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Hanging baskets are the perfect way to make the most of your space and add dimension, texture, and color to your yard, porch, or balcony. Here are some of our favorites annual hanging baskets for both sun and shade! Hanging Baskets for Sun GERANIUM A summertime staple, geraniums are versatile and heat tolerant. They have a mounding or semi-trailing habit and are available in a variety of colors. Their preferred location is morning sun and some afternoon shade - they can also thrive in full sun as long as you don't let them fully dry out. To encourage new, full blooms all summer, feed every 10-14 days and deadhead spent blooms. DRAGONWING BEGONIAS The number of begonia varieties out there is truly astounding. One of our favorite full-sun to part shade varieties is Dragonwing Begonia. One of the most popular plants for porch pots and combos, this plant also does great in a hanging basket. With blooms that will flower from spring through frost, and large glossy leaves, it’s no wonder this is a timeless classic. Dragonwing begonias are heat tolerant, can handle a few skipped days of watering, have a nice branching habit, and require no pruning or dead heading. Available in pink or red. Note: we recommend that with all begonias, you avoid watering them in the heat of the day - water on the leaves can cause sun scorch (we water ours before 10am at the greenhouse). GIANT WAX BEGONIA - BRONZE LEAF OR GREEN LEAF Another favorite begonia, the Giant Wax Begonia, is a hybrid cross between wax and angel wing begonias. It's vigorous, bushy, and heavy-blooming. With a tidier upright habit, it makes for a fabulous 'thriller' component to a combo pot as well as making a full basket on its own. It appreciates full to partial sun and evenly moist soil, and will bloom spring through fall. Big color, big size, big impact! SCAEVOLA (FAN FLOWER) The beautiful trailing habit and abundant fan-shaped flowers of this unique plant are sure to intrigue you and your guests all summer long. Sometimes know as the 'Fairy Fan Flower' this annual will live up to its name as it spills over the side of your hanging basket. In a hot and humid climate this annual will offer blooms from early spring until first frost. Its thick stems provide an extra layer of drought tolerance making it a perfect choice for hanging baskets, which tend to dry out quicker than pots. It does not need to be pinched back, requires little in the way of fertilizing, and can bounce back from a few skipped days of watering (though it will be healthiest if watered daily in full sun spots). PETUNIAS Petunias are a timeless garden favorite, offering big impact with bright blooms in a limitless array of colors from early spring to first frost. While petunias can tolerate part sun they give off their best show in full sun with regular fertilizer. We are continually adding new cultivars to our program each year featuring a range of colors, flower sizes and habits. No variety of petunia is maintenance-free, but some do bloom better if regularly deadheaded. You can typically tell by looking at a petunia basket if it's one that will need more regular cleanup, but most petunias grown and sold today will continue to bloom regardless of deadheading. We do recommend daily watering (sometimes twice daily when hot or windy), and many petunias benefit from being pruned back when they get leggy in the heat of summer--they'll then send out fresh new growth and blooms. CALIBRACHOA (MILLION BELLS) Also known as Million Bells, Calibrachoa is a full-sun annual with a gorgeous mounding and trailing growth habit available in single or double blooming and a multitude of solid, bicolor, and ombre shades. The blooms are similar to that of its cousin, the petunia, but miniature! And what its flowers lack in size they make up for in abundance. These bright blooms also attract hummingbirds and butterflies to your front porch or garden. Like the petunia, million bells enjoy full sun to part sun, but you’ll get the most blooms in 6+ hours of full sun. Calibrachoa's flowers will go strong through the heat of summer and it does not require deadheading to look tidy or keep blooming, but it does need regular fertilizing. Keep their soil lightly moist and avoid consistently wet soil, but don't allow to fully dry out (on super hot and/or windy days, you may have to water twice). PORTULACA (MOSS ROSES) This annual flowering succulent offers some of the brightest blooms in an array of pinks, oranges, and yellows and is a great choice for someone who prefers low maintenance plants. Its flowers open and close with the sun, so be sure to keep this plant in a full sun spot to enjoy the bright pops of color that emerge anew every morning. Because it is a succulent, this plant can tolerate high heat, drought conditions, and requires less frequent watering than other annuals on this list. This low maintenance plant only requires water when the top 1/2-1" is completely dry. LANTANA Lantana is a profusely flowering plant that will provide a long-lasting show of color. Plus this beauty is a tried-and-true butterfly favorite! Versatile and easy to grow, it requires full sun (6+ hours per day) and is quite tolerant of hot and dry conditions which makes it an excellent choice for a hanging basket. Deadhead spent flowers regularly to promote new blooms, and if plants become leggy by midsummer, cut back by up to one-third. LOBELIA There truly is no blue more vibrant in the flower world than lobelia! While it's often thought to be difficult, the combination of a good cultivar (we've got you covered) and the right light and watering results in an easy-care basket with stunning blooms all season. We recommend 4-6 hours of morning sun or part shade (avoid prolonged afternoon sun), and keeping the soil lightly moist. Regular feed helps too as it does all blooming baskets. These beauties attract butterflies as well as humans! Hanging Baskets for Shade SWEDISH IVY Purple Swedish Ivy and Variegated Swedish Ivy Popular as a houseplant for years, Swedish Ivy grows well as an annual hanging basket for shady or partially shady spaces. The variegated variety has bicolored foliage, and the purple has glossy green leaves with rich purple undersides. You may find other variations in color as well but these are our favorite for growth habit. They also make great spillers for container combinations. Both purple and variegated have textured and fragrant foliage (some find the scent very strong) with small tubular blooms in optimal conditions. Swedish Ivy is easy to grow, heat tolerant, and nontoxic to pets and humans. TORENIA Torenia, also known as Wishbone Flower, is a unique alternative to New Guinea Impatiens for shadier spots where you want bright blooms. Part shade or morning sun is best. The colorful tubular flowers are beloved by hummingbirds, butterflies and moths (much like the following Streptocarpella). Choose from rich bi-colored blooms in blues, purples and yellows, and enjoy summer-long color with minimal deadheading need. If plants become leggy by midsummer, cut back by up to one-third and they will quickly flush back out. Note: torenia is not a fan of high humidity--it tends to get very pitiful looking in our main greenhouse, but as soon as it's outside with good air flow, it's much happier! STREPTOCARPELLA (FALSE AFRICAN VIOLET) Streptocarpella, also known as a False African Violet, or Nodding Violet, has airy, dainty blooms all season and is loved by hummingbirds and Painter's staff alike! Choose from lilac-blue or white. Streptocarpella is a beautiful, easy-care choice for part shade, filtered sun, or bright indirect light. It's also a great filler with other plants in shady combination pots or baskets. Direct hot sun, cold nights, and even cold water can cause burn on the delicate foliage so wait to put out until it's consistently above 60 degrees day and night. Then after the summer season is over, move it indoors to bright indirect light for a happy houseplant! TUBEROUS BEGONIA There are so many varieties of begonias! Fragrant Falls, Waterfall, Nonstop and many other varieties fall into the group of Tuberous Begonias. Some have large, layered, rose-like blooms and mounding habits, while others have smaller cascading blooms and more open habits--and they come in a range of bloom and leaf colors. They are another popular basket for attracting hummingbirds, and for some reason seem to be a favorite nesting site for wrens! They are a bit particular about their growing conditions--dappled sun, and bright indirect light or a touch of morning sun is best, and like Torenia, avoid letting them sit wet and avoid overcrowding them. Once you find a spot they like, you'll be hard pressed to plant anything else! TRADESCANTIA (WANDERING JEWEL) There are almost as many names as there are varieties of this shade-loving plant. Tradescantia, also commonly known as Wandering Jew, Wandering Dude, and Wandering Jewel among others, is grown as a trailing annual or houseplant. It appreciates lightly moist soil and part shade (morning sun is fine). Darker-leafed varieties can tolerate more sun and can often be grown in full sun if gradually adapted. Pinching back and pruning encourages bushier growth, or you can let them go and watch them reach 3-4' in length by fall! It's the perfect patio plant as it can be overwintered indoors to be enjoyed year after year! We've become known for our massive tradescantia baskets along with our giant ferns, and we try new varieties every chance we get! FUCHSIA Gorgeous, eye-catching blooms brighten up shady spots all season long. And with their bright colors and draping blooms, they are adored by hummingbirds! These plants thrives in consistently moist soil so keep them watered. And they bloom best with regular deadheading and feeding every couple weeks or so. CHINESE LANTERN Aka trailing abutilon or Brazilian bellflower. It can trail up to 6 feet!! The bright red-yellow drooping 'lanterns' bloom all season long, to the delight of butterflies, hummingbirds, and people alike. This plant thrives in rich, evenly moist, well-drained soil and it can handle a bit more sun, but appreciates shade. Plus, it's always a bonus when you can bring it indoors to overwinter (in bright indirect light)! NEW GUINEA IMPATIENS (INCLUDING SUNPATIENS) These hybrid impatiens enjoy part shade, and make a cheery addition to a shady porch. New Guinea impatiens are perfect for someone who likes a tidier look as they do not trail but have a nice upright, mounded habit and will fill out a basket beautifully from spring through autumn. Available at Painters in a variety of colors, you can also consider pairing them with trailing plants like Dichondra Silver Falls or Sweet Potato Vine if you do want to add some spilling plants to your basket. These easy-to-grow plants are low maintenance and require moderate watering. They do appreciate a liquid feed every two weeks or so to continue blooming prolifically. TROPICAL FERNS: BOSTON, MACHO, AND KIMBERLEY QUEEN FERNS And of course, our absolute favorites for shade, and what Painters is known for: FERNS! Read all about choosing your favorite or the best fit for your space in our Blog: Which Tropical Fern is Right for Me? Updated from the 2022 Blog: Hanging Baskets for Sun

Summertime evenings are some of the most cherished in my mind. The work is done; the heat is waning; and the fireflies are starting to glimmer at the edges of the yard. I've turned on my own twinkling solar lights if the moon is not full and poured a cold drink. And now is when I reap the second shift of beauty in my garden. Now is when the moon garden--the night garden--shines! For those who plan them, evening gardens are a pure secret delight. And what a treat to unwind in this remarkable space. Often referred to as Moon Gardens, they are all about using darkness and reflecting light. Some even call them White Gardens for the white blooms that reflect the moonlit night. Whether you are looking to create an entirely monochromatic artful oasis or just adding some features for cooling, shaping, or adding texture to your evening backyard, read on for a few tips, a few photos, and some suggestions to get you started! White Blooms! Whether you choose some sharp annuals for the edging or a big pop of white in a perennial filler, white flowers can glow gloriously once they catch the moonlight or lighting we place in our garden. And there are so many to choose from! Annual Vinca Impatiens Zinnias Fan Flower White Petunias White-blooming Wax Begonias (Bonus: their glossy leaves are extra reflective!) White Bleeding Heart Hydrangeas White-blooming Hibiscus Garden Phlox 'David' Woodland Phlox 'May Breeze' Anemone (spring and fall blooming) White-blooming Lilies (Painters favorite: Casa Blanca Lily) White Liatris 'Alba' (Great for the back of the garden!) White-blooming Hollyhock Bear's Breeches Shasta Daisy Miss Bateman Clematis White Iris 'Immortality' (limited stock 2024) Whorled, Common, and White-blooming Swamp Milkweeds (They glow and attract nighttime pollinators!) White-Silver Foliage Greys and silvers can soften white flowers and help them blend rather than stand out. They are also fabulous in their own right! Adding a silvery element to a moonlit corner is a centerpiece of its own merit. Artemisia 'Silver Mound' or Powis Castle' Curry plants, Helichrysum Dusty Miller Dichondra 'Silver Falls' Japanese Painted Fern 'Godzilla' Big Bluestem (native, tall and silvery) Brunnera Sea Holly Lamb's Ear 'Silver Carpet' Rose Campion Lamium 'White Nancy' Mountain Mints Balkan Yarrow And remember that not all whites are the same. Cool whites are different than creamy whites. Some might pair better with silver foliage, some with warmer green hues. Play around until you get the color combinations you prefer! Dynamic Shapes and Leaf Variegation When you remove petal color from the equation, the eye can focus on the contrasts. Simple plant variegation becomes a star! Or contrast can be found in the shape of the plant habits--bending/waving, straight upright, or spilling elements. Play around with adding contrast: Caladium Variegated Carex (i.e. Japanese Forest Grass 'Aureola' or Variegated Sedge 'Everest') Jacob's Ladder 'Stairway to Heaven' Purple Fountain Grass 'Fireworks' Dappled Willow Northern Sea Oats Glitz Euphorbia (semi-spilling) Creeping Baby's Breath Scent Evening gardens are famous for using scent to add to our sensory palate. Scented geraniums could be placed along paths where you might brush against the foliage or try some of these favorites for end-of-day fragrance: Moonflower (The scent attracts night pollinators!) Peppermint Scented Geranium (also reflective!) Jasmine 'Fiona Sunrise' (Its bright chartreuse foliage could also be great contrast) White Fringe Tree Cherry Laurel 'Otto Luyken' (or other strongly floral scents) End-of-day Blooming The penultimate Moon Garden plant is one that will either open in the evening or hold their blooms open through the night. Four O'Clocks Evening Primrose Moonflower (scent will attract night pollinators) Elements of Dark Don't forget the backdrop! Bring bright elements forward by adding thoughtfully placed segments of dark contrast: Ornamental Rice 'Black Madras' Fountain Grass 'First Knight' Taro 'Black Coral' (reflective!) Ninebark 'Red Baron' Any dark Heuchera (i.e. 'Black Forest Cake') Hardscaping As in any garden, you can add a lot with some key elements of hardscaping. For nighttime use, think peripheral lighting, some seating, and clearly marked pathways. Stepping stones are key for passage! But it doesn't just have to be utility; my close friend built a gorgeous stepping-stone labyrinth in her yard to add a quiet activity in the winding down hours. As with so many garden designs, let your own taste and your own creativity lead! And if you have already created your Moon Garden refuge, send us your favorite night garden photos... we love to be inspired by you! If you are interested in learning more about night pollinators, check out the Moth Night event at Painters on July 26th, 2024 from 8:00-11:00. Join us for a lecture and collection demonstration with a professional moth light.

We really ARE making a difference! Keep making backyard pollinator gardens, keep planting milkweed, and keep adding ponds and rain gardens! Each one is contributing to restoration success - ecologist Doug Tallamy recently highlighted several amazing studies showing just how important it is to add beneficial plants and water sources to your home gardens. We all knew it was important, but it’s incredibly encouraging to learn that scientists (and citizen science data) are showing that our backyard oases are indeed making a difference in biodiversity. Very promising news showing how important our pollinator gardens are to monarch populations! Keep up the native plantings, and petition your community leaders to stop spraying and misting for mosquitos, and to change white street lights to yellow bulbs to minimize stress to pollinators. When we increase our natives, especially shrubs and trees, then we not only support pollinators, but also those who rely on them for food! And of course, creating small ponds and water features (without chemicals or invasive plants), is another critical part of supporting our ecosystem - plus you get the benefit of added beauty and adorable residents! There has been some concern amongst conservation biologists that creating butterfly gardens or water features in backyards, in particular in cities and suburban environments with minimal natural habitat nearby, could cause ecological traps . Analysis by Jesus Zuniga Palacios and colleagues of almost 40 studies and 15 countries indicates that urban habitats are not creating ecological traps for most species studied, but we of course need to fight for more supportive environments in developed areas so that the creatures we are attracting and supporting in our backyards aren’t then harmed by issues such as light pollution or mosquito/pest treatments. If you aren't familiar with the nonprofit Homegrown National Park, founded by Doug Tallamy and Michelle Alfandari, check out their website for more information and for great guides and tips. The mission of HNP is “to regenerate biodiversity because all humans need healthy, productive ecosystems to survive.” The HNP “raises awareness and urgently inspires everyone to address the biodiversity crisis by adding native plants and removing invasive ones where we live, work, learn, pray, and play.” Make sure to get on their biodiversity map - a fantastic interactive tool for the community to see the total area of the U.S. and Canada occupied by native plants! T he more data we have the more we can learn about the difference we are making!

The Cecropia Moth is perhaps one of the most visually magnificent of our native species, but is not in fact a pollinator as the adults do not have mouthparts. Help celebrate National Moth Week!  This week, folks from all over the world are participating in a global citizen science project, taking photos of moths they attract or find, and   sharing their pictures with conservation organizations . The Owen family has always been moth appreciators and are thrilled to see them getting more media exposure for their importance not only as bioindicators but as critical pollinators ( see Brad's Pollinator Week blog ). Moths account for over 90% of the Lepidoptera class (12,000 moth species versus 825 butterfly species in North America!), and we've learned that moths pollinate at a faster rate than day-flying insects. They also work harder to get to nectar, visiting many plants that day-flying pollinators ignore. In addition to pollinating lesser-visited plants, they also feed from many of the same species that butterflies, bees and other daytime pollinators visit; this overlap in pollination could be critical at a time when we are observing major declines in pollinator populations. When we consider the massive population of moths combined with their speedy pollination skills and diverse plant selection, that’s quite the argument for planting to attract and feed moths! We often think of pollinator gardens as full of nectar-producing, colorful blooms covered in butterflies, bees, and other pollinating insects. But in order for pollinating insects to get to the life stage where they can do that essential job in our gardens and native habitats, they have to have something to eat when young! Host plants are those you plant for moths, butterflies, and other insect pollinators to lay their eggs on, and they then provide food for the larval/caterpillar life stage. Host plants are essential in supporting a diversity of moths and butterflies, and even indirectly, birds–a baby bird can eat over 500 caterpillars in one day. Conveniently, many host plants offer food for caterpillars as well as food for adult pollinators - in addition to providing beauty in your landscape. It can sometimes be challenging as an environmentally conscientious gardener to be willing to share with wildlife and let go of a need for plant perfection. Many of us plant native berry and seed producing plants to support migrating birds, and we then have the dual benefit of providing them food as well as getting to enjoy birdwatching. When gardening to support moths, the reward is not as obvious - we rarely witness the adults feeding and pollinating under cover of darkness, and their young often leave their host plant's leaves full of holes (some thank you!). Rest assured that much of the hungry, hungry caterpillar damage is covered with new foliage after they've had their fill, and when you plant a full, diverse garden, you barely notice. Please never spray your plants when you see them getting munched on - while it may sometimes be a Japanese Beetle or other invasive insect causing damage (look for pheromone traps for specific species), even organic-safe treatments will kill all insects feeding from the leaves and blooms - including the ones you are trying to attract! Holes in your native plant leaves is a good thing, it just takes some mental adjustment and acceptance of imperfection in our landscape. The host plants that make the biggest impact are native trees, but many shrubs, grasses and perennials are also vital (and easier to fit in smaller yards). Note that if planting in the heat of summer (during Moth Week), you may want to wait on shrubs and trees till fall as they require more water and can therefore be more challenging to keep happy during times of drought or extreme heat. Check out this list of favorite native plants for supporting WNC moths, including both host plants and nectar-producing plants.  For a much more extensive list of plants for moths, we highly recommend the book  Gardening for Moths . White or Red Oak, Quercus alba or Quercus rubra Zone 4-8 50-80’ tall & wide Full Sun Dry to medium water, good drainage ideal but can handle a range of soils Oaks are incredible host plants – providing food to over 550 species of moths and butterflies (including the below Rosy Maple)! Oaks provide beautiful fall color and serve as excellent shade trees once mature (which can take a bit, so be patient!). Acorns are an essential food for a variety of bird and mammal species. The Rosy Maple Moth is an adorable, vibrantly colored favorite - look at that fuzzy head! River Birch, Betula nigra Zone 4-9 40-70’ tall & 40-60’ wide Full sun to part shade Medium to wet soil (great for rain gardens & streamline restoration) River Birch hosts almost 320 species of moths and butterflies (including the infamous Luna Moth)! It grows relatively fast, so can be a faster way to add shade and height to your landscape. The attractive bark, growth habit, silvery leaves, and pretty blooms make it ornamental as well as beneficial. The famous Luna Moth. Photo Credit: Painters staff member, Betsy The Imperial Moth is a gorgeous, uniquely colored large moth! Photo Credit: Painters staff member, Betsy Witch Hazel, Hamamelis Vernalis or Hamamelis Virginiana Zone 4-8 H vernalis = 6-10’ tall & 8-15’ wide, H virginiana = 15-20’ tall & wide Full sun to part shade Hamamelis vernalis likes moister soils (great for rain gardens), while Hamamelis virginiana prefers lightly moist but well drained soils A great larval host plant as well as nectar source for over 60 species of moths (including the below Friendly Probole), Witch Hazel also serves as a nesting site and provides seed to several bird species. Various parts of the plant have been used for a range of medicinal purposes by Native Americans as well as modern commercial uses. It’s also beautiful – the yellow or orange, feathery, fragrant blooms cover the branches in late fall to early winter (Common Witch Hazel), or late winter to early spring (Ozark Witch Hazel & many cultivars). The Friendly Probole is a dainty moth with lovely scalloped wings and detailed patterning. Swamp Rose Mallow, Hibiscus moscheutos Zone 5-9 3-7’ tall & 2-4’ wide Full sun Medium to wet soil (great for rain gardens) Blooms July - September This native hibiscus supports 28 species of moths and butterflies. Easy to grow in a range of soils as long as it isn’t allowed to dry out completely. Blooms best in full sun, featuring large showy flowers in shades of white to pink (and cultivars include blooms in rich reds, ombres and deeply contrasting throats). Blooms are also critical for bees, hummingbirds, orioles and more. The Delightful Bird Dropping Moth definitely fits its name! Secretive & hard to spot, Rose Mallow is a host plant. Photo Credit: Jim Brighton Pussy Willow, Salix discolor Zone 4-8 Height 6-15’ & Spread 4-12’ Full sun to part shade Medium to wet soils (great for rain gardens & streamline restoration) Blooms March-April Pussy Willow hosts 18 butterflies and moths. It’s also a lovely ornamental shrub, and can be pruned to more of a bushy shape if desired. The catkins, which look like fuzzy kitty toes and make cut flowers, produce an abundance of pollen appreciated by early foraging bees, Lepidoptera and other pollinators, while the foliage creates a dense cover that serves as nesting sites for a variety of birds. Varied parts of the plant have been used for centuries for medicinal purposes as well as weaving and wickerwork. An Io moth - famous for it's massive eyespots. Pussy Willow is one of its many host plants. Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis Zones 5-9 Height 5-12’ & 4-8’ spread Full sun to part shade Moist to fully wet soil Blooms June A Snowberry Clearwing Moth enjoying the nectar of the Buttonbush bloom. Great for wet areas, placed prone to flooding, rain gardens etc. In June, they’re covered in spherical, fragrant white blooms resembling ornaments, which will be as covered with butterflies, hummingbirds, bees and other pollinators during daylight hours as they will be with moths at night. A fabulous ornamental for naturalizing, preventing erosion, or creating a rain garden , with many wildlife benefits. Buttonbush is a host plant to over 25 species of Lepidoptera, including several sphinx moths. The lovely Hydrangea Sphinx - Buttonbush is a host plant to it along with (gasp!) hydrangeas. Photo credit: Moths of North Carolina Highbush Blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum Zone 5-8 Height 6-12’ & spread 8-12’ Full sun to part shade Consistently moist soil w/good drainage & acidic pH is ideal Blooms May, Fruits Summer Native highbush blueberries host 223 species of Lepidoptera (including beautiful, giant silk moths), and the nectar supports many bee species as well. The berries are critical food for native and migrating birds, bears, and mammals, and in our diet offer many medicinal benefits in addition to being delicious. Blueberries offer lovely blooms in spring and fall color in addition to the berries; they can be used as hedges or incorporated into an ornamental landscape for both beauty and ecological benefit. The Polyphemus, a large, showy Silk Moth with giant eye spots to deter predators. Blueberries are one of many of its host plants. Joe Pye Weed, Eutrochium sp. Zone 4-8 NATIVE perennial 4-7' tall, 3-4' wide Full sun Purply blooms summer to fall; thrives in moist, fertile soil, great height for wet spaces Deer and rabbit resistant Joe Pye is a host plant for more than forty species of moth and butterfly caterpillars, including the Clymene Moth, Three-lined Flower Moth, Ruby Tiger Moth, and the Great Tiger Moth.  Just like any host plant, you can expect some leaf damage, but know that on healthy plants, the damage will soon be hidden by new foliage and you can feel great about the mature moth or butterfly that will be sipping on the nectar of the Joe Pye come late summer and fall! Joe Pye is also an excellent source of nectar for a huge diversity of pollinators - you can't have a butterfly and moth garden without Joe Pye!! The Clymene Moth's austere black and white upper wings hide bright orange-yellow underwings. Aromatic or Smooth Aster, Symphyotrichum oblongifolium Zone 3-8 Height 1-3’ & spread 1-3’ Full sun to part shade Dry to medium soil moisture Blooms August – September This aster is host to dozens of Lepidoptera as well as many bee species. Blooming in early fall, it is an important nectar source for a wide range of pollinators during a period when many other plants are fading. Aromatic aster is a tough native plant that can tolerate a range of conditions. It is often used in ornamental landscaping as a taller border and is a popular flower for wildlife habitat restoration. The lovely daisy-like blooms are a rich purple-blue, and the foliage is fragrant, making a great cut flower. If you want the wildlife benefits but a less rangy growth habit, there are many lovely nativars with more compact habits. The Wavy Lined Emerald Moth - small, delicate, and stunning coloration. Asters are one of many host plants. Showy Goldenrod (and most Solidago), Solidago speciosa Zone 3-8 Height 2-3’ & spread 2-3 Dry to medium soil moisture Blooms July – September Goldenrod is a host plant to over 120 species of Lepidoptera, provides nectar to a range of pollinators including many long and short tongued bees, and the seeds are excellent food for a variety of songbirds. Like asters, it is commonly used in wildlife habitat restoration. Depending on the species, it may bloom anywhere from mid summer to mid fall, and will produce more blooms if deadheaded. The showy, gold blooms will attract and support butterflies galore as well as supporting many moths. The False Crocus Geometer - a small, delicate moth with unique patterning. Goldenrod is one of several host plants. Little Bluestem, Schizachyrium scoparium Zone 3-9 Hieght 2-4’ and spread 1.5-2’ Full sun Dry to medium soil moisture Seed heads/blooms August – Winter Up to 50 moth species will feed and house in Bluestem and other native prairie grasses. Very ornamental, with a variety of colors within one clump of grass and airy seed heads. A great medium to taller border. Good in rain gardens but can also be drought tolerant once established and overall tolerates a range of conditions. Great support for bees, pollinators and birds alike both providing food and housing. The Large Yellow Underwing - very camouflaged until it flashes the bright mustard lower wings. Little Bluestem is a host plant to the yellow underwing as well as many skipper species (Fun fact: skippers are a sort of intermediate species between moths and butterflies). Additional herbaceous perennials that also serve as great host or nectar plants include: Bee Balm, Milkweed, Coreopsis, Mountain Mint, Helenium, Coral Honeysuckle, Ironweed, Sedum telephium, Northern Sea Oats, Rudbeckias & Echinaceas Charismatic Megafauna Champions! What's funny about moths is that many of the showiest adults are not pollinators (several pictured above don't have mouthparts) - we like to see this as nature's little lesson in seeing beyond beauty. Of course, even if the adult moths aren't pollinators, their caterpillar young are essential to the food web - one baby bird can eat upwards of 500 caterpillars a day! Charismatic megafauna is a term used to describe animals that are deemed more attractive and appealing to the general public - they are often essential to conservation organizations when advertising and fundraising. For instance, the giant, fuzzy-headed, vibrantly orange Royal Walnut Moth (who isn't able to pollinate and is only interested in mating) is much more likely to garner interest than a small, grey-brown Grieving Woodling Moth (obviously sad because nobody knows how hard it pollinates!). That said, we have to close with one of our favorite charismatic non-pollinating species - they can't help it they're beautiful! The Hickory Horned Devil Caterpillar (Host plants include Ash, Walnut, Sumac, Sweetgum and Persimmon trees ) And the adult form - the Royal Walnut Moth (which has nonfunctioning mouthparts). Photo credit: Painters staff member Betsy Plant a diversity of host and nectar plants and you can attract and support a wide range of moths, including those that act as critical pollinators as well as those that act as food for other wildlife and food for our souls! Sources ‘Gardening for Moths – A regional guide’ . Jim McCormac & Chelsea Gottfried ‘Moths are more efficient pollinators than bees, shows new research’ https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2023/03/230330102153.htm ‘ Moths do the pollinator night shift – and they work harder than daytime insects’ https://theconversation.com/moths-do-the-pollinator-night-shift-and-they-work-harder-than-daytime-insects-138472 ‘How moths keep our world blooming, pollinating in the night’ https://www.oneearth.org/how-moths-keep-our-world-blooming-pollinating-in-the-night/#:~:text=Overall%2C%20moths%20interact%20with%2047,as%20a%20natural%20biodiversity%20backup .

The best time of year to plant trees and shrubs is fall, and this includes your fruit bearing trees and shrubs! As we enter the fall season, the more moderate temperatures, increased chances of rainfall, and less intense sunlight reduce transplanting stress and allows trees and shrubs to focus their energy on root development. The cool air and warm soil stimulate root growth and can help your trees and shrubs become established in the landscape before the ground freezes. Fall planting gives you an extra growing season before the stresses of summer heat. We love planting perennial edibles - nothing feels better than harvesting food you've grown, and planting edible shrubs and trees is an investment not just for ourselves, but for future generations. Plus, you're not just feeding yourself, you're feeding wildlife (sometimes more than you'd like)! In addition to the fruits highlighted below, we also sell a range of native plants that produce fruits which can be enjoyed by humans and wildlife alike - they just may require more processing to be eaten. Fruits from elderberries, serviceberries, American Cranberry, chokeberries, hazelnuts, sumac, dogwoods, and more can be used for preserves, syrups, flour, and seasonings in addition to providing critical food sources for migrating birds and other wildlife. We encourage you to consider adding some of them as well, and if you have a lot of space, it's always a good plan to plant extras of any fruits you are hoping to harvest - that way there's still some left for you after the birds and bears! ( Note: ALWAYS research edibility of fruits before ingesting - some can only be digested after cooking, and it's always wise to start small in case of individual sensitivities).  Planning a small orchard can be overwhelming, with researching specific varieties that produce best in Western North Carolina while also trying to match pollinating pairs for those fruit-bearing plants that need a different partner. We’ll help with some of the research so it allows you more time to prepare and plant your fruits this fall!   BLUEBERRIES You’ll find that most of the information provided in this post will focus on blueberries – they’re a favorite among staff here at Painters. These fruiting bushes are native to North Carolina and are relatively easy to maintain once planted. Even the smallest yard can find space for a couple blueberry bushes. I’ve seen them intermixed with other shrubs in formal landscapes since they provide ornamental value (fall leaf color and pretty blooms beloved by bees), while also keeping the fruit closer to the house for ease of harvesting. Planting Site:  Blueberries have a very shallow, fibrous root system, and knowing this will help set you up for planting success. Since 90% of blueberry’s root system in is the first 6” of soil, you’ll need to provide very loose soil to help the shrub develop an extensive root system. Blueberry bushes cannot tolerate extended periods of standing water. The soil at the planting site needs to be well-draining, with organic matter mixed into the top 6” of the planting site. If your planting site is heavy clay it may be best to install raised beds. Plant blueberries on mounds or on ridged rows to help with drainage. Apply pine mulch (needles, woodchips, bark) at the time of planting to not only protect the shallow root system and to conserve moisture during high temperatures, but to also contribute to the acidity of the soil. Apply mulch 3-5” deep around the base of the bush, making sure to leave 3” around the trunk clear from mulch to prevent insect, disease and pest problems.  Blueberries prefer full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight). Partial shade can be tolerated (preferably in the afternoon), but may cause plants to produce fewer blossoms and less fruit. Space the bushes appropriately by taking note of the mature width of the varieties you plant. Leave enough space between the bushes so adequate air flow and sunlight can be attained at full size.  Most blueberries need a pollinating partner of a different variety within the same species.  Take a look at the below pollination chart to help match blueberry partners. Even the ones that are “self-fruitful” would benefit from another blueberry planted nearby - they’ll often bear more fruit with the presence of a neighbor. Note: not all blueberries on the chart are currently in stock; the chart includes varieties sold at our greenhouse over the last couple years to help customers match pollinating pairs to existing ones they may have in their landscape. There are three types of blueberries: Rabbiteye, Northern Highbush, and a hybrid of the two – Southern Highbush. Rabbiteye (Vaccinium ashei) – The name comes from the rabbit-eye appearance of the pink, immature berries. These blueberries are native to the southeast US gulf coast states. Rabbiteyes are well-suited to warm climates and can tolerate heat, humidity, drought, and a wider variety of soils than Northern Highbush. These bushes are vigorous growers, and some can reach up to 15-20’ tall! Rabbiteyes bloom earlier and take longer to ripen. The fruit itself is larger with mild/moderate flavor and described as sweet. Rabbiteyes have slightly tougher skin, but this provides better storage life.  Rabbiteye varieties currently in stock at Painters Greenhouse: Premier, Climax, Pink Lemonade, and Florida Rose. Northern Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) – Native range includes northeastern US and parts of Canada. The first cultivars were first selected from the wild in NJ, they are well-adapted to colder climates and are the best species for WNC residents in the mountains and at higher elevations (>2500ft). These cultivars often do not grow as well in the piedmont or coastal plains of NC due to the soils and mild winters. Northern Highbush blueberries require a certain number of chill hours during the winter to set fruit properly. These blueberries are the most common and widely cultivated blueberry type in the US. Moderate growers reach 6-10’ tall. Fruits have a sweet-tart flavor.  Northern Highbush varieties currently in stock at Painters Greenhouse: Chandler, Duke, Elliott, Jersey, Patriot, and Sweetheart. Southern Highbush (Vaccinium hybrid) – A hybrid of Rabbiteye and North Highbush, this type of blueberry bush combines characteristics of each to allow a more adaptable bush. The hybridization creates a shorter ripening period (from Northern Highbush) and the low chill hours and adaptability to southern environments (from Rabbiteye). Be mindful of the earlier bloom time on this hybrid, if our area has a spring freeze some crop loss may be experienced with Southern Highbush. Southern Highbush tend to be more compact ranging from 3-6’ in height depending on the variety. Fruit is balanced in sweet and tangy, similar to that of Northern Highbush.  Southern Highbush varieties currently in stock at Painters Greenhouse: Jewel. FRUIT-BEARING TREES: Apples, Pears, Cherries, Plums, Peaches Painters Fall 2025 offerings: * Asterisk denotes the fruit-bearing trees that need two different varieties to produce fruit.  *Apples: Arkansas Black, Red Delicious, Fuji, Gala, Honeycrisp, McIntosh, Mutsu, Pink Lady, Wolf River, Apples: Granny Smith *Asian Pears: Shinko, Shinseiki, Olympic Giant European Pears: Kieffer, Moonglow Cherries: Nanking (needs two Nankings to pollinate) Plums: Methley, Greengage, Stanley, Ozark American Plum, Chickasaw Plum Peaches:  Contender, Elberta  Nectarine:  Flavortop  Crabapples:  Dolgo, Robinson, Prairifire, Sargent. Since crabapples have a long bloom period they can pollinate most cultivars of apples. This comes in handy if you have an existing unknown apple variety that needs a pollinator. All the above cultivars of fruit-bearing trees are grafted on semi-dwarf root stock and are sourced from McMinnville, TN from Thomas Nursery or Lowe's Nursery of Morganton. All perform well in our area as they are grown in a similar climate. Consult the pollination chart below when matching pollinating pairs of apples as they are the pickiest in pollination requirements. The chart also notes if pairs are needed for the other types of fruiting trees (cherries, plums, peaches, pears, etc.). Like blueberries, fruit trees also prefer well-draining soil (no standing water) and a sunny location (6+ hours of sunlight). When planning a small orchard, it’s imperative to space out your fruit trees with their mature size in mind. Air flow and sunlight are important to the health of an orchard. Mulching wide rings around the base of fruit trees will help conserve water, eliminate weed (and lawn) pressure, and help control lawn mower/weed eater damage.  Because we offer such a wide range of fruit-bearing trees, please consult the NC State Extension Gardener Handbook chapter on ‘Tree Fruit and Nuts” for specifics of each variety of fruit tree when it comes to pruning, fertilizing, pest/disease management, etc.:  https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/15-tree-fruit-and-nuts Here’s a list of other fruit or nut bearing plants we also have available this fall season:  *Note all are self-fertile, except for varieties with an asterisk. Figs:  Brown Turkey, Chicago Hardy, Celeste, Fignomenal *Pawpaw   We carry seed grown pawpaws (not grafted), two pawpaws from different lineages are needed for pollination. Chokeberry ‘Viking’ Raspberry:  Glencoe Blackberry: Big Daddy, Galaxy, Osage, Sweetie Pie, Celestial American Elderberry   Sambucus canadensis *American Persimmon   Diospyros virginiana Sometimes self-fertile, but usually dioecious; plant two or more for best chance of fruit production *Hazelnut  Corylus americana not self-fertile, recommended to plant 3 or more Grape: Canadice Muscadine Grape: Cowart, Southern Home *Dunstan Hybrid Chestnut   Castanea dentata x mollissima not self-fertile, recommended to plant 2 or more Mulberry ‘Illinois Everbearing’ Kiwi ‘Prolific’

The key building blocks for a wildlife garden. Many of us are familiar with native plants and are taking steps to add more to our gardens. Some of you may be new to planting with pollinators and wildlife in mind, some of you may have been doing it for years. It can be overwhelming when diving into a new garden space, or feeling pressure to 'edit' your existing one to be more wildlife conscious – there are SO many beautiful and beneficial native plants out there... how do you even know where to start?! That's where keystone plants come in! So, what is a keystone? The term keystone comes from architecture – the keystone in a bridge is the final stone to get placed in the center of a bridge arch and is the most important stone in the structure. As each stone in the curve leans/presses on one another, they are then locked into place by the final keystone piece – without that keystone, the entire arch would collapse.  Keystone image source Wikipedia A 'keystone plant' was coined by ecologist Robert Paine in the 1960's. Keystone plants are native species that generate a network of beneficial relationships, providing critical sources of food and/or shelter for a large number of other species. Keystones help stabilize their ecosystem and have a large effect on the diversity of other species–many insects, birds and even mammals depend on these keystone species, some relying on them to complete their lifecycles. If you remove keystone plants from an ecosystem, it can cause a major shift or even collapse of the ecosystem. You can have a garden full of native plants, but if you don’t have keystone species included (or close by), your garden habitat will be not be performing to its fullest potential. Only 14% of our native plants (keystones) are responsible for the vast majority of our wildlife--without keystone plants in the landscape, butterflies, native bees, and birds will not flourish. Large trees have the biggest impact If you have the space, keystone trees are going to have the largest impact by FAR. Think size if nothing else–that's a lot of foliage (and habitat)! But also, some species are simply better food, and support a much larger number of caterpillars and native bees–the white oak tree is a host plant to 436 species of moths and butterflies ! Planting one or more of these will have the biggest impact, and you're truly planting (and planning) for a better future when you do so. White Oak (above left), River Birch (center), and Basswood (right) are known to be excellent keystone trees for our area.   Oaks - host to 488 caterpillar species in the SE There is no question that planting an oak tree is saving (and fostering) MANY lives! If you're worried about them blowing over, plant in a group of 3 so the roots hold each other up (Judy West references this in her excellent presentation , quoting Doug Tallamy). You can find both Red and White Oak at Painters this fall–both grow into beautiful shade trees and provide lovely fall color. Birches - host 299 caterpillar species We have River Birch this fall, and highly recommend them not only as keystone plants but for streamline restoration and erosion control in moist or poorly drained areas. The bark is extremely shaggy and provides a lot of textural interest. Pines - host 232 caterpillar species We have White & Table Mountain Pines at Painters this fall–both beautiful trees as well as excellent keystones. White Pines grow pretty quickly for evergreens, so are also a great privacy screen option. Basswood - host 132 caterpillar species These amazing native trees enrich the soil, have medicinal properties, the fragrant summer blooms providing excellent food for bees, and foliage is a rich yellow in fall. Beech - host 116 caterpillar species Beech become tall, dense trees (providing shade & privacy), provide many ethnobotanical benefits, and offer lovely orange fall color with leaves persisting late into the cold months. Shrubs & smaller trees are also essential Not everyone has space for one or more large shade trees–and that’s where keystone shrubs and smaller trees come in!  Below are some of our favorite keystones recommended for our area. Blueberries (above left), Black Raspberries (center) and Florida Dogwood (right) are all excellent keystone shrubs and smaller trees for our area that provide lovely flowers and edible fruit along with essential wildlife support. Willows - host 289 caterpillar species Commonly seen along riverbanks, we are currently in between crops at Painters, but Black Willows especially are extremely beneficial keystone plants! Blueberries host 237 caterpillar species We have cultivars of V. corymbosum & ashei; you can also look for the straight species of tenellum, stamineum pallidum or fascatum for the best wildlife support. Raspberries & Blackberries - host 127 caterpillars Choose one of our native straight species or cultivars of red raspberry, black raspberry or blackberry as opposed to the hybrids to have the best wildlife support–our favorite for both our own eating and wildlife is black raspberry! American Hazelnuts - host 108 caterpillars We have American Hazelnut this fall–an incredible wildlife resource & food for us too! Native Roses - host 105 caterpillars Currently in between crops at Painters. Look for Carolina Rose, Virginia Rose, or Swamp Rose, but be aware that they can spread quickly and give them room to breathe to reduce mildew issues. Dogwoods  - host 101 caterpillar species Native Flowering Dogwood has berries containing 25% fat vs the Japanese Dogwood’s berries which have 2% fat–a huge difference for migrating birds especially! We currently have three species of native dogwood at Painters. Serviceberries - host 101 caterpillar species We have a couple species of this amazing native as well a few hybrids which have also been shown to have great wildlife benefit.  Fluffy spring blooms are great for bees, the berries are delicious for people as well as wildlife, and the fall foliage is stunning. Keystone Perennials Fill in between your larger keystones with herbaceous perennials! There are many highly beneficial perennials for our area, but a few really stand out as true keystones.  If you can, plant five or more for the best wildlife benefit–just a couple plants won't attract or support as many insects. Plus, bigger groupings of plants look much better in the garden–a bigger swath of color and texture! We have several species of goldenrod (left), asters (middle) and Helianthus (right) at Painters this fall . Goldenrods - host 104 caterpillar species & 42 native bees Commonly mistaken as the source of fall allergies but rarely the culprit, you simply cannot choose a more beneficial native perennial for your pollinator garden! We grow several species and hybrids offering a range of sizes and blooms shapes, and we guarantee adding them throughout your yard will dramatically increase the health of your ecosystem and the numbers of your pollinators and birds. Asters - host 100 caterpillars & 33 bees Perhaps our favorite keystone perennial as there are SO many beautiful asters of every imaginable color, size and habit–spring as well as fall blooming, and always covered in pollinators! We grew 12 different asters this fall! Helianthus - host 66 caterpillars & 50 bees We have 3 species and several cultivars of native sunflowers, offering different shades of rich yellow and orange and varied heights. Always a showstopper for people as well as pollinators! Rudbeckia - host 20 caterpillars & 29 bees Everyone loves Black-eyed Susans–people, pollinators & birds alike... plus they usually spread, so it's not hard to establish larger patches affordably (much more visual appeal and better wildlife support). We have several species and cultivars, with one of our favorites being the Henry Eilers–there's simply nothing like it! Coreopsis - host 7 caterpillars and 22 bees We grow a range of Coreopsis at Painters, but if you want to ensure keystone support, look for the C. auriculata 'Nana' or the C. lanceolata. We absolutely love the Nana as a low growing border/groundcover–the foliage forms a dense semi-evergreen mat, and the lovely rich mustard yellow blooms simply coat the plants in early spring before much else is blooming. This chart by the National Wildlife Federation is our favorite keystone resource: Also, see Homegrown National Park for their recommended keystone shrubs & trees for our region. Once you have a few Keystones, fill in with more beautiful beneficials! The NC Native Plant Society provides a detailed list of recommended native plants, and the Blue Ridge Audubon Society provides a list of natives essential to birds.  Some of these listed species may not be considered keystones, but are still very important to our pollinators, birds, and ecosystem as a whole.  This includes our plant of the week, the American Beautyberry , and last week’s featured plant, Black Chokeberry (both on sale right now and truly excellent wildlife plants as well as beautiful additions to your landscape).    NOW IT'S TIME TO PLAN AND PLANT! Sources https://homegrownnationalpark.org/keystone-trees-and-shrubs/ https://nwf.org/keystoneplants

Concerned about soil washing away on the slope in your yard, in that bank by your driveway, or on the newly cleared land by your back garden? Then this is a quick list to get you started! Note: If you're concerned about major landslides, then stabilization with plants is not your first step - you'll need to address drainage and slow stormwater flow. Immediately consider regrading, terracing, retaining walls, and erosion mats before planting.  While not simple or fast solutions, if you start from square one, you 'll sleep easier! Check out this blog by the NC Extension Master Gardeners for some great information to get you started. So, we'd all like quick control. You might have heard your uncle say to plant English Ivy or Vinca.  These cheap invasives have no trouble covering ground, but at what cost to you AND the environment?  They grow unchecked, overrun their boundaries, and choke out ecologically significant plants. For such a "low maintenance" plant, you may be in for more work than you ever imagined. Also, these plants get boring to look at. Choose the right plants for your location that you and the birds and pollinators love, and you will be enjoying this space for a long, long time. Give your bank the respect you would a normal landscape bed.   You have many plant options at your disposal and, with a little creativity, you can have a low maintenance slope full of color, texture, ecological significance, and  stability. A successful example at a team member's home includes St. John's Wort, Goldenrod, and River Oats --bright, beautiful, beneficial, and beyond effective! This list features plants that can naturalize small areas by suckering roots; plants that have a tendency to spread by self-sowing ( great for your pocketbook too! ); and those that have deep fibrous roots that hold banks. Plants with well-developed root systems can inhibit erosion by securing the soil from runoff in rainstorms or from blowing away. Plus many of these are native plants which are especially well-suited to the climate and soil conditions, making them excellent choices for erosion control. Eroding banks are not all one and the same--watch for the asterisk denoting plants that need/thrive in moist soil, and the italics indicating those preferring part shade. Grasses Blue Fescue Feather Reed Grass Little Bluestem Love Grass Northern Sea Oats Pennsylvania Sedge Pink Muhly Grass Prairie Dropseed Switch Grass Rhizomatous (UNDERGROUND STEMS) Bee Balm Daylily Fern (Ostrich, Christmas, Lady, etc) Dwarf Crested Iris* Lamb's Ear Lemon Balm Red Hot Poker Wildflowers Aromatic Aster Black-eyed Susan Blanket Flower Blue Flag Iris* Butterfly Milkweed Coneflower Coreopsis False Sunflower Hoary Vervain Ironweed* Mountain Mint Spotted Bee Balm Sunflower 'Maximilian' Wild Bergamot Yellow Coneflower White Wood Aster Small-scale Groundcovers Ajuga Creeping Phlox Foamflower Creeping Speedwell Green and Gold Heuchera Pachysandra Lamium Hardy Ice Plant Sedum ('Angelina', 'Blue Spruce' ...) Woodland Phlox Upright Suckering Shrubs Arrowwood Viburnum Beautyberry Blueberry Bush Honeysuckle Buttonbush* Swamp Rose* Doghobble* Elderberry* False Indigo Forsythia Inkberry Itea Ninebark Red Chokeberry Redtwig Dogwood Serviceberry Shrubby St. Johns Wort Smooth Sumac Summersweet Willow Winterberry* Sprawling Shrubs Bearberry Blackberry Cotoneaster Fragrant Sumac Creeping Juniper Raspberry *Prefers wet feet, [italics] Prefers shade Click here to download a copy of this list: Given our recent events here in Western NC, we need to say explicitly that this document is not to address large scale landslides. We are not experts at geologic solutions or slope gradations. If your embankment or slope is extreme, please first consider physical mitigations and perhaps professional support. This article is to offer plant solutions for smaller scale, residential slopes.

This blog is intended for those of us in WNC who have lost a lot of plants or had damage to our property from Hurricane Helene. That said, this guidance can also be helpful for anyone starting a new garden or restoring depleted soils! Since opening up this spring, we’ve been both heartened and saddened to hear of all of the shared experiences from Helene and how the destruction has affected customer gardens and yards, woods and views--not to mention loss of entire homes or worse. This is definitely a time of shared intense emotion; the last 6 months were some of the hardest many of us have experienced, and the recovery is just starting--both of the land and our homes, and of our hearts and minds.   We are perhaps the most eager we’ve ever been to get into our outdoor spaces and get our fingers in the dirt, yet we also may be struggling with feeling overwhelmed, unsure of how or where to start, or simply not having our usual energy and focus as we dive into the growing season. As we feel all of this with you, we are so incredibly grateful to be in the business of providing things that grow, heal, give beauty and nourishment, and foster joy! We will do all we can to support you--offering younger, more affordable native plants for restoration planting, adding to our gardening guidance resources (both on the website and posted around the greenhouse), or simply by lending a compassionate ear as you share your experiences. Whether you’re facing a blank slate with significant changes to your outdoor space, or simply starting a new garden, these tips should help--remember--Rome wasn’t built in a day! P lan Properly Consider changes to your light, soil, and air flow, and try not to rush into things. We cannot possibly over-emphasize the benefits of choosing the right plant for the right place ! Do you have significantly more sunlight in your space than you had before?  (If you lost plants, keep in mind that your favorites may not work in the same spots as they flourished before.) Silver lining--if you were lacking sunny spots before and now you have a lot more, there are so many new options available to you: coneflowers, butterfly milkweed, tomatoes & peppers to name a few! You may now have the option to install a full sun pollinator bed or a successful summer veggie garden where you weren’t able to sustain them before.  Alternatively, if you really love shade plants and want to have them again, don't lose hope--plant a few larger/fast-growing shrubs strategically and you can quickly recreate a shaded area. Did you lose a lot of top soil? Did your yard get buried in sand?  Make sure to give any washed out or buried areas several more weeks to be sure that any surviving plants have time to emerge - you may be surprised! We highly recommend doing a soil test if your soils were altered by the flood. You may have very different acidity and drainage now. Dig holes throughout your gardening space to see how much of it was altered and see how far down the change in soil goes--maybe you just have a few inches of sand deposited but still have some good top soil left underneath. If you have areas where you lost most top soil and were left with a lot of sand and rock, consider installing more of a rock garden/desert garden. There are many amazing plants that we often can't manage in our clay soils that thrive in rockier areas with good drainage, and this allows you to work with what is there rather than starting from scratch to recreate prior soil structures.   You may have more air flow than before--a good thing as it prevents disease and mildew! But you could also have higher winds if you had a lot of tree loss and you may want to consider planting a wind screen. Or maybe you have to look at neighbors and neighboring properties that you used to have hidden from you? Read more about shrubs and trees for screening here . If you’re working with a ‘blank slate,’ try to see the positives. Consider changes you've always wanted to make, update these as needed based on how your space has been altered, and make a plan of attack. Try to be realistic about the stages required--don’t try to do it all in a year! Consider not just the expense of tackling it all at once, but the labor of digging (may be more than before if you have a lot of rock deposited), how much time and expense will be needed to amend your soils, and don’t forget the time watering and caring for it all. A whole new landscape takes a heck of a lot more time for planning, installation, AND maintenance than a single garden or smaller area!  If lots of work is needed for your soil to be restored, a great option is to start with just a few shrubs or trees that work for your space. Digging and amending a few large holes is much easier than tackling entire garden beds. Then perhaps add some planters with annuals and edibles to bring some color, fresh food, and fun to the space as you work through the bigger picture. P rep Your Space Soil building takes a lot of time and effort if you're doing it yourself, and can be very expensive if getting deliveries of supplemental top soils and compost--but if you skip this step you may not have success with your plantings.  We like this discussion of soil testing and her recommendations. If you're pacing yourself and planning on rebuilding the soil at least in part yourself, then check out th is guidance from NC State.  If you’re looking to buy soil and amendments and not wanting to spend 1-3 years rebuilding your soil, we’ve had good experiences with Asheville Mulch Yard (keep in mind that due to very high demand, they may have periods where they’re out of stock).  We still recommend doing a soil test on any soil or compost mix you plan to buy in bulk to ensure it's healthy (t here are no state regulations on topsoil quality in North Carolina, so it is buyer beware). You may need to incorporate more amendments than you'd typically use depending on how depleted your soils are even if you have new soil brought in. If you’re digging deeper than the new layer of soil, consider adding additional compost, soil conditioner, worm castings, Mycorrhiza and other root boosters and foods like Triple Super Phosphate (this is where the soil testing can be essential to see what is most needed). Add a layer of mulch to your new plantings ( always leaving room around base of trunk or plant ) to hold any new soil and amendments in place and protect from drying out excessively. If you have been left with a lot of dead trees, limbs and branches, consider building a Hugelkultur bed --a great way to use up wood detritus (as long as it’s not Black Walnut) and organic material already on your property. They can take some work to build, but once established are pretty low maintenance, often less water needy, and can produce very healthy plants! Be P atient (with your gardens and yourself!) Your end result will be so much better if you take the time to plan, choose the right plant for the right place , and not try to rush into it or redo everything at once.  Be patient and give yourself some grace! There is so much we are all processing and so much we are still having to do outside of restoring our yards (for instance calling FEMA for the 50th time to see if that support money is ever coming!). If you lost your gardens, many plants may have had meaning to you on a personal level--you may have even lost memorial gardens or plants that were gifted to your by loved ones. If you have a lot of downed trees nearby, it's hard to deny the visual and visceral impact of that loss. Take time for these feelings. Remember to pace yourself and instead of rushing to have a perfect, finished landscape, take time to enjoy the planning and rebuilding. And while we encourage thoughtful planning so that you have success with your plants, we also encourage planting some things for immediate gratification and joy--planters, baskets, annual color--whatever brings you happiness and solace as you enter this new garden season!

I don't know about the rest of you but I am smitten. Well actually, no... head over heels! I LOVE looking at plants , talking about plants, thinking about plants , and helping other people fall in love with plants too . ( Maybe it's how I ended up at Painters? ) And I LOVE learning more about plants too. But we all know how learning goes. It's a slow game. And each of us does it differently. Some of us learn by reading or listening; some by teaching or doing; some alone or in groups... and most all of us need some repetition. So at this time of year where I am just sitting here reading about plants and dreaming of plants , I thought I would put together a compilation blog featuring the Painters Greenhouse 'Words of the Week.' I thought it would be a great resource to return to (I always need to look things up!) and that needed repetition! For those with a growth mindset! But before I go further, props to team member John B. for this idea. We've been posting a Word of the Week in our seasonal weekly newsletter since spring of 2024. It's been an edifying experiment. From the start of the process where I get to chat with my fellow Painters' staff and learn from these great brains here, to those moments where customers drop their new vocab word in conversation--learning together is so rad! Bonus points to my kind and silly partner who reads the newsletter and never fails to insert the word in context sometime during the week. It's a jolly game for nerds in the know. So if you want to be a "nerd in the know" with me, click the side arrows to review the 'Words of the Weeks' from 2024 and 2025 . See which ones you've mastered, how many you remember from the newsletter, or unearth something entirely new! Remontant /rəˈmäntnt/ (of a plant) blooming or producing a crop more than once a season From the French for “rise again” You may have heard of remontant roses. But there are many other examples, such as Encore Azaleas or Group 2 Clematis . W.O.W from 2024.06.11 Lepidoptera /le-pə-ˈdäp-tə-rə/ a large order of winged insects made up of certain butterflies, moths, and skippers as adults, lepidoptera have four broad or lanceolate wings covered with overlapping and often brightly colored scales as larvae, lepidoptera are caterpillars this order has more than 180,000 species, with most of these being moths. Only the Coleoptera (Beetles) form a larger order of any animal W.O.W from 2024.06.18 Biennial /bīˈenēəl/ any herbaceous flowering plant that completes its life cycle in two growing seasons During the first growing season, biennials produce roots, stems, and leaves. During the second growing season, they produce flowers, fruits, and seeds, and then they die. All the reproductive growth is in the second season. Examples: hollyhocks, foxgloves and some rudbeckia species W.O.W from 2024.06.25 Proboscis /prōˈbäskəs/ an elongated feeding mouthpart attached to the head of an animal–typically tubular and flexible the most well known example of a proboscis in insects is the feeding tube used by adult butterflies and moths W.O.W from 2024.07.18 Inflorescence /ˌinflōˈresns/ simply, the group or cluster of flowers arranged on a stem it's the complete flower head of a plant that includes stems, stalks, bracts, and flowers Inflorescence is categorized by the arrangement of flowers on the main axis and by the timing of its flowering. W.O.W from 2024.09.05 Self fertile /ˌselfˈfərd(ə)l/ fertile by means of its own pollen or sperm For example, a self-fertile fruit tree can pollinate itself and produce fruit without needing pollen from another tree. Click to find our pollination charts on our Edibles Page! W.O.W from 2024.09.17 Keystone Plant Plants that have a very large impact on ecosystem health and vitality. Generating a network of beneficial relationships and providing critical sources of food and/or shelter for a large number of other species, they are truly native plant superstars! Read more in Dana's blog: W.O.W from 2024.09.24 Nativar /ˈnay·tuh·vär/ a cultivar of a native plant that has been selected for specific traits Nativars can be natural variants found in the wild or developed by plant breeders. At Painters, so customers can make the most informed purchases, the dark maroon signage indicates that the plant is a Nativar. Red is for Natives. (Green is Ornamental.)   W.O.W from 2025.02.26 Herbaceous /(h)ərˈbāSHəs/ describes plants with soft rather than woody tissues. They include many perennials, and nearly all annuals and biennials.  Find a wide selection of herbaceous plants at Painters: Herbaceous houseplants, some select perennials and annuals, and accent plants are in the main greenhouse. In early spring, the cold hardy herbaceous perennials and annuals are out on our retail floor. And as the weather warms, you'll find more! Our Cold Frame (the building to the left of the parking lot) is available for shopping, but remember that many of these herbaceous perennials might still be dormant in early spring W.O.W from 2025.03.04 Rhizome /ˈrī-ˌzōm/  photo credit: University of Florida A modified plant stem which grows horizontally, under the surface of the soil. New growth then emerges from different points of the rhizome. Bee balm, ostrich ferns, and mint are examples of rhizomatous plants. (Not to be confused with rhizomic or rhizomatic...) W.O.W from 2025.03.11 Drupe  /droop/ a simple fleshy fruit consisting of an outer skin, a usually pulpy and succulent middle layer, and a hard and woody inner shell enclosing a single seed As a simple fruit, a drupe is derived from a single ovary of an individual flower.  Examples are cherries, peaches, and plums. Check out our current availability: W.O.W from 2025.03.18 Catkin /kat-kin/ slender, spikelike, drooping flower clusters, often resembling kitten tails, that are typically found on trees like oaks, willows, and birches, and are known for releasing pollen via wind pollination Pussy willow catkins are some of our favorites! W.O.W from 2025.03.25 Raceme /ray - seem/ A single stemmed inflorescence with flowers on individual short stalks along a stem. The bottom flowers open first as the raceme continues to elongate. Snapdragon and Delphinium flowers grow on racemes W.O.W from 2025.04.01 Trichome /ˈtri-ˌkōm/ An epidermal hair structure on a plant. Trichomes, particularly glandular trichomes, are directly related to a plant's aroma because they are the structures that produce and store the volatile compounds that give plants their characteristic scents.  In addition to aroma, trichomes also serve as a defense mechanism for plants, deterring pests and herbivores with their sticky resin and strong scents.  Some of our favorite herbs (with vigorous trichomes!) are Mandarin Lemon Balm, Honey Melon Pineapple Sage, and Cinnamon Basil! Plus all the mints! Mmmmmmmmm! W.O.W from 2025.04.09 Mutualism /myoo-choo- uh -liz- uh m/ a symbiotic relationship where two species benefit from each other in a close and prolonged association it can occur between species of the same or different species For example, pollinators and flowers engage in mutualism where bees obtain nectar for food and flowers benefit from pollination.  Mutualism is a common and important phenomenon in ecosystems, playing a significant role in shaping biodiversity and the evolution of species. Mutualism is thought to have played a major role in the diversification of life on Earth. It's vital to life itself.  Read our blog about Figs and Wasps: W.O.W from 2025.04.15 Bract /brakt/ A specialized leaf or leaflike part that protects a flower or other reproductive structure on a plant. Usually growing just below a flower or flower cluster, it is often confused with petals or sometimes the flower itself, as in the case of dogwoods or bougainvilleas. The large pink dogwood bracts surround the smaller greenish flowers W.O.W from 2025.04.23 Emergent Plant /ih-mur-juhnt/ Emergent plants grow in shallow water areas like marshes, along lake shores, and in wetlands, where they form a transitional zone between wet and dry environments. These plants are rooted in the substrate (like the bottom of a pond or lake) but their stems, leaves, and flowers grow above the water surface. They provide habitat for fish and wildlife, provide food for waterfowl, and they can help reduce shoreline erosion. Sometimes called Marginal plants as well. Read more about these plants at Painters: W.O.W from 2025.04.30 Fasciated flowers /fash-ee-ey-shuhn/ flattened, elongated shoots and flower heads that look like many stems compressed together into a band or bundle while not common, it is not considered rare across plant species and usually not of concern This strange-looking development may be ugly or attractive, but is always interesting! W.O.W from 2025.05.06 Understory /uhn-der-stohr-ee/  A forest layer between the canopy and the forest floor, typically composed of small trees, shrubs, vines and other lower-lying vegetation. It receives less sunlight than the canopy and is often characterized by a humid and sheltered environment. It plays a crucial role in ecosystem functioning by influencing stand development, fire behavior, and providing habitats for various wildlife species. In a garden, the understory refers to the layer of plants that grow beneath the taller canopy of trees or other large plants. These plants are shade-tolerant and can contribute to the overall beauty and complexity of a garden. W.O.W from 2025.05.13 Anemochory  / uh -nem- uh -kohr-ee/  the dispersal of plant seeds or spores by wind A common method of seed dispersal, anemochory relies on the wind to carry seeds and fruits away from the parent plant. Plants that rely on anemochory often have adaptations like wings, hairs, or plumes on their seeds or fruits to facilitate their transport by wind.  Examples include dandelion seeds with pappi, milkweed seeds with fluffy hairs, and maples with winged fruits. W.O.W from 2025.05.20 Samara /sə-ˈma-rə/ a type of winged, dry fruit that helps disperse seeds through wind, as of the elm or maple Popularly referred to as helicopters! The shape of a samara with its thin, dry, wing-like projection at one end and an enclosed seed at the other enables the wind to carry the seed further away from the tree than regular seeds would go, and is thus a form of anemochory (see above).  W.O.W from 2025.05.27 Monoecious plant /muh-nee-shuhs/ Plants bearing separate male and female flowers on the same plant potentially leading to self-pollination and fertilization. i.e. Tuberous begonias are monoecious. Tuberous begonias bear male and female flowers on the same plant. Produced in clusters of three, with two smaller female flowers next to the larger, usually double, male flower. W.O.W from 2025.06.03 Soft Landings Soft landings are diverse native plantings under keystone trees (or any other regionally appropriate native tree). These plantings provide critical shelter and habitat for one or more life cycle stages of moths, butterflies, and beneficial insects such as bumble bees, fireflies, lacewings, and beetles. In addition to plants, soft landings also include leaf litter, duff, and plant debris. Read more here: W.O.W from 2025.06.17 Phalaenophily  /fuh-lay-NAH-fuh-lee/ pollination by moths, specifically when moths act as the primary pollinators of a plant It's a type of pollination syndrome where plants and their pollinators have co-evolved traits that attract and facilitate moth pollination. Some examples are nocturnal blooms, pale or white colors, strong sweet scents, or large, funnel-shaped structures. W.O.W from 2025.07.21 Vernalization /vərnəˌlīˈzāSHən/ The induction of a plant's flowering process by exposure to prolonged cold—either from winter or artificially. After vernalization, plants have acquired the ability to flower but may require additional seasonal cues or weeks of growth before they will actually do so. Critical for the bulbs we love to sell in the fall! W.O.W from 2025.09.16 Cold Stratification /strat- uh -fi-key-sh uh n/ The process of subjecting certain seeds to a period of cold, moist conditions to break their dormancy and prepare them for germination. This mimics the natural overwintering process seeds undergo in the wild, where cold temperatures soften the hard seed coat and trigger the embryo. Find native plant seeds and seed mixes in stock from Sow True Seed. Or maybe scoop up any of the many plants that reseed readily for natural cold stratification: northern sea oats, hardy ageratum, rudbeckia, frost aster, coneflower, and more! Read more in our seed-sowing blog: W.O.W from 2025.09.23 Cauliflory /kaw-li-flawr-ee/ from the Latin caulis = stem and flory = flower a botanical term for when flowers grow on mature trunks and branches rather than at stem tips and new shoots It is an adaptation that allows for pollination and seed dispersal by animals climbing on the limbs and trunks to feed on nectar and fruits–an important support for pollination in a forest understory specifically. Redbuds are trees that do this, although they also bloom on stems. Check out the availability of redbuds at Painters: Redbud cauliflory W.O.W from 2025.09.30 Aggregate fruit /ˈaɡrəɡət ˌfro͞ot/ a single fruit formed from a single flower that has numerous separate ovaries, each developing into a small fruitlet These individual fruitlets, such as the drupelets in a blackberry or raspberry, merge or appear clustered together into a single, larger fruit structure. find (potential) aggregate fruits in the fruit trees and shrubs at Painters One of our new favorites: the ‘Glencoe’ raspberry–a cross between black and red raspberry strains. Its sweet purple berries are delicious fresh or cooked! W.O.W from 2025.10.07 Marcescence /mar-CESS-enss/ when deciduous trees hold on to much of their dead leaves until spring Done mainly by oaks and beeches, but also witch hazels and hornbeams and occasionally Japanese maples. The leaves often change color in the fall but won’t fall off the branch. They stay, wrinkled and brown, until new growth pushes them off the branch.  As we celebrate the season of dormancy and quiet, the marcescent leaves are the backdrop to the soundtrack of winter. The cold, quiet rustling of held leaves. See you soon in the spring! When the oak leaves fall… W.O.W from 2025.10.14

Our third annual Little Crafty is Saturday, December 14th, and we cannot wait to see you. Supporting artisans and small business owners is always a laudable effort, but this year in WNC, it's critical. Joining together to support one another, we work towards a quicker and more robust recovery, ensuring that our local businesses and artisans continue to thrive despite the challenges of Helene. And Painters is so thrilled to present this gifted group of local artists at Little Crafty; your gift shopping will be a joy! This holiday season, you can feel good about your choices, knowing that your gifts are not only beautiful but also contribute to the livelihoods of some truly remarkable creators. Swipe through the photos below for a sneak peak at what we have in store: FOR THE BIRDS ADD SOME HOLIDAY SPIRIT FOR THE HARDCORE GARDENERS FOR THE GLAM GARDENERS STOCKING STUFFERS SMALL HUMAN APPROVED FOR THE HOST PAINTERS GEAR FOR THE BIRDS For the bird lover in your life, choose from an array of fun or functional gifts: delicate paper quilled ornaments, whimsical garden accessories, unique stickers and prints, or practical bird homes and feeders. And for the voracious birder, an Audubon bird call to imitate and attract a variety of birds! Preview a few favorites from the photos below: (CLICK ON THE PHOTO FOR PRICES AS AVAILABLE) ADD SOME HOLIDAY SPIRIT From holiday ornaments to jolly adornments, there is an abundance of cheer at Painters Little Crafty. Find paperwhite terrariums and handwoven wreaths from talented vendors, choose from paper, wooden, glass and metal ornaments in all styles, or shop a plethora of pottery and seasonal plants galore. Your home is going to be gorgeous. FOR THE HARDCORE GARDENERS The diehard growers will always find their crew at Painters. And we know what you need to get going: Gauntlet gloves, Spearhead Spades, and leatherwork bags and holsters for all the tools you pick up (hand weeders, shears, spray wands, plant markers, and more!) Plus pots, soil, native seed mix, and select native shrubs & trees for restoration. Flaunt your hardcore spirit with ( temporary) tattoos from NatureTats and post up at Painters. FOR THE GLAM GARDENERS For those of us who really just appreciate the finer things in life, we've got gifts for you! Glow up with Chevron pottery, golden mushroom trays, copper garden art, and the most exclusive plants. We have stately statuary, pretty cast iron hose guards, and stunning metal & glass artwork from vendors to dress up your space! Peruse these glam goods to find a variety of goods to indulge in: STOCKING STUFFERS Botanical treats and treasures come in all sizes. Enjoy browsing Painters' favorites to fill the stockings of those you love. Gorgeous jewelry from some of our best-loved vendors, all kinds of stickers and prints, small-batch craft chocolate, propagation stations, magnets and more! SMALL-HUMAN APPROVED There is so much joy in finding gifts for the little ones this time of year, and we have so many options. Find scores of tiny succulents and mini animal pots; there are sticker books and animal playing cards; or choose among delightful prints and presents from talented vendors. We have so many choices for the young ones or those still young at heart. FOR THE HOST Bring the host or hostess in your life a one-of-a-kind gift of art, pottery, or stunning plants from Painters. Maybe a paperwhite terrarium or hanging air plant, a wreath from Mackey Meadows, a delicious treat from Houston House Bakery, lotions or soaps from Earth Echoes... check out these photos to preview some of our favorite gifts! PAINTERS GREENHOUSE GEAR For all the biggest fans of Painters Greenhouse, we've got Painters' gear to flaunt this favorite space. Plus you can support restoration at Painters and at home: purchase a gift card for future plants! Find all of these treats and treasures and so much more at Painters Little Crafty. We can't wait to see you there. Tickets to Little Crafty are donation based ($5 minimum, kids under 18 do not need a ticket) with all proceeds benefitting Old Fort residents and businesses in need via www.oldforthelp.org . While you shop, enjoy music from local Appalachian folk string band Bull Moose Party from 12:00 to 3:00 . Plus you can fuel up at our favorite food truck Arepitas on the Go from 11:00 to 4:00. Their cuisine is true nourishment for our bodies and soul! Click the link for tickets and to see a full list of vendors. It's going to be a lovely event.

Why We Should Celebrate Periodical Cicadas Source: Atlas Obscura, "The Cicada Poems of Ancient Greece" Having been surrounded by an increasingly loud hum these last few weeks in Old Fort, we've had many customers ask us "What's that noise?!". No, it's not an alarm--just thousands of cicadas in the trees! Their populations are scattered around the area, so you may not have them in your community - plus, they haven't been here for almost two decades, so it's understandable if you don't remember the sound! The Periodical Cicada (Scientific name is literally Magicicada) Cicadas are an amazing and bizarre insect regardless of how long they live--most annual cicadas emerge every 1-5 years, and we hear them singing in the trees mid to late summer. Most of what we are hearing now is the Brood XIV periodical cicada, which sound a bit different and emerge earlier in the season. One of the longest lived insects, they've been underground for SEVENTEEN YEARS, and then emerge for only a few weeks of life above ground! This brood hatched 17 years ago, then dug 5-6 feet underground as tiny nymphs . They then spent almost two decades slowly growing while feeding on root sap (and doing other magical unknown things) before they dug back to the surface. After a brief period of slowly bumbling around in their final nymph stage, they undergo their last metamorphosis--literally splitting down the back and shoving out of the old shell to finish growing their wings. Now is when we really start noticing them, as they spend weeks flying around like klutzy whirligigs screaming for mates! Maybe they gross you out? Or you find the hum just a bit too loud for comfort? Or you're worried about your gardens being eaten? Freshly hatched in Old Fort, Credit: Chris Whaley Here's why Brood XIV is a good thing for WNC: SO MUCH FOOD! Adults provide an incredible amount of food for birds, amphibians, reptiles, small mammals, and fish - which then has a ripple effect of boosting the entire ecosystem. This is perfect timing following the loss of wildlife and habitat from Helene! (And if the world descends into further chaos, we may just want to chow down too - they're highly nutritious and considered a delicacy by many cultures.) IMPROVED SOIL STRUCTURE Nymphs burrowing up through the soil provide improved aeration and more effective water infiltration, which both helps plants survive during periods of drought and helps mitigate heavy rains as the soil can absorb more water and we have reduced runoff and potential for flooding. INCREASED SOIL FERTILITY The molts as well as any adults not eaten by predators are seemingly everywhere - and they will all be decomposing... that's a lot of natural fertilizer! This will also support plant health along with the improved aeration and water flow. ENVIRONMENTAL INDICATORS Because of their long and very unique lifespans, periodical cicadas are very important study subjects. Changes in their populations, health and distribution can help inform studies on the effects of human development, habitat fragmentation, pollution, and climate change. Cicadas symbolize rebirth, renewal and transformation in many cultures and have been featured in poems , music, and art around the world for centuries. WNC could use such a symbol as we rebuild and recover! Read on for FAQs and fun facts! The Last Nymph Stage The Last Molt Final Winged Stage Will they ruin my gardens? Short answer--no, but taking extra care with shrubs and trees is helpful. Adult cicadas barely eat (they have something else on their minds), so no fear of your annuals and perennials being damaged. Females do cause some damage when depositing eggs - they use their ovipositor to saw into branches and then insert their eggs . This can cause leaf drop and die off of branch tips (known as 'flagging'). While it's unusual for this to cause long term damage or kill the plant, it can be helpful to cover younger shrubs and trees with a fine mesh to prevent females from accessing them. Regardless of whether you protect with mesh, we recommend taking extra care with deciduous shrubs and trees planted within the last few years (cicadas don't lay eggs in evergreens). If properly watered and mulched, your plants will be better equipped to handle any extra stress ( note that while using some compost or a root booster such as triple superphosphate when planting a new shrub or tree is often helpful, you should not fertilize them when struggling with pest or disease damage--this can lead to them putting more energy into new growth and therefore having less to defend themselves ). Why are there so many? Cicadas have evolved to survive by simply overwhelming predators by sheer numbers. They have little to no defenses, so their massive populations ensure that enough survive to breed and have young. During their peak, in highly concentrated areas, there can be up to 1.5 MILLION cicadas per acre! Tell me more about the sound. The males compete with one another to see who can make the loudest mating call by flexing their tiny cicada muscles to rapidly buckle membranes called 'tymbals' against their body. This creates a speedy clicking noise, which sounds amazingly different when thousands of cicadas are 'singing' at once. The males will often engage in synchronous chorusing - which makes them sound even louder and is hypothetically used to both grab the attention of females as well as confuse predators. Brood XIV is known to be the loudest of our cicadas, with noise levels reaching 100 decibels (comparable to a passing jet)! Those red eyes are creepy. Actually, they have 5 eyes! Three are on their forehead. So you can be extra creeped out! For more about periodical cicadas check out this excellent article from the Irvine Nature Center in Maryland. We hope we helped you see these fascinating insects in a new light! Cicada Life Cycle. Credit: Smithsonian Museum of Natural History The extremely rare Baby Rhinoceros Cicada. ... JK, it's actually an Oak Treehopper - a bit smaller, cuter, and only has 4 eyes.

How to prep your garden for our usual seasonal heavy rains, and what to do after: BEFORE 🌧 Drainage: clear ditches and rain-prone runoff areas (consider digging ditches deeper) to ensure water is being funneled away from low areas and to avoid wash-out of gardens or driveways  🌧 This is a good time to make sure all of your containers, planters, and outdoor pots have good drainage holes. Move or cover any that could flood and damage the plants' roots. 🌧 Manage your rain barrel or position buckets to collect any of this precious commodity for future watering. 🌧 Support tall plants, as heavy rains and wind can cause breakage or flopping that may be hard for them to recover from. 🌧 Cover delicate & rot-prone plants with plastic sheeting/pots to prevent damage/excess saturation, but be sure to uncover on occasion to allow for air flow to prevent mildew (lavender is a great example) 🌧 Harvest any ripe fruits or flowers that could be damaged by debris, wind, or rain. Enjoy your cut blooms and unblemished foods! 🌧 Bring in any hanging baskets or containers (if a manageable size) or move them to a more sheltered location to keep them from being battered by wind and rain. Specifically petunias! 🌧 Plant those plants you haven't gotten to yet - the best time for them to get established is with days of rain ahead! AFTER 🌦 Uncover all covered containers/plants immediately to allow for air flow and sun to hit them. 🌦 Check containers and beds for washed out soil and exposed roots, re-cover any exposed areas with compost/soil before they get burnt and damage the plant. 🌦 Cut back any broken stems/plants & deadhead spent blooms, retie and support plants that have fallen over. 🌦 Trim the lower leaves off of tomatoes and peppers so the leaves aren't trailing in the wet soil (helps to prevent disease) 🌦 If there was really intense wind, torrential rain, or hail (☹), examine your really tender plants' foliage for damage--items like hostas can really be susceptible. In the spring, you can remove the worst of the battered leaves (a third to one half of the total leaves if early enough). In the summer, remove less and leave more-- removing half the leaves could stress plants to the point of death. 🌦 Deadheading blooms that turned to 'mush' will reduce mildew 🌦 Revamp soils, as nutrients may be leached (specifically raised beds and container gardens): top with compost or mix in organic plant food. 🌦 Watch for slugs, snails and mildews (and treat organically if found). 🌦 Check drainage ditches again and clear built up sediment/detritus.   🌦 Take advantage of wet soils and catch up on weeding--they won't break off at the root and will pop right out! Plus, you get to play in the mud! 🌦 Dig any holes you need for future planting projects. The ground will be pliable and easier to work with. 🌦 Assess your garden. If there are naturally dry spots, make sure your plantings match this feedback. If you end up with consistently wet areas--like that area where the rain runs off the driveway or the downspout drainage plain--consider installing a rain garden to help manage and filter the water. Read more in our blog here :

Maybe you are new to western North Carolina or new to gardening or maybe you spent the spring and summer on other projects! No worries, you are not too late! Fall is generally the best time to plant shrubs and trees in WNC. It's also ideal for planting, transplanting, or dividing herbaceous perennials. Moderating temperatures and increased rainfall gives your plants a strong start for healthy growth next spring. MODERATE TEMPS: Shorter days and cooler temps mean plants experience less stress from the heat of the day. The mild weather lessens transplant shock so the plant can focus its energy toward the roots rather than leaf support. And while the air temperature is dropping, the soil temps are still warm which promotes root development and allows the plant to establish a robust foundation before any winter freeze. Deciduous shrubs and trees in particular will get to focus their energy on root growth during the fall and winter months which sets them up for a strong spring start. And spring bloomers also benefit from this head start in root development. Allowing plants this extra growing time often produces more vigorous growth and blooms next spring. They will be rooted and ready to start putting out growth right out of the gate! RAINFALL: Fall in our region usually means increased rainfall in conjunction with the cooler temperatures. Beyond easing the need for extensive supplemental watering, this added moisture helps to establish root systems which then uptake extra nutrients before winter sets in. Plus less watering pressure means more time for you to design and plant! (As always though, weather and climate systems can swing wildly. Do keep an eye and provide deep watering if we don’t end up having the 'usual' rainfall.) And speaking of easier on you, not only is your watering workload likely reduced in the fall, but the moist, warm soils combined with cooling temps makes for an easier and more comfortable time for YOU in the garden preparing those beds. Who doesn’t love an agreeable day outside!! Plus there are often fewer pests to contend with in the fall compared to the summer. As the weather cools off, many insects become less active reducing chances of infestation on newly planted plants and (fingers-crossed) you too! WINTER COLD EXPOSURE: Finally, fall planting is also the best and most obvious answer if your bulbs, seeds, or plants require cold stratification or vernalization . Basically, a period of cold exposure (and often reduced light) that triggers either flower production or seed germination.   Bulbs (tulips and daffodils as well as natives such as trillium and bluebells), many fruit trees (some apples, cherries and blueberries), cool-season grasses, and many biennial plants (like hollyhocks, foxgloves, and delphiniums) will need the cold winter months to get ready for spring. So get them in soon! Read more about planting perennial edibles in the fall and fall vegetable gardening in our blogs: When should you wait to plant until spring? There are always exceptions to consider. Some perennials do better planted in early spring. Anything that is considered a 'tender perennial' for our region (e.g. zones 7-8) may be best planted in spring so that it has a full growing season to root in before facing winter weather. We also recommend planting summer blooming bulbs in spring rather than fall--such as lilies, dahlias and gladiolus. Plants that don't like their roots sitting wet or that take longer to root in may be more likely to succeed when planted in spring, especially if borderline hardy. When planting grasses such as Pink Muhly or woody herbs like lavender in the fall, we recommend you get them in the ground by the end of September and be sure to amend soils to provide good drainage. These species can struggle when they face both 'wet feet' and cold winters (though super wet, humid and hot summers like this one are sometimes equally challenging!). Annuals obviously will not last through the winter, but it's still nice to add some for a pop of color to refresh those dimming summer beds--you'll find a vibrant selection at Painters this fall including Belgian mums, ornamental cabbage and peppers, snapdragons, pansies and violas (the last of which often do survive our winters.) Plan your visit to Painters and your fall gardens by checking out our Growing and Availability Lists on our website:

Deer munching on their favorite... hostas!! Hate to break it to ya. Deer resistant is not deer proof. No plant is deer proof. Seriously. No. plant. is. deer. proof. When hungry, they will eat anything to survive. (I'm looking at you, wintertime evergreens...) Deer will joyfully nosh on almost everything in spring when there is tender new growth. They especially relish flower buds. Over-fertilized and over-watered plants are particularly lush and appealing to deer. So what's a gardener to do?! Before you throw up your hands and pave the yard, know that there are some strategies to deter these friendly, furry plant scourge. Aroma Deer tend to avoid plants with fragrant leaves making herbs a great choice, like rosemary, sage and lavender. Flowers like salvia and peonies, which have a strong scent, are also unappealing to deer. Shrubs like Lilac Chaste Tree and Caryopteris are extremely resistant to deer and rabbits due to their fragrant blooms and foliage. We highly recommend them and consistently stock them for this reason. (Bonus - they are also great substitutes for butterfly bush - while also not native, they are not invasive, and pollinators love them!) SALE NOTE: Unfortunately, our caryopteris (below right) sold out within the first week of our fall season! Texture, Spines, or Fuzz Deer are not fond of the feel of mullein or lamb's ear. Deer stay away from plants that have prickly textures, such as boxwood and bearberry, or coneflowers with their hairy leaves and stems are unappealing to deer. Magnolias and Leucothoe are generally rock solid in deer deterrence because of their growth habits and leathery leaves. Find a great selection of both genera at Painters during any season. We are currently carrying Umbrella, Fraser and Sweetbay Magnolias--great native options--as well as several other super cultivars. And always popular, the natives and the varieties of Leucothoe axillaris and Leucothoe fontanesiana move quickly! Toxic plants Deer generally steer clear of toxic plants, including daffodils and bleeding heart. Yews, although toxic, are a bit more complicated. The Japanese plum ye w, Cephalotaxus, is considered to be quite resistant to deer. (Although, again, if they are without options, they can eat this too!) But do not confuse a Japanese plum yew with the common yew or English yew, Taxus, which are deer magnet s!! Rutgers University classified these as “frequently severely damaged” on their list of Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance.  If you are looking to deter deer from your garden, opt for a plant belonging to the Cephalotaxus genus and avoid Taxus yews.  Japanese Plum Yew Ferns and Grasses generally have great resistance to deer. Whether you love big statement plants like ostrich ferns or royal ferns, or you are looking for some gorgeous color with Autumn ferns or Painted ferns, you have many varieties to try. The deer generally won't! Same goes for those gorgeous grasses! Little Bluestem, Blue Fescue, Fountain Grass, Switch Grass, Northern Sea Oats, Feather Reed Grass, Pink Muhly, Big Bluestem... and the list goes on and on. Scroll all the way down to download our list of favorites! And don't forget to use tools where you can. Physical barriers are helpful. Young trees are most at risk--fencing and wire caging can help during the early growth. Similarly, vegetables, fruit trees, and bushes can be covered with netting during the growing season (this might help with more than just deer!) Or try our favorite product for deer and rabbit deterrence: Green Screen . A mixture of bone meal, blood meal, and a pepper blend, it's 100% organic and non-toxic and we find that it really works! (We don't currently have any stocked at Painters, but you can buy direct from their website if you don't find it locally.) And the Availability Lists at Painters allow you to sort for some of our most deer resistant plants. Use the search tool at the top of the chart in our Growing List or the Tree and Shrub Availability list . We've done our best to mark those with higher success. A preview of our Tree and Shrub Availability. Click to learn more! Another angle of research would be to make sure to know which plants you want to steer clear of--read up on common plants that are perfectly delicious to deer! You can anticipate some munching if you have deer neighbors and daylilies, hostas, arborvitae, strawberries, or more in your yard... download our most requested handout! And finally, in the end, take a deep breath. Give it your best shot. And know that all rules can be broken, guidelines are just guidelines, and plants are greens --which just might mean food.

How to collect annual and perennial flower and grass seed to sow next season Saving seeds is a fun and economical way to propagate some of your favorite, or hard-to-find plants. It’s a great way to share with family and friends and grow more of what you love! Here, we’ll cover beginner-friendly steps to save seeds from your garden for next season’s planting. We’ll discuss identifying, harvesting, storing, and eventually planting said seeds. We’ll specifically discuss saving open-pollinated and straight species flower and grass seeds. Saving vegetable seeds can be a little more complicated, and there are fantastic resources available if you're interested in giving fruit and veggie seed saving a try (we’ll share some of these resources with you for deep diving).  Gather your supplies: you’ll need snips, envelopes to store seeds, and a marker or pen to label your seed packets. Step one: Identify Which seeds should you harvest and save? It is important to note that while saving annual and perennial flower and grass seed isn’t the most complicated process, it can be a little challenging to determine which of your plants are worth saving seed from and will grow “true to seed”.  “True to seed” simply means that a plant grown from seed will be identical in appearance to its parent plant. Some plants grown in the nursery are hybrids or cultivars grown from two different parent plants to inherit specific traits. Those traits could be based on appearance, height, flower color, or disease resistance, to name a few examples. But the thing about collecting seed from these cultivars or nativars (native plants cultivated or hybridized to have specific traits) is that seed collected from these plants may not grow offspring that are true to seed, matching their parents.  So, how do you know which plants to collect seeds from? A great place to start is by collecting seed from plants that are open-pollinated. Open-pollinated plants are species that are pollinated by insects, birds, wind, or are self-pollinating and will produce viable seed that will grow “true”. Sowing seeds that were cross-pollinated is a powerful means of propagation. Sexual reproduction ensures genetic diversity and increased resilience to changing environments, which is ever so important for the survival and future success of our gardens and pollinators. An example of open-pollinated plants that will generally grow true to seed are straight species* . A straight species is a plant in its wild, naturally occurring form and has undergone no human cultivation. You probably have at least a few straight species already growing in your garden! For example, you might have a fantastic stand of Purple Coneflower Echinacea purpurea that you want to try growing from seed. Straight species Echinacea purpurea will grow true to seed and is worth collecting seed from. One of the many beautiful echinacea hybrids that we carry at Painter’s Greenhouse is the Cheyenne Spirit coneflower, which is a hybrid and produces non-viable seed that will not grow into more Cheyenne Spirit coneflowers. But, when your straight species Purple Coneflowers begin to put out seed heads, they would be an excellent variety to save seed from and to propagate next growing season.  * (If you are looking at the plant name on a sign or label a quick way to tell if something is a cultivar or hybrid is if the common or scientific name is followed by an additional name in quotes: i.e. Echinacea purpurea  'Prairie Splendor.' If it simply says Echinacea purpurea  or Purple Coneflower it is likely the straight species.) This is an excellent reason to label or keep a garden journal of plants you’ve purchased, planted, or started from seed. Not only is it a great way to keep track of what you’ve planted, but it can serve as a handy reference point when determining which varieties to collect and save seed from.  When I’m out in my home garden, I usually remember what I’ve planted, but I’m not always sure if the plants will produce viable seeds. When this happens, I’ll run a quick internet search--which is how I figured out that the Mexican Sunflowers Tithonia rotundifolia I planted will grow true from seed if I harvest them. This was the first year I tried growing tithonia, and the butterflies and hummingbirds were having daily duels over who got to feed off of the cheery orange blooms. I definitely want to try and propagate my patch next year, so I’ll be harvesting and storing seed for next season’s planting.  A few Painter’s Greenhouse Favorites to collect seed from:  Native Asters, Nodding Onion, Obedient Plant, Rattlesnake Master, Goldenrod, non-hybrid Joe Pye Weed, Purple Coneflower, Northern Sea Oats (River Oats), Native Bee Balm, and Milkweed, to name a few! Nodding onion seed collection Step 2: Harvest Once you’ve identified seeds you’d like to collect, it’s time to harvest them. It’s best to harvest seeds from pods or flower heads that have thoroughly dried on the plant. Some seeds are different, but most will be enclosed in pods and flower heads on the plant. You want to collect them once they're thoroughly dried out, but before they have dropped from their stalks. I like to take weekly walks around my garden to see what’s starting to produce seedheads and identify which plants are in the early stages of going to seed, so I can make a note to check back in a few days.  To harvest, I like to snip pods, grass tips, or flower heads from their parent plant and crumble them into my palm. You can also use a clean, dry dish or any other surface of your choice. I’ll remove the chaff (non-seed bits that housed or helped form the seed, which can be petals or other organic material) and separate the seeds. If the seeds are thoroughly dried, I’ll store them in a paper envelope labeled with the plant species name and the date collected. You could be super fancy and also include details about the location the seeds were harvested, as well as the full common and Latin name. You can look up how long the seeds are viable and include that information, along with any other notes your future self may want to remember. Dry Tithonia seed heads Steps 3 and 4: Dry and Store You’ll want to store your seeds in a cool, dry place once they're lovingly tucked away into their storage envelopes. This can be stored in a plastic container, a mason jar, or another suitable vessel tucked away in your fridge or a dark cabinet. Keeping seeds in your garage over the winter can also work, but you want to keep them out of extreme temperature fluctuations and avoid exposure to moisture and light. Seeds need all of those things to germinate, and you don’t want them to germinate prematurely if you're saving them for next spring or fall.  Tithonia seeds! The broken-open seed pod is at the top of my hand, and the seeds themselves are near the bottom of my palm.  Bonus Step: Swap You’ve saved your seeds! You’ve stored them! What’s next?  You could swap them--seed swaps are a great way to share seeds with family, friends, and neighbors. Seek out and attend a seed-sharing event in the area or share your bounty with your community by hosting a seed swap of your own! Step 5: Plant your Seeds First, research your seeds' specific needs and preferred method of breaking dormancy, and determine the best time of year to plant them. Some seeds require cold stratification to break dormancy and germinate. Some are best planted in warmer soil temps. Once you are ready, you can start your seeds in plug trays indoors in early spring. Or you can create a nursery bed in a corner of your yard and try direct seeding or planting your grown-out plugs in this area. This is a great way to keep a close eye on their growth and development and transplant winners out into your main garden. Or maybe you have limited time and space and prefer to just directly sow them into your existing beds. There is no wrong way to try seed sowing! You could even sow directly this fall and some seeds even prefer this. We just posted a blog about cool-stratifying seeds outdoors for spring blooms, if you'd like to check it out: Harvesting and planting seeds grown in your garden can be an enriching experience, and like most gardening endeavors, it can be a fun experiment. You may become the neighborhood zinnia master and share your prize seeds with neighbors. Or you may want to double your milkweed patch and feed all the monarchs! Now is the time to keep an eye out for those bursting, fluffy milkweed pods and collect and dry seed for future growing seasons. Whatever your goals may be, seed saving is a great way to connect with nature, your community, and experiment in your growing space. Stefanie's seed sown garden As promised, here are a few veggie seed saving guides for further research:  https://sowtrueseed.com/blogs/seed-saving/seed-cleaning-techniques-for-seed-saving https://www.almanac.com/how-save-vegetable-seeds