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As we recognize and celebrate the critical importance of pollinators to our ecosystems, we encourage everyone to look to plants that provide vital support to these essential creatures. Joe Pye Weed is an exceptional native, one of our favorite pollinator plants, and for garden artistry, it’s like nothing else! This late-blooming wildflower with its delicate pinkish lavender florets is a gorgeous addition that can add height to the back of a pollinator garden, is stunning en masse such as bordering a fence-line, and provides a splash of color along a sunny stream bank or throughout a rain garden. The mauve-colored blooms also make striking additions to a cut flower bouquet. We are not the only ones who love Joe Pye. It is one of the absolute best for pollinators and wildlife support. Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium spp.) is a host plant for the larvae of many moth species, including: Eupatorium Borer Moth, Three Lined Flower Moth, Great Tiger Moth, Red Groundling, and Clymene. Joe Pye Weed is also a nectar source for many butterflies, including monarchs and swallowtails, as well as bees and other pollinators. It will be positively ALIVE with pollinators in its blooming season. Plus in the fall, birds love to eat the seeds. They are a valuable food source for g oldfinches, juncos, chickadees, tufted titmice, Carolina wrens, and swamp sparrows, among others.  Joe Pye Weed is a perennial plant native to the eastern United States that blooms from mid-summer to autumn. It grows best in full to part sun and moist, evenly-distributed soil but can also tolerate clay soil. In our experience, we have found that if you provide regular moisture during the first year, it can withstand drier periods in future years without supplemental water. Joe Pye Weed is deer and rabbit resistant, and simply requires cutting back to the ground in spring. There are four species of Joe Pye Weed we commonly carry, which differ in heights, habits, and color. Find the Pollinator Superhero that works best for you! Large, maturing specimens available in a range of sizes and prices each season. To find varieties, sizes, and prices, check out this season's Growing and Availability Lists: Spotted Joe Pye Weed Eutrochium maculatum NATIVE perennial (z4-8)  full sun 4-7' tall, 3-4' wide Purply blooms summer to fall Thrives in moist, fertile soil; great height for wet spaces Fantastic food source for wildlife, larval host plant for over 40 species of moths and butterflies Deer and rabbit resistant Joe Pye Weed 'Gateway' Eutrochium maculatum ' Gateway' NATIVAR perennial (z3-9)  full-part sun  4-6' tall, 1-2' wide More compact than the species, with a bushier habit--a garden favorite Huge, fluffy, dusty-pink blooms midsummer to fall Beloved by pollinators; attractive seed heads persist into winter Thrives in consistently moist to wet soil; intolerant of drought These statuesque, big-as-your-head blooms bring the butterflies! Joe Pye Weed 'Little Joe' Eutrochium dubium  'Little Joe' NATIVAR perennial (z3-10)  full-part sun  3-4' tall, 1-3' wide Compact cultivar with better drought tolerance than the species Light purple blooms late summer, fantastic for pollinators Thrives in abundantly moist soil; deer resistant Sweet Joe Pye Weed Eutrochium purpureum NATIVE perennial (z4-9)  full sun-part shade 5-7' tall, 2-4' wide Purple, vanilla-scented blooms summer to fall, beloved by pollinators The most shade tolerant of the Joe Pye species Thrives in rich, moist, well-drained soil, open woodland conditions Fantastic food source for wildlife, larval host plant for over 40 species of moths and butterflies Joe Pye Weed 'Euphoria Ruby' Eutrochium purpureum 'Euphoria Ruby' NATIVAR perennial (z4-9)  full sun 2-3' tall, 2' wide Compact, earlier-flowering, longer-blooming cultivar; an ideal choice for smaller pollinator gardens Pink-purple blooms turn to attractive seed heads, which feed birds and add winter interest Deer and rabbit resistant Hollow Joe Pye Weed Eutrochium fistulosum NATIVE perennial (z3-6)  full sun 4-7' tall, 2-3' wide Fragrant pink blooms summer to fall, wonderful for butterflies and honeybees;  Thrives in rich, wet soil Spectacular flowering and architectural height for damp gardens or water margins Hollow Joe Pye Weed ‘Ivory Towers’ Eutrochium [Eupatorium] fistulosum f. Albidum NATIVAR perennial (z3-9)  full sun-part shade 4-6' tall, 3-4' wide Large, fluffy clusters of creamy white blooms late summer to fall,  beautiful, statuesque, and beloved by pollinators; seeds provide food for birds Deer and rabbit resistant Thrives in moist, fertile soil

White Fringetree Chionanthus virginicus Creamy white late-spring blooms of Chionanthus virginicus Fringetree is a small, deciduous tree that makes a big impact in the landscape. Large, glossy, dark green leaves turn yellow-bronze in fall adding a bit of color to autumn. In late-spring both the male and female trees are adorned with wispy, strap-like, lightly fragrant, creamy white blooms. It won’t take long for your fringe tree to provide ornamental value-– they’re known to bloom at an early age, usually only after 2-3 years of age! White Fringetree flower up close This species is dioecious, meaning each tree is either a male or a female, and both need to be present while blooming to produce fruit. The flowers are pollinated by various bee species. It is difficult to determine whether a specific tree is a male or female at the flowering stage as the flowers exhibit both male and female parts, but are functionally unisexual. Male flowers tend to have larger blooms leading to a showier bloom display--most cultivars tend to be male for this reason. The best way to indicate the sex of a fringe tree at the nursery is by the presence of fruit, which would be on females only.  Fringe tree is in the Oleaceae (Olive) family, along with lilacs, ash, jasmine, forsythia, and olives. The fruits are olive-like drupes that ripen from green to a dark blue fruit. The fruit is eaten by several songbirds and by the pileated woodpecker, wild turkey, and white-tailed deer. The fringe-tree sallow ( Sympisis chionanthi ) is an owlet moth that uses fringe tree as a larval host plant.   NAME:  Greek chion means “snow” and anthos  means “flower” Other common names include “Grancy Graybeard” (“grancy” being another name for Grandpa), “Old Man’s Beard” or “Granddaddy Graybeard” NATIVE RANGE:  Southern New Jersey to Florida and west to Texas FUN FACT:  Native Americans, pioneers, and Appalchian folk herbalists used the bark in various preparations to treat a number of maladies, including skin issues.  Modern herbalists continue to use it today. NOT-SO-FUN FACT:   Fringe tree is in the same family as Ash – and is also at risk from the Emerald Ash borer, though it is not EAB’s first choice.  If the fringe tree is healthy and unstressed it can survive the attack.   GROWING CONDITIONS: SOIL:   Thrives in moist, fertile soil, but can tolerate clay soil and some drought once established. SUNLIGHT: Full sun to part shade – best foliage is achieved in part shade, but best flowers are achieved in full sun HEIGHT/WIDTH: 12-20’ tall and wide – large shrub or small tree.  Oval or wide-spreading shape.  Commonly found with multiple trunks, but easily trained to single trunk.  Average growth is 6-10” per year. ZONES: 3-9 For sizes, prices, and current stock, see our Tree and Shrub Availability Page:

Callicarpa americana Callicarpa americana berries, close-up American beautyberry is a fast growing, native, deciduous shrub mostly known for the magnificent violet-magenta berry display in late September and early October.  The bright berries are a color not often seen in nature and their arrangement of tight clusters around the leaf nodes are just as unusual. While not one for stunning fall color, the anemic looking green leaves will quickly turn yellow before abscission, but the loss of leaves unveil the colorful, bright berries.  The shrub is high-impact visually, a trait that benefits both the viewer and wildlife when planted en masse.   Callicarpa americana, American Beautyberry Since the blooms and berries are borne on new growth, pruning is best done in late winter before leafing out.  Prune down to 6-18” from ground if you’d like to keep the shrub looking its best.  If left unchecked, the shrub can reach up to 8 feet tall and wide.  American beautyberry does tend to get a little scraggly as it ages and benefits from a cleanup each year with removal of dead limbs at the very least.   American beautyberry is considered a pioneer species, often appearing in open areas after land is cleared. This makes it an exceptional beneficial species as it provides a source of nutrient dense food for birds, mammals, and other wildlife in a landscape that could be going through transition and may not have a bounty of food or shelter at that moment in time. Nectar and pollen in early summer blooms attract native bees and butterflies. Pioneer species are generally tough plants that can handle volatile conditions.  Beautyberry is highly tolerant of fire, drought (once established), and heavy browsing by animals. But with the hardy traits comes an intolerance of shade, so it often declines when mid-story vegetation is dense. When planting in the landscape make sure to keep the shrub at the edge of the woods or in open areas.   Callicarpa americana flower close-up American beautyberry is a host plant for the rustic sphinx moth, spring azure butterflies, and snowberry clearwing moths. The fruit are high in moisture content, protein, and fat and provide food to over forty species of songbirds including American robin, cedar waxwings, warblers, finches, and the eastern towhee as well as mammals including armadillo, foxes, opossum, racoon, and squirrels. The fat content in the berries means amazing fuel for migrating birds in fall and winter when the fruit are present. American beautyberry has 70% fat content in the berries--as a comparison spicebush has 50% and native dogwoods have 25%. Asian beautyberries only have somewhere around 5% fat content.   Asian beautyberries were introduced to the US in 1845 and are often found in commercial and home landscapes. (Painters even once carried the Asian variety. We all are learning and growing in our journey!) Not only are they considered invasive, but they can also hybridize with our native beautyberry. The hybridization can weaken the berries' nutritional value, favorable nesting habitat, palatability to host caterpillars, decrease berry size and the overall genetic strength of our native American beautyberry. You can identify Asian beautyberries by their looser fruit clusters that dangle further from the stem and ripen much earlier than the American species (August/early September). The branches on the Asian species are longer and weeping in habit and do not support nesting as much as the native species. One American beautyberry shrub can bear 3-5 pounds of fruit in one season and it’s not just enjoyed by wildlife, but humans as well! The fruit is not juicy, but more of a pithy pulp with a mild sweet taste with spicy notes, similar to Asian five spice. Harvest when the fruit tastes best after nighttime temps have dipped in the low 40s, but before fruit has experienced multiple freezes. You can find several recipes online for extracting the juice and making jelly, here's a great one: Growing Conditions and Quick Facts: Abundant berries from Callicarpa americana NAME: Callos means “beauty” and carpos means “fruit”.  NATIVE RANGE: Distributed through the southeastern United States from Texas east to Maryland.  It grows in the Caribbean and northern Mexico, too. FUN FACT: American beautyberry has antibacterial and pest-deterring properties. Native American tribes used roots, leaves and branches to treat malarial fevers, rheumatism, stomachaches and dysentery. In the early 20th century, farmers would crush the leaves and place them under the harnesses of horses and mules to repel mosquitoes. Crushing leaves and rubbing on your skin can also deter fire ants, ticks, deer flies and mosquitoes.  Some people are allergic to the hairy leaves and it may cause contact dermatitis--make sure you’re not allergic before applying directly to your skin. The two compounds responsible for the repellant are callicarpenal and intermedeol.   GROWING CONDITIONS: SOIL Prefers well-drained, moist soil rich in organic matter, but can tolerate sand or clay soils, too. Appreciates mulch to help keep roots protected and moist while becoming established. Handles a wide range of pH levels (4.8-7.0). SUNLIGHT Full sun is best for fruit production, but can tolerate light shade HEIGHT/WIDTH 3-8’ tall and wide--size can be easily managed with pruning in late winter/early spring ZONES (6)7-10 – American beautyberry is intolerant to cold temperatures in single digits or below, especially in younger more susceptible plants. If growing in zone 6, planting in a container and moving under cover in the winter could be beneficial.

It's no secret chokeberry is a staff favorite here at Painters---each season we carry several different kinds! It's native, ornamental, edible, and birds and pollinators love it! It’s low-maintenance, adaptable to a variety of soil types, and offers beautiful multi-season interest. Plus edible varieties, like the 'Viking' chokeberry offer wide-ranging health benefits for humans. You’ll find Black Chokeberry, Red Chokeberry, and Purple Chokeberry (a cross of red and black) often here at Painters. We love to carry both straight species as well as some beautiful native cultivars.  Chokeberry is a great alternative to brilliantly colored but invasive plants such as nandina or burning bush--it offers similarly brilliant red or orange fall color, and you can find a range of size options amongst the nativars.  Red chokeberry holds its rich red berries well into the winter, but the black and purple chokeberry also have lovely fruit.  The berries are a nutritious food source for many bird species (including the gorgeous cedar waxwing), while the dense growth provides great nesting and shelter habitat.  All three types of chokeberry have lovely spring blooms with pale pink to white flower clusters covering the plant and attracting and feeding butterflies and other pollinators. It's a perfect addition to pollinator gardens or bird-friendly habitats. Chokeberry is truly a hands-off plant.  It has evolved to tolerate a range of conditions - though it does prefer more moist sites and part shade, it can also grow in full sun and drier conditions.  The red chokeberry tends to grow more like a small tree, with a more open habit and bare trunk, so it looks best in the back of gardens or with shorter plants layered in front of it.  Black chokeberry is denser, and several nativars have been cultivated to be low-growing and work well as low hedges.  Even though the shrub is deciduous, it can still be used as an effective privacy hedge due to the dense, suckering habit. While the name doesn’t exactly encourage eating it, the fruit of the Black Chokeberry has been shown to have some pretty amazing benefits to human health. The deep purple fruit ripens in fall and is packed with nutrients and antioxidants. T he fruit is definitely astringent and may make your mouth pucker when eaten fresh, but the flavor is really tasty when sweetened in a jam, wine, or simple syrup.   The 'Viking' nativar is an edible fruiting shrub that was specifically developed for the orchard. In the early 20th century, our native chokeberry was introduced to eastern Europe, Scandinavia, and Russia for berry production. Russia bred the 'Viking' variety by selecting for the largest berries on black chokeberry and that variety is still in cultivation there on thousands of acres for berry production. 'Viking' was re-introduced to the US a couple decades ago and has become a crop also grown on orchards seeking a harvest of Aronia berries.      Read More about a few of our Favorites: Red Chokeberry Aronia arbutifolia NATIVE deciduous shrub (z4-8) full sun, 6-10' tall, 3-6' wide White spring blooms, brilliant fall foliage, attractive winter bark Widely adaptable, tolerant of wet soil Beautiful red berries are tart and bitter but can be used for jams and jellies Red Chokeberry 'Brilliantissima' Aronia arbutifolia 'Brilliantissima' NATIVAR deciduous shrub (z4-9) full-part sun, 6-10' tall, 3-5' wide Brilliant red foliage in fall, white blooms and glossy red berries; excellent wildlife value especially for birds species (including cedar waxwing!). Adaptable and compact, tolerant of a wide range of conditions – preferring more moist sites with part shade, but tolerant of full sun and drier conditions.  A great option for a wildlife friendly hedge or screen. A good native alternative to burning bush or nandina Black chokeberry Aronia melanocarpa NATIVE deciduous shrub (z3-8) full sun-part shade, 3-6' tall and wide White spring flowers, black autumn berries; excellent wildlife value Vibrant orange-purple foliage in fall Tolerant of wet soil, good choice for rain gardens or water margins; spreading habit Black Chokeberry 'Viking' Aronia melanocarpa 'Viking' NATIVAR deciduous fruiting shrub (z3-9) full sun, 3-6' tall and wide Cultivar developed for orchards, with larger fruits than the species; fragrant white spring blooms, and in fall it is a brilliant fiery mix of scarlet and deep orange! Nutrient-rich berries are too tart to eat fresh but perfect for jams and juices Self-fertile so it does not need to be planted with another of its kind to produce fruit and should produce berries for you within three years of age Purple Chokeberry 'Aron' Aronia prunifolia 'Aron' NATIVAR deciduous shrub (z3-8) full sun-part shade, 5-8' tall, 3-6' wide Hybrid of red and black chokeberry with white spring flowers and dark purple summer fruits; superb autumn color Thrives in boggy soil; tolerant of occasional flooding

Edgeworthia is a hidden gem among winter-blooming plants. Many of you may have experienced this shrub's captivating smell and beautiful blooms on a winter visit to the Biltmore Estate. With its delicate flowers, subtle fragrance, and captivating presence, Edgeworthia stands out as a star performer in the cold, dreary months and deserves a place in every garden! Learn more about this unique plant below. Edgeworthia chrysantha , also known as Paperbush or Chinese Paper Bush, is a deciduous shrub that belongs to the Thymelaeaceae family. Native to the woodlands of China and the Himalayas, Edgeworthia has a rich history and has been cultivated for centuries. It is found in its native range along woodlands and stream banks. Chrysantha  references the shrub’s yellow flowers. The common name “Paper bush” or “Rice Paper Plant” is in reference to the bark traditionally used to make paper. It was named after Michael Pakenham Edgeworth, an Irish botanist and plant collector who collected the plant while traveling through India. It doesn’t come as a surprise that Edgeworthia is related to Daphne odora. Daphne is also a fragrant, winter-blooming shrub preferring similar growing conditions. Prized for its gardenia-scented winter blooms and unique form, this shrub makes a great specimen in a dappled shade garden in zones 7-10. Edgeworthia prefers light to moderate shade, plenty of moisture, and well-drained, humus-rich soil. It quickly forms a multi-stemmed, rounded, and somewhat spreading shape, reaching 4-6’ tall and wide. The leaves are long, narrow, and lance-shaped, with a velvety texture that adds to their charm. During summer, the foliage appears as a lush green backdrop to other plants in the garden. Plant this shrub in a prominent spot in your garden near a walkway or porch to allow the fragrance to be enjoyed! If your zone is borderline, plant in a spot that provides protection from winter winds. In winter the flower buds begin to emerge and droop from the tips of the bare branches, and in late February the clusters of tubular blooms open to show a yellow interior. The flowers are accompanied by bright golden stamens that add a touch of vibrancy to the overall display. The blossoms, resembling tiny clusters of delicate tissue paper, lend the plant its common name, Paperbush. The sweet fragrance they emit is reminiscent of a mix between jasmine and honey, creating an alluring sensory experience. This fragrant delight can waft through your garden, attracting and supporting bees and other pollinators even during the chilly winter months. The blooms remain from February to April before the new leaves emerge. After blooming, Edgeworthia continues to provide interest to the garden with its large, dark, blue-green foliage. The large leaves almost look tropical, and in a gentle breeze a silvery hue is exposed on the bottom side of the leaves. One of the most unique aspects of the form is the peculiar branching style - most branching points are in "threes!" In its native regions, Edgeworthia holds cultural significance beyond its ornamental value. It has been used in traditional Chinese and Japanese medicine for its medicinal properties, including treating fever and inflammation. In Japanese culture, it is often associated with purification and used in religious ceremonies.   Winter Care:  Caring for Edgeworthia during winter is relatively straightforward. While the plant is frost tolerant, it benefits from a protective layer of mulch around the base to insulate the roots. In colder climates, you can also cover it with burlap or a frost cloth during severe freezes. Pruning is typically done after flowering, allowing the shrub to develop new growth for the following year's blooms. Pruning and Maintenance:  Edgeworthia requires minimal pruning. After flowering, remove any dead or damaged wood and lightly shape the plant if necessary. Avoid hard pruning, as it can reduce next season's blooms. Edgeworthia is relatively pest and disease resistant, making it a low-maintenance addition to the garden. Find them at Painters! As always, sizes, prices, and current stock can be found on our Tree and Shrub Availability Page:

Demand for this humble, easy-to-grow native plant continues to grow. Beloved for its beauty, planting this pollinator friendly plant is also a great way to support wildlife. With growing demand comes new varieties. Some are 'nativars' (a variant of the native species brought into cultivation), and some are hybrids (crosses between two different coneflower species). And of course, there is the popularity of old-timey nativars and straight species natives that have been enjoyed for decades. Growers breeding new cultivars are continually introducing new options each year--and while all are lovely, we like to note what varieties perform best in trial gardens as well as test them in our own. Many of the more vividly colored cultivars can be stunning but act more like an annual or short-lived perennial compared with the longer-lived, more vigorous growth habits of the natives and nativars. Each year we determine which coneflowers to grow based on the information we've read and observed and here are just a few of our favorites from this year! We'd love to hear from you as to which varieties perform best in your gardens! Why are most coneflowers so low maintenance in the garden? Read our blog post, Why We Love Native Plants to find out! Echinacea purpurea with a bee 1. Echinacea purpurea, Purple Coneflower When you think of coneflower this is probably the variety that first comes to mind. A popular perennial in North Carolina gardens, purple coneflower doesn’t occur in the wild very often anymore, due to habitat destruction. This sun-loving plant produces purple flowers with dark orange centers from June to August. A straight species with no artificial selection or alteration, it's great for wildlife, has a self-seeding habit and long bloom period, and the drought tolerance makes it a favorite of beginners and professionals alike. We also enjoy E. purpurea 'Magnus', a nativar very close to the straight species purple that was selected for larger blooms with more upright petals. Native Area: Central and southeastern U.S. USDA Growing Zones : 3 to 8 Height: 2 to 5 feet Width: 1 to 2 feet Soil: Average, well-draining, drought tolerant once established Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade Bloom Time: mid-late summer Native: Yes Cheyenne Spirit coneflowers 2. Echinacea 'Cheyenne Spirit' It is impossible not to fall in love with the wide assortment of hues found in this cultivar of coneflower--you'll often find multiple colors on a single plant! The blooms emerge in peachy oranges, buttery yellows, creams, bold reds, neon pinks, bright tangerines and more, and will be an instant show-stopper in your garden. Pollinators and birds love it as well! Native Area: Cultivar USDA Growing Zones : 4a to 9a Height: 12 to 30 inches Width: 18 to 20 inches Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade Bloom Time: June - August Native: Cultivar Tennessee Coneflower 3. Echinacea tennesseensis 'Rocky Top' Tennessee coneflower 'Rocky Top' We love the delicate petals on one of the nation's rarest wildflowers. 'Rocky Top' is a cultivar of this endangered species, known only to exist naturally near Nashville, TN. The 'Rocky Top' nativar has larger flowers and a more compact habit than the straight species. Avoid planting it with other coneflower varieties as they may crowd out this beautiful native. Native Area: Tennessee USDA Growing Zones : 3 to 9 Height: 1 to 2 feet Width: 1 to 2 feet Soil: Average, well-draining, drought tolerant once established Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade Bloom Time: June-August Native: Yes 4. Echinacea 'Sombrero Poco Hot Coral' The Sombrero Series of cultivars introduced by Darwin Perennials has many colors, including pink, white, yellow, and orange. It's a hybrid developed in Illinois in 2007, and got its name because the center cone is purportedly shaped like a sombrero. The bloom colors are very rich with little fading. This vivid coneflower will produce large, profuse orange-red flowers bloom from early summer to frost. Native Area: Cultivar USDA Growing Zones : 4 to 9 Height: 1 to 2 feet Width: 1 to 2 feet Soil: Average, well-draining, drought tolerant once established Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade Bloom Time: Late spring to late summer Native: Cultivar 5. Echinacea purpurea 'Pow Wow White' Producing bountiful bright white blooms that arch downward, this more compact selection blooms from late spring to late summer and may even surprise you with a few sporadic blooms until first frost. We especially love planting this variety with black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckias) as they contrast dramatically. Native Area: Central and southeastern U.S. USDA Growing Zones : 3 to 9 Height: 18 to 24 inches Width: 12 to 18 inches Soil: Average, well-draining, drought tolerant once established Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade Bloom Time: June - August Native: Nativar 6. Echinacea purpurea 'Prairie Splendor Deep Rose' This is a more compact selection of purple coneflower that will reach a maximum height of 2 feet. Featuring rich rose/magenta colored petals surrounding an orange cone, these make beautiful cut flowers--either on their own or in an arrangement. An award-winning variety with large pink flowers early summer to fall--the longest-blooming of all coneflower cultivars!--makes this a popular choice for those desiring coneflower blooms throughout the seasons. Plus the size means they can also fit in a variety of garden locations (front vs middle of beds or in smaller spaces). Native Area: Central and southeastern U.S. USDA Growing Zones : 3 to 9 Height: 2 feet Width: 2 feet Soil: Average, well-draining, drought tolerant once established Sun Exposure: Full sun Bloom Time: June-August Native: Nativar 7. Echinacea pallida, Pale purple coneflower A fabulous cut flower, the elegant, slender, pale pink dropping petals surround a prominent central cone. Pale purple coneflower attracts hummingbirds, bumblebees, honey bees, butterflies, and skippers. Plus the seed heads attract songbirds throughout fall and winter. This native is super tough--once the taproot is established it is extremely drought and heat tolerant and needs little care. Freely self-seeds. Native Area: Central and eastern U.S. USDA Growing Zones : 3 to 10 Height: 2 to 3 feet Width: 1 to 2 feet Soil: Tolerant of poor soil and very drought tolerant once established Sun Exposure: Full sun Bloom Time: Early summer - early fall Native: Yes Plus if you are seeking more radiant colors for your gardens, find the following nativars and hybrids at Painters this spring: Echinacea purpurea  'Green Twister' -- unusual two-toned flowers in shades of light green and magenta Echinacea purpurea  'Mellow Yellows' -- glorious yellows bloom summer to fall, maturing from orangey canary to lemony cream And hybrids: 'Butterfly Rainbow Marcella' -- sunset hues emerge coral-orange, maturing to rose-pink 'Moodz Imagination' -- loadz of bright pink flowerz 'Flame Thrower' -- dynamic, multicolored foliage, an absolute show-stopper; leaves emerge purply, maturing through shades of red to bright green to yellow 'Kismet Red' -- Abundant, deep red flowers summer to frost 'Tangerine Dream' -- fragrant, elegantly curved, orange blooms Updated and republished 04/2025 For sizes, prices, and current stock, see our Growing Lists: https://www.paintersgreenhouse.com/growinglist

How many of you think of vegetable gardening as just a spring thing? That’s what we used to think in Pennsylvania, but since moving to NC (15 years ago) we have been pleasantly surprised at how well certain crops perform in the fall. For example, we never bother to grow broccoli in the spring since our springs tend to get too hot too quickly, causing it to bolt and develop a stronger flavor. Many other edibles also do best in cooler weather. Another great advantage we’ve found is fewer pests and diseases on the crops we plant in the fall. To continue enjoying fresh veggies into the late fall/early winter (lettuces, arugula, kale, collards spinach, mustard, broccoli, etc.), September is the time to plant these crops in your garden. If you decide to start your fall veggies from seed (either indoors for transplanting later or direct seeding in the garden outside), most of them should be sown in July or August, depending on the number of days to maturity (typically listed by the seed company/on the packet). We have a variety of veggie starts sown and grown here at Painters that are ready to be planted right now for production this fall and winter. When you plant a fall garden, you need to take into consideration your average first frost date and choose varieties that will either mature before then or those that are cold hardy. Our customers’ zones range anywhere from Zone 5 (for those at high elevations) to Zone 8, with most folks falling in the Zone 7 or 7a range. Many veggies actually taste better after a mild frost (such as Collards and Kohlrabi). There is often a wide range in days to maturity, so keep that in mind and choose earlier maturing varieties for the fall. All the selections that we are offering this year range between 30-58 days and most of them are dual season crops, meaning they can be planted in spring or fall. (We even have a short-season summer squash, 'Dixie', that we've tried - they are already starting to set fruit, and for those of you who love stuffed squash blooms, they're covered in gorgeous flowers right now!) Some fall vegetables can also be planted in containers, allowing you to move them indoors to a sunny spot once temperatures drop too low (this is a great option for most greens and herbs). So, for those who enjoy extending their growing season in order to enjoy home grown veggies longer, consider growing or expanding your fall vegetable garden. You can have the double benefit of knowing you are eating fresher, healthier, pesticide-free produce as well as saving on those ever-rising grocery bills!

What's better - native straight species or nativars, which do pollinators prefer, and what the heck is the difference anyway? As proponents of growing native plants, we are excited to see increased interest in them these past few years. We continue to expand and evolve our native plant offerings each season, and do our best to grow both what we think is important from a biodiversity standpoint as well as what our customers are wanting. It can be hard marketing some natives as they may not look like much as a young potted plant, so there's a big market for selling native cultivars with increased ornamental appeal. However, in recent years, we've had many customers ask us to grow more straight species natives. As we've observed native flowers in our gardens as well as those blooming in our greenhouses this summer, we've taken note of which plants seem to be attracting the most pollinators. This led us to doing a bit of research, and we wanted to share our take-away regarding natives versus native cultivars, as it is far from black and white! First, let’s review some common plant terms that can be a bit confusing! NATIVE PLANT AKA 'straight species': A plant species that occurs naturally in a particular region, habitat, or ecosystem. CULTIVAR A cultivated variety of a straight species plant - it is a result of artificial selection; humans selected it for a trait perceived as better than those regularly found. The chosen plant is then propagated asexually (taking a cutting or root division to generate new plants that are genetically identical). Some cultivars are found as a “sport” or genetic mutation of the species in the wild, but many are the result of selective breeding by growers. NATIVAR A term used to describe native cultivars - the nativars we sell are typically pretty similar to their straight species parent but all nativars result from some level of artificial selection. HYBRID PLANT The result of a genetic cross between two different plant species - they can sometimes occur naturally, but typically they are the result of breeding by growers. The vast majority of what you see in most garden centers and gardens are hybrids of some sort - many of which have been bred over decades or even centuries! Some hybrids may be crosses of two native species and therefore still provide some great ecological benefits, so they are not always the least beneficial choice for a wildlife garden. INVASIVE PLANT Species that are non-native (often introduced from another continent) and able to establish in a variety of growing sites where they grow quickly and spread fast enough to disrupt and displace the naturally occurring plant and wildlife communities. What do the names mean on a typical plant label? On our labels, we typically start with the common name of the plant in regular text followed by a cultivar/variety name in quotes, then the scientific name (genera and species) in italics. For a thorough rundown on plant terminology, click here to read more about plant nomenclature. Native cultivars (aka 'Nativars') are all derived from native species - they have simply undergone some level of selection. This varies from basic selection (finding a unique variant in the wild and propagating it) to further selection within a breeding program (for enhanced disease resistance, improved growth habit, different bloom colors, etc.), but all nativars still maintain the same scientific classification as the straight species. It is important to remember that when you purchase a nativar or a hybrid, the seed will not be true to the parent - a native straight species may self-sow in your yard, but your nativar will not propagate naturally (you may have babies pop up nearby, but they will likely have reverted to be closer to the parent straight species). So, are nativars less beneficial for the environment than straight species? Nativars that have undergone extensive selection are not harmful - they just may not be as beneficial to wildlife as the straight species (the same goes for most hybrids). It is important to consider that straight species natives are directly contributing to biodiversity and are typically preferred and more accessible food for wildlife. Most cultivars have been selected primarily for ornamental traits, and if bred extensively to enhance these traits, some of their ecological benefits may be compromised in comparison to the straight species. Many nativars that have been significantly manipulated were found to be less attractive to pollinators (see Dr. Annie White’s research). Tom Tribble of the Blue Ridge Audubon shared with us that many non-natives and hybrids are often providing significantly less protein content in their nuts and berries to our local birds. Gaillardia single bloom, photo by Dana Owen. Gaillardia double blooming. www.plant-world-seeds.com A prime example of a highly altered nativars are varieties of double bloomed blanket flower with tubular petals such as ‘Fanfare’ or 'Double Sunset' - very interesting to look at, but it makes the nectar much harder to access. The many vibrant orange and red shades of newer coneflower cultivars and hybrids are often not as appealing to bees as the native straight species alternatives (they prefer violet tones and therefore the purple of Echinacea purpurea or tennesseensis ). And the darker-leafed nativars of ninebark species are less likely to be eaten than the green-leafed straight species (which may mean you have more tidy looking shrubs, but also means you are providing less food for insects that typically depend on it). Lobelia cardinalis 'Black Truffle'. www.plantsnouveau.com Lobelia cardinalis. Photo by Dana Owen. However there are many less altered nativars that are still very beneficial and equally desirable to pollinators. The many studies being done in this area seem to show that every cultivar needs to be considered on a case by case basis - some are actually shown to be equally beneficial, while many others have decreased appeal or benefits to pollinators or birds. Dr. Tallamy’s research has shown some cultivars such as Agastache 'Golden Jubilee' to be more beneficial than some other straight species Agastache (though less appealing to pollinators than its native parent Agastache foeniculum .) He also found that pollinators were attracted to ‘Hello Yellow’ Butterfly weed just as much as its bright orange straight species parent Asclepias tuberosa. And 'Black Truffle' Lobelia cardinalis showed equal support of pollinators when compared with its straight species parent, the green-leafed cardinal flower. Another researcher, Keith Nevison found that the garden phlox nativar ‘Jeana’ actually attracts far more pollinators than the straight species parent Phlox paniculata. In general, it seems the key to maintaining pollinator friendly nativars is minimal manipulation, with the understanding that it completely depends on the type of plant as to what alterations may decrease wildlife appeal/support. At Painters, we try to carry minimal cultivars with heavier modification - most are very close to their natural-found counterparts. We plan to make a list of nativars that have demonstrated relatively equal (if not better) pollinator/wildlife benefits, and hope to grow as many as we can here at Painters in addition to the wide selection of straight species options that we offer. For those of you looking to restore and preserve native habitat and wildlife with your plantings (especially if you’re doing a large-scale pollinator/wildlife garden), the more straight species natives you plant, the better. If you’re working with smaller spaces or specific garden designs, more nativars and hybrids may be better suited, but we encourage you to try a few straight species to balance out those that may be less beneficial. Note that many annuals and herbs are also great pollen and nectar sources for pollinators and birds, so don’t be afraid to incorporate beneficial and beautiful annuals such as zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, Mexican Sunflower, borage and basil if you're gardening with pollinators in mind! Finally, it is important to note that planting a native tree is the best possible thing you can do to support pollinators - we tend to think about pollen and nectar sources for adults but often overlook the necessity of host plants that feed the larvae. Native oaks, cherries and willows are excellent options - feeding up to 532 species of caterpillars! This is also incredibly important for bird diversity as they rely on those caterpillars to feed their young! (Check out one of our favorite native plant enthusiasts on Instagram as he talks about the importance of oak trees and other native species!) Keep in mind that while we try to grow a wide selection of natives and nativars, including a variety of straight species options, it is you, the customer, that drives the market. Many straight species can become tall, floppy or just not be flowering at the time of purchase and therefore typically don’t market nearly as well as cultivars. Want to see Painters and other garden centers grow/sell more straight species plants? Then please request them and purchase them instead of their cultivars or more showy hybrids so we can continue to expand our straight species native selection! Resources https://www.gardencentermag.com/article/natives-vs-nativars-the-need-for-both/ www.instagram.com/nativehabitatproject/ https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/native-species-or-cultivars-of-native-plants-does-it-matter/ https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/a-gardeners-guide-to-plant-nomenclature-part-ii/

Welp. It's getting cold. As it does. And if you are anything like me, procrastination might could be a lifelong companion. Or millstone! But as long as I can give myself grace, I learn that late is better than never and I am my own harshest critic. [ Platitude. platitude. platitude. ] But really, who’s to say what NEEDS to be done? Who's to say I shouldn’t spend the last crisp days of fall preening among the changing hues? Who’s to say I can’t lark about these rustling leaves? Or spend myself well up a mountain? I will return to my own sweet tasks eventually. There is time for chores yet!  So if you are like me, good lentil-weaver, here’s your (belated) fall checklist. Do what you want!  ☐ First off, leave the leaves! Huzzah! Your free spirit has not led you astray. It is merely the evolution of your journey. Let those leaves lie. The birds, the moths, the fireflies will thank you for it. ( A short and helpful article on the most valuable plants to leave for winter habitat protection .) ☐ If your split personality demands a bit more tidy, you can assuage those gremlins a bit. Go ahead and gently rake or blow the leaves to a side space. Better yet, pile them on the garden beds to retain nutrients and insulate the soil. (Just as with all mulching practices, don’t pile them directly around the base of trees and shrubs. You want to allow space to prevent rot or disease.) We used to recommend shredding your leaves as one option, and while it does allow for efficient leaf breakdown--adding nutrients and speedy soil creation-- new studies are showing  what we can deduce with our own good brains: shredding the leaf matter includes shredding the cocoons, the eggs, and the larvae of beneficial insect populations. If possible, gently move the leaf matter to an area where this winter habitat can help our insect friends. A few inches high is optimal. ☐ It’s sure starting to get frosty. Empty, clean, and store planters and pottery. If you don’t have a good sheltered location, you can turn them upside down–you just don’t want them to collect rain or snow and then freeze and crack. ☐ Plant those bulbs you’ve almost forgotten about. Or you could try forcing them in pots. Here’s a real quick how and why:   Didn't get your bulbs planted? - Indiana Yard and Garden . ☐ If you haven’t already, attend to your watering system. In my case, I drain and disconnect garden hoses and close up the water spigots. You might have something fancier. Do the winterizing.  ☐ Same for your rain barrels. ☐ Same for your birdbaths.  ☐ Clean, oil, and/or sharpen any needed tools. You might say you’ll do this in the spring, but you won’t. You will be too excited to get started.  ☐ Keep checking those houseplants you brought inside. It’s usually best to quarantine them from the other indoor plants for a month or so in the case of bugs or pests. But if, like me, you don’t have enough space or sunlight for that, be vigilant! Pests happen. Don't take it personally. Here 's a helpful link for identifying and dealing with the houseplant cooties: https://www.gardenstead.com/how-i-deal-with-houseplant-pests/ ☐ Sow any seeds that require cold stratification. Don’t forget to cover with a bit of soil or compost so as not to simply be strewing birdseed à la  Disney princess.  (But if you want to Disney-princess it up, I'm not stopping you. The mice and birds would love it.) ☐ You probably should have already. ( Safe space – no judgement here !) But if you haven't dug up any tender plants, tubers, or bulbs for indoor storage, you maybe should get on that. It might be too late for those that couldn't survive the cold weather, but I'm not your mother. Do what you want! ☐ Water evergreen shrubs and trees thoroughly before winter to prevent desiccation or winter burn. Luckily, WNC generally gets enough rainfall to support plants in dormancy (they naturally require less water), but keep an eye on your newly planted evergreens specifically. You want consistently moist soil – not saturated – until the ground freezes. Read more in this link. Learning is fun. ☐ Enjoy your garden in its full crunchy splendor. You did this!  ☐ Go inside now. You're probably a little chilled. Maybe make some pumpkin bread. Brew some tea. Read a book–here’s one I loved: https://margaretrenkl.com/the-comfort-of-crows/ ... ☐ Or anything else. You are a non-conformer! Throw away this list. You don't need lists! Do what you want!

Camellias are showy and fragrant broadleaf evergreen shrubs in the Tea family. The species of Camellias available at Painters bloom in late fall and winter, making it a star in the landscape while many other ornamental plants are entering dormancy. Japanese camellia Camellia japonica This species of camellia probably has the most cultivar selections of any broadleaf evergreen tree or shrub – up to 30,000 worldwide! Japanese camellias grow in a dense pyramidal shape with leathery lustrous green leaves. Since camellias are evergreens, the leaves provide a great backdrop for the 3-5” blooms. The blooms range in color from white to red, with many shades and bloom forms in between. The blooms are frost sensitive and will turn to mush on cold nights. This plant looks best scattered along a landscape or woodland edge. USDA Growing Zones: 7-9/10 Bloom Time: November/December; some in April Height: 10-15 feet Spread: 6-10 feet Sun Exposure: Partial shade Soil Needs: moisture retentive acidic soil Tips: The right plant in the right place: plant in partial shade (pine shade preferred), in moisture retentive acidic soil. Protect from sweeping winds. If you are in a colder area of WNC (zone 6-7), then you may want to plant near a warm building for additional protection and warmth. Varieties Available in Fall 2022: 'White Perfection' – beautiful double white blooms in spring (April) For sizes, prices, and current stock, see our Tree and Shrub Availability Page: https://www.paintersgreenhouse.com/tree-shrub-availability Camellia sasanqua Less formal in habit than Japanese camellias as it has a more loose, rounded shape with arching branches. C. sasanqua has a finer texture and more reliable blooms since the flowers open a bit earlier than C. japonica . Flowers are usually single, not double, and range in colors from white, pink and red. Some start blooming as early as September and often last into December. C. sasanqua is more sun tolerant than C. japonica and can handle full sun to part shade. Very adaptable in various soil types and can grow in clay, loam or sandy soils. If you have heavy clay soils prone to wet conditions, choose a sasanqua variety because it's more resistant to Phytophthora root rot! USDA Growing Zones: 7-9/10 Bloom Time: September-December Height: 6-10 feet Spread: 6-10 feet Sun Exposure: Full sun-partial shade Soil Needs: Adaptable - clay, sandy, or loamy Varieties Available for Fall 2022: 'Winter's Star' - single, violet-pink blooms in fall 'Yuletide' - large, bright-red single blooms in fall/winter For sizes, prices, and current stock, see our Tree and Shrub Availability Page: https://www.paintersgreenhouse.com/tree-shrub-availability Wabisuke Camellia, wilsonbrosgardens.com Wabisuke camellia Camellia x wabiske A compact, hybrid camellia popular in Japan due to smaller bloom sizes, which were typically preferred in Japanese tea ceremonies. More similar in care and growing preferences to C. japonica. A rare camellia! USDA Growing Zones: 7-9 Bloom Time: November-March Height: 6-10 feet Spread: 6-8 feet Sun Exposure: Morning Sun with Afternoon Shade or Filtered Sun, All Day Filtered Sun Soil Needs: Moist But Well Drained Varieties Available for Fall 2022: 'Sagamio Wabisuke' – semi-double bloom, pale purplish-pink with darker colored margin. Blooms from November-March. Name translates to "pure and never ending love." This camellia is loaded with buds! For sizes, prices, and current stock, see our Tree and Shrub Availability Page: https://www.paintersgreenhouse.com/tree-shrub-availability About our tree and shrub program: Each year Painters is proud to offer a broad and beautiful selection of shrubs and trees. We ensure the highest quality and regional suitability by carefully curating our plants. And while we propagate many shrubs right here in our greenhouse, we source the larger, slower-growing shrubs and trees from local wholesale nurseries and native plant growers within a day's drive. Purchasing from regional growers ensures the plants have been raised in a similar climate and plant health isn't affected from shipping long distances.​ Plus we love connecting with other fabulous local growers!

Enjoy this highlight of two great natives we received from Mellow Marsh Farms in Siler City, NC: Spicebush Lindera benzoin and American Beech Fagus grandifolia.   We were able to source over 600 one-gallon sized native trees and shrubs from this great local grower for our Fall 2022 Season! About our tree and shrub program: Each year Painters is proud to offer a broad and beautiful selection of shrubs and trees. We ensure the highest quality and regional suitability by carefully curating our plants. And while we propagate many shrubs right here in our greenhouse, we source the larger, slower-growing shrubs and trees from local wholesale nurseries and native plant growers within a day's drive. Purchasing from regional growers, like Mellow March Farms, ensures the plants have been raised in a similar climate and plant health isn't affected from shipping long distances.​ Plus we love connecting with other fabulous local growers! Lindera benzoin - Spicebush (photo NC State Extension) Lindera benzoin - Spicebush Deciduous shrub 8-15' tall/wide Part shade Spicebush is a beautiful shrub that offers a lot in terms of wildlife food, landscape use, and an uncommon bloom time in your garden! It is naturally found in moist woodlands, think stream banks, bottomlands and rich cove forests. Their tiny yellow blooms can create a yellow-hazy appearance in the understory of woods. Their early bloom time (early March) is important to pollinators at a time when flowers are scarce this early in the season. All parts of this shrub have aromatic oils that give it a strong citrusy smell, especially when the leaves are crushed. Spicebush is dioecious, meaning there are separate male and female plants. The female plants create red berries that are favored by thrushes, upland game birds and songbirds, especially during fall migration. It can be challenging to tell if a spicebush plant is male or female if not purchased during bloom time or during berry production. Spicebush Swallowtail Caterpillar (Photo: NC State Extension) Spicebush (along with other plants in the laurel family) also supports larvae of the Palamedes and Spicebush Swallowtail butterflies - larva is best known for their "ferocious" eyespots! Traditionally, spicebush berries were dried and used as a spice to help season strong flavored meats (truly a unique and delicious flavor still regularly used in many cuisines), while the leaves were used for tea. Plant spicebush if you would like a plant for part shade, that's aromatic, blooms yellow in late winter, has yellow fall color, and supports wildlife. American Beech, display of marcescent (Photo: Gardenia.net) Fagus grandifolia - American Beech Deciduous slow-moderate growing tree 50-70' tall, 40' wide Full sun The American Beech holds a special place in many hearts. Known for its wide-spreading canopy densely packed with delicate branching, beautiful golden bronze fall color, and smooth taut bark (which is sadly often vandalized). It is a wonderful shade tree and provides many benefits. While slow to mature, slow and steady wins the race as it can grow over 80 feet and live for 300+ years! The fruit, beechnuts, are formed when the tree ages 40+ years and provides food for birds and mammals such as chipmunks and squirrels. Early settlers believed the American Beech was a sign of fertile soil and would use the tree as an indicator of where to settle, plow and farm. One favorite trait is how the leaves hang on for so long before dropping - a term called "marcescent". The holding of leaves through winter protects the buds from drying in the winter cold and can deter browsing by deer. It also helps with wintertime tree identification when all leaves have dropped from neighboring woodland species! And the sound of leaves rustling in a cold winter breeze is always welcome. American Beech fall color (Photo: Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center) A passage from arborday.org : There was a Beech tree on the old stage road between Blountville and Jonesborough, Tennessee that had an inscription carved into the trunk that read "D. Boone Cilled A Bar On Tree In Year 1760." (Killed a bear.) The tree fell in 1916 and had a girth of 28-1/2 feet. The Forest Service estimated the tree’s age to be 365 years, making it fully two centuries old before Daniel Boone inscribed on it.

Are you looking to create beautiful gardens that are also beneficial for pollinators and birds? We grow an extensive selection of plants that offer both benefits; many natives in particular have blooms that are an excellent source of nectar for pollinators, that then age to provide bountiful seed for birds. We call them 'birdseed perennials!' The most critical part of providing essential food for resident and migrating birds is that you shouldn't clean up their food before they've eaten it! We've been trained to keep our gardens manicured in all seasons, and it's hard to break those habits. Your yard can still be a lovely space if you haven't deadheaded spent blooms and brown seed heads. These old blooms, stems and leaves offer texture and movement in your landscape and provide much needed shelter and food for birds and insects throughout the cold months. Here are some of our favorite perennial bird seed producers (most of which are also excellent sources of pollen while blooms are fresh) - all are native to WNC. Goldenrod, Solidago rugosa & others Zone 2-9 18-24'' tall & 8-12'' wide Full sun Drought tolerant once established Plumes of bright yellow flowers mid-summer to fall, excellent late-season pollinator support Birds supported by the seed: American goldfinch, black-capped chickadee, Carolina wren, dark-eyed junco, indigo bunting, northern cardinal, pine siskin, tufted titmouse, white-throated sparrow Coneflowers, Echinacea purpurea, E. pallida, E. tennesseensis & others Zone 4-9 2-3' tall & 1-2' wide Full sun Showy blooms June-September are great pollinator support Birds supported by the seed: goldfinches, chickadees, blue jays, juncos, mourning doves, cardinals, pine siskins (You'll notice that we left our aging blooms on our coneflower & other perennials this fall - they may not be as 'tidy' looking on the tables, but we regularly have bird visitors feeding!) Black & Brown-eyed Susans, Rudbeckia hirta or triloba Zone 3-9 18-24" tall & wide Full sun Colorful & long blooming, great pollinator support, often self-seed & naturalize Birds supported by the seed: goldfinches, chickadees, cardinals, nuthatches Sedum 'Autumn Joy' or 'Autumn Fire', Hylotelephium telephium Zone 4-11 1-2' tall & wide Full sun Tall bloom spikes emerge white in summer & age to red in fall, beloved by pollinators Birds supported by the seed: Chickadees, finches, grosbeaks, siskins Lanceleaf Coreopsis (and others), Coreopsis lanceolata Zone 4-9 1-2' tall & wide Full sun Bright yellow flowers in summer loved by pollinators, self-seeding Birds supported by the seed: cardinals, chickadees, goldfinches, sparrows New England Aster, Symphyotrichum novae-angliae Zone 3-8 16-24" tall & wide Full to part sun Profuse blue-purple blooms late summer to fall serve as important nectar for pollinators Birds supported by the seed: American goldfinch, black-capped chickadee, blue jay, dark-eyed junco, eastern towhee, northern cardinal, white-breasted nuthatch Little Bluestem, Schizachyrium scoparium & other native grasses Zone 4-10 2-3' tall & 1-2' wide Full sun Lovely texture & color in landscape, especially in fall Birds supported by the seed: doves, finches, juncos, sparrows We carry a variety of native grasses that are appreciated by birds. Joe Pye Weed, Eutrochium maculatum & others Zone 4-8 3-7' tall, 3-4' wide (depending on species/cultivar) Full sun Large showy purple blooms summer-fall, great for pollinators Birds supported by the seed: American goldfinch, Carolina wren, dark-eyed junco, tufted titmouse Source: https://www.bhg.com/gardening/design/nature-lovers/seedy-plants-for-birds/

By Painters Co-Owner Dana Owen, featuring advice and photos by Angela Esmond PLANTING TIPS FOR IDEAL WILDLIFE BENEFIT & AESTHETIC ENJOYMENT A wildlife garden can be just as attractive to people as it is to wildlife!” --the National Wildlife Federation A well-designed wildlife garden can enhance your wildlife habitat, benefit pollinators, and also improve ground water quality through natural filtration. When planned according to your naturally occurring conditions and using mostly natives, it can be relatively low maintenance, being more likely to flourish with less amendments or irrigation. We have a lot of beautiful native plants that do great in our native clay-rich soils without any amendment. Identify and work with what you have and use the appropriate natives for those circumstances, and you will save yourself a lot of aggravation, money and wasted resources!  (Don’t do what I did and try for years to convert a field of blue clay into a rich, garden soil! Be smart about it and instead plan for a beneficial wetland/rain garden!)  RIGHT PLANT FOR THE RIGHT PLACE First, you do of course need to do your research to determine what type of environment you have for each of your garden spaces --maybe you have a mix! You could have a forest environment with almost full shade and rich mulchy soil, or a full sun area with sandy soil, and/or even possibly a wet, clay dense area with poor drainage. You want to reduce your frustration, time and expenses by determining this first so that you are planting the right plants for the right location. You may have limited space with all of the same sun exposure and soil type, but most yards contain several different microhabitats and you therefore need to plan several different gardens accordingly. If you’re new to this, just choose one space to start with … it’s easy to get overwhelmed and be unrealistic about the amount of work each garden can involve, especially if you need to amend your soil, work with a lot of rock, or remove a lot of invasives! Do a soil test, perform a basic test on how long your soil holds water, observe how many hours of direct sun you get in the location, and take the time to do your homework up front - trust me, it pays off! Work with what colors and shapes you already see occurring in your space - if you have a lot of certain color or texture already occurring naturally (or with your home or other structures), amplify that with complimentary textures or patterns. Mass plantings are very critical for pollinator support - we need to ensure that the insect has enough food. The added benefit is that all plants look best planted en masse - you get a big impact with a large swath of red bee balm, and it looks even better and provides even more ecological benefit if you repeat that species in several mass plantings through the space. If you don’t have a giant yard, choose just a few of your favorite pollinator plants and plant in groupings of 5+ plants rather than mixing a huge variety of beneficial plants in just ones or twos (many pollinator plants do well in container gardens also - just make sure to read how large they get at maturity and plan appropriately). Be sure to incorporate multiple heights , even if working with a small space. Ideally, you incorporate a few native trees as well as a variety of native shrubs of varying heights, but this will depend on the size of your space. Focus on more low to medium height plants with the taller plants as your backdrops and highlights. Make sure you are aware of the mature size of each plant when designing - it may start small, but next season it could block out some lovely shorter species behind it. Some native herbaceous plants can get very tall and sometimes a bit floppy (you can stake them, but you can also plan to plant sturdy shrubs nearby or shorter, stockier plants and grasses around them to help support them). Vines are a wonderful way to add height to your gardens and are great for smaller spaces; native honeysuckle, clematis or crossvine can provide excellent food sources for moths and hummingbirds as well as add a lot of color and beauty to your space. (Space is important but you can have a lot of impact with good selection. Remember that that one oak tree can feed over 500 species of caterpillars and support hundreds of birds and other wildlife! Native pawpaws, persimmons, black cherries, and serviceberries are all excellent support for birds, caterpillars, and butterflies as well as creating tasty produce!) In addition to planning for a variety of heights (and placing plants appropriately), we encourage you to play around with texture . I never was a fan of grasses until I visited some native landscapes with mass plantings of a variety of mature grasses, or saw them planted as a border. Grass seed heads can be more beautiful than many flowers, and many have a wide range of colors presented on their foliage, creating some lovely contrasts. They also create movement in the garden, swaying and sometimes creating soft sounds in the wind. Grasses are essential habitat for overwintering native solitary bees, and provide food and shelter for a range of wildlife. You can also increase textural interest by including a range of flower shapes - this is not only beautiful, but helps support a range of bee and other pollinator species (long-tongued bees love foxglove, while short tongued bees prefer plants like forget-me-nots). Water features of any type add great visual interest to the garden as well as providing an essential resource to wildlife of all kinds. A basic birdbath or bee bath is extremely helpful, and you don’t have to dig a massive water garden to enjoy a variety of aquatic plants and attract and support aquatic insects, amphibians and other wildlife that feeds on them. We encourage you to play around with water gardens, but incorporating a bird bath is something very simple and inexpensive that everyone should do - make sure to keep the water only about an inch deep and check it daily as it will dry up quickly in the heat. Placing some pebbles throughout is helpful for bees. If you have an area where moisture collects, work with it - dig the space out and allow water to pool, then plant the edges and moist soil surrounding it with species such as willows, buttonbush, winterberries, sedges, and rushes as well as blooming moisture lovers like cardinal flower, obedient plant, turtlehead and flag iris. Plan for blooms and seed heads or colorful bark and leaves throughout the seasons - this not only means you will have a diversity of plants which can support a diversity of wildlife, but also provides garden interest throughout the year for you to enjoy. Consider adding more of certain colors based on their benefits to wildlife - for instance bees are attracted to blue and violet shades (they see in ultraviolet!). If you prefer a more tidy and formal appearance, consider edging your gardens, creating paths, and sticking with more limited color palettes (you can still create a highly beneficial garden with only a few colors if you choose a range of beneficial species within that palette). Hedging can be beneficial for wildlife while also providing a more formal or organized appearance. We encourage using native plants for the hedge so you provide the best food sources for wildlife as well as shelter - a hedge of mixed species with different periods of flowering and fruiting will be most beneficial, and you can also incorporate small hedges or mass border plantings with species like lavender or rosemary which provide great nectar sources as well as a beautiful border option. When planting native /a majority native, then you want to plant the way they would naturally occur - this means planting more densely than you may have otherwise planned or been trained. Yes, you may sometimes get some mildew, but in general most natives are used to growing densely and in a great diversity of species - they support one another structurally, create a natural ‘mulch’/defense against invasives, and overall work well when planted thickly if done so in the appropriate light and soil. An additional critical benefit of planting more densely is aiding in groundwater filtration and creating cleaner water for our communities. National Wildlife Federation’s guidelines for height groupings when planning: Structural plants (backbones of your design - trees, shrubs and taller perennials), should take up about 10-15% of your space. They provide shelter and food sources for birds and insects as well as general physical structure, shade and possible screening/privacy benefits. A variety of colorful flowering plants providing pollinator benefits and beauty should be varied based on early/mid/late blooming periods and take up about 25-40% of your area. Groundcover and border plants should act as the ‘green mulch’ of your gardens - these can act as a natural weed prevention (though some natives useful for this are often thought of as weeds such as clover), and they play a very important ecological role and can provide not only pollen sources but erosion control. Ideally these should consume up to 50% of your space (especially if replacing some lawn). Filler plants are shorter lived/annuals that serve to fill in gaps, helping to suppress weeds/unwanted plants and providing color and nectar sources - these should take up to 10% of your area… likely less as the perennials mature, but these often create a nature seed bank for a beautiful long-term pollinator garden. WHAT WE NEED FOR AN IDEAL POLLINATOR HABITAT Nectar sources can include many annuals, non-natives and herbs Larval Host Plants : natives species that can feed a range of caterpillars and other larvae Water sources --you wouldn’t believe how much a single small water garden or bird bath will do to increase your pollinator and bird diversity! Shelter are ideally native plants such as grasses, shrubs, and trees that providing nesting habitats and safe shelter for everything from bees to birds to mammals A wide range of blooming plants that provide a variety of flower shapes and bloom from early spring to late fall. (Most of this is required to be licensed as a Certified Pollinator Habitat .) While doing this, we also of course want to limit if not eliminate pesticides - if you must use some, at least focus on organic-safe, but keep in mind that you may be killing at risk native species such as monarchs along with those pesky Japanese beetles. (Try being selective and doing your research about host plants - you could spray an organic-safe pesticide on select veggies but not your herbs as so many herbs serve as food sources for native moths and butterflies). We also want to remove invasive plant species that are taking over natural spaces, and it’s very helpful to leave piles of leaf mulch and dead branches/tree snags for shelter and nesting . We encourage you to leave your grasses up all winter for habitat (it adds texture and winter visual interest also), and if you deadhead plants that may provide beneficial seeds, consider collecting the stems and bundling them into a food bouquet to hang from a tree or porch, where birds can easily feed on them. OUR FAVORITE POLLINATOR PLANTS FOR VARIED CONDITIONS General methods for pollinator gardens: start by planting your potted items or bare root items, then sprinkle in the seeds throughout remaining space and cover with a thin layer of soil. Don’t thin seedlings when they emerge, just let them fill in. FULL SUN + DRY TO AVERAGE SOIL Spring Blooming Perennials: Salvia nemorosa (such as May Night), Winter Jasmine, Hellebores, Green and Gold, Coreopsis Nana, Columbine Summer Blooming Perennials: Joy Pye Weed, Penstemon, Agastache, Autumn Sage, Coneflowers, Black-eyed Susans, Butterfly Milkweed, Goldenrod, Blazing Star, Catmint Late Summer-Fall Blooming Perennials: Autumn Sage, Pineapple Sage, Helianthus (we love Autumn Gold), Heliopsis, Helenium, Goldenrod, New England and New York Aster, Hardy Mums (we love Sheffield Pink), Autumn Joy Sedum Summer Blooming Annuals: Cosmos, Tithonia, Zinnias, Annual Sages (Black & Blue is a favorite) Herbs (mostly summer blooming): Lavenders, fennel, dill, basils, chives, parsley, borage, marjoram, thyme (Herbs are particularly loved by bees!) Shrubs (late spring-summer blooming): Itea, Viburnum, Clethra, Shrubby St. John’s Wort, Ninebark, Lacecap Hydrangeas FULL TO PART SUN + MOIST SOIL/SLOWER DRAINING (CLAY) SOIL Summer-late Summer Blooming Perennials: Turtlehead, Obedient Plant, Cardinal Flower, Swamp Milkweed, Bee Balm Shrubs: New Jersey Tea, Willows, Spicebush, Redtwig Dogwood, native Hibiscus PART SHADE + AVERAGE TO RICH (COMPOST/LEAF LITTER) SOIL Perennials: Hostas, Bears Breeches, Astilbe, Hellebore Shrubs: Annabelle Hydrangeas, Oakleaf Hydrangeas, Flame Azaleas Resources How to Design a Better Wildlife Garden From NFW.org , this is an excellent summary of ecological benefits, breakdown of different design elements and suggestions for varied aesthetics. www.xerces.org/ The premier organization focusing on insect conservation. Beecityusa.org This esteemed organization works with Xerces and Asheville Greenworks. Asheville was one of the inaugural 'Bee Cities and in 2022 celebrated their 10th anniversary. ‘10 Ways to Start Building a Garden for Wildlife’ , by Doug Tallamy 'Create a Lovely Wildlife-Friendly Garden in a Yard of Any Size’ , An excellent breakdown from Claudia De Yong at houzz.com https://www.mcdowellbeekeepers.org/ Our local group offers some great tips on ensuring honeybees have food all season! Native Pollinator-Friendly Plants and Local Suppliers NC Native Plants by Season and Color Top 25 Native Pollinator Plants for North Carolina Native Pollinator Plants by Season of Bloom

Summer is here and before long you can expect 90-degree days. Living in North Carolina, we all know how hot summers can get so we put together some of our favorite ways you can conserve water while keeping your garden looking great all summer long! WATERING TIPS Prepare your garden for high temperatures by keeping plants well-hydrated leading up to and through the heat. Water deeply one to two days before the onset of a heat wave to lower the air and soil temperature around the plants as well as provide much-needed moisture. Water in the early morning or evening as less water is wasted due to evaporation. For mildew-prone plants such as garden phlox or bee balm, watering in the morning is best as it prevents moisture from sitting on the leaves all night. Water your gardens deeply rather than daily; frequent shallow watering encourages shallow roots/less healthy plants and also can increase weeds. If you travel frequently or really don’t have the time for regular watering, try installing efficient drip irrigation systems or sprinklers on timers. We also recommend purchasing some watering tubes/pipes or watering rings for your larger trees and shrubs - this enables slow deep watering, in particular if you use a pipe that gets water further down the root zone. These are especially helpful if you have trees and shrubs that need planting mid-season and will therefore require more water. Keep in mind that containers and hanging baskets need more water in general and will likely require water one to two times a day during periods of extreme heat and as plants mature. Note that watering containers more frequently will wash nutrients out of the soil, so you may also need to increase the frequency of your fertilizing or mix in some slow-release pellets to keep things blooming and happy. MULCHING Improve your soil’s water retention by mixing in compost and then topping it with mulch. Mulching can save a lot of work in the long run – choose natural mulch without chemical treatments (finely ground cedar or pine bark is good), and insulate the surface of the soil with about 2-3 inches of mulch. Mulching can reduce weed problems by up to 90% and watering needs by up to 50% if done properly and maintained. You are protecting the soil and shallow roots from direct sun exposure and reducing evaporation when applying mulch. For an in-depth guide on how to mulch, pros and cons, different types, and things to avoid - for instance, it’s crucial not to mulch up to the base of trees and shrubs as that can suffocate them! Read more here: RAIN BARRELS The average roof collects up to 600 gallons of water per 1" of rain - that's a lot of potential water for collection, saving homeowners money and significantly aiding with freshwater conservation efforts! With increasingly problematic droughts, rising costs of municipal water, and more environmental awareness, rain barrels are becoming more popular. They have also proven very helpful in reducing erosion in homeowner's yards and decreasing flooding and erosion damage caused by stormwater runoff - thereby benefiting the surrounding area. With endless styles and sizes to choose from, we highly recommend considering rain barrels as a simple way to reduce your environmental footprint and provide free water for your gardens! This article by the World Wildlife Fund covers it all! ADD SHADE TO YOUR YARD The simplest way to keep your plants cool is to manage the sunlight that hits them. You can do this through strategic planting under trees, decks, or whatever else may create shade in your garden. Adding native shrubs and trees to your yard is not only a way to provide much-needed support to wildlife and pollinators but also a great way to provide partial to full shade in areas of your yard for water conservation and cooling of your gardens as well as shade/cooling for personal enjoyment. You can also add shade to your garden with sheets, tarps, or patio umbrellas. XERIC GARDENING In addition to mulching, there are other ways to conserve water and create a garden that has low water needs--and therefore requires less time! Try grouping plants with similar water needs to save water and time, and dig a shallow depression for those that require more water to help collect rain and water runoff. One obvious tip is to plant heat and drought-resistant plants. For vegetables, try eggplant, mustard greens, okra, peppers and green beans. Some varieties of tomatoes and squash are also bred for drought resistance. For herbs, try chives, catmint, thyme, chamomile, lavender, oregano, rosemary, and Russian Sage. Some of the showiest drought-tolerant perennials include yucca, black-eyed Susans, coneflowers, coreopsis, and salvia. Note that many of the more drought-tolerant perennials are natives, and there’s a reason for that. Natives have evolved to do well in our specific region, so they, therefore, are much more tolerant of drought (and also of heavy rains) than most non-natives. We always advocate planting gardens over big expanses of lawn, as smart gardening can require less water than a lawn and is of course, much better for the environment and local wildlife--supplying food for pollinators and birds, reducing CO2 emissions from lawn mowers, etc. However, we do of course recognize that most of us still have some grass to deal with, and one way to reduce the water needs of your lawn is to mow no shorter than two inches in hot weather as it will need less water and stay greener when allowed to grow a bit taller. (Longer grass is also better for insects and wildlife!) LEARN MORE Check out this excellent guide to gardening with water conservation in mind, including ideas for low-maintenance plantings, easy ways to set up automatic watering, and ways to save water on your lawns: https://www.fix.com/blog/growing-drought-tolerant-plants/   FINALLY, TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF TOO! With increased heat please take precautions to stay hydrated and cool. During extreme heat, we recommend tending your garden in the morning or evening and taking breaks as needed!

Staff at Painters are frequently overheard raving about their beloved coffee plants at home. These plants are among some of the hardiest and easiest houseplants to grow, and the dwarf variety, which will only grow to 12", is especially suited to be a houseplant. Coffea arabica, Arabian coffee plants, like bright indirect light, consistently moist but not soggy soil, and high humidity. We recommend a humidifier or pebble tray. They appreciate cooler temperatures (64-72 degrees) so our mountain air is not a detriment! Meet these needs and they will reward you with glossy leaves and quick growth. After a few years they may even produce small white flowers and berries--containing seeds that we know as coffee beans--every spring! What a treat! As with many houseplants, do be mindful of placement for kiddos and furry ones. Coffee plants are entirely toxic to pets, and all parts other than fruits and beans are toxic to humans.