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NEWS & EVENTS FACE it. Our pottery is serving looks. Sales for March 4 - March 8 Japanese Black Pine Plant Feature and Sale through March 8th Be In the Know Before You Grow! All Your Most-Asked Questions about How Things Work Around Here! 1 2 3 4 5 1 ... 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 ... 29 Wednesday March 4th Learn more Opening Weekend Kickoff and Celebration! Learn More

Since 1973 Painters Greenhouse has supplied Western North Carolina with high-quality, locally grown plants. Located just off the beaten path our seasonal family-owned greenhouse is known for its focus on native and pollinator plants, mature houseplants, and wide selection. Grown Locally to Thrive Locally Home: Welcome and Newsletter Signup Now Open For Spring! Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 9am-5pm Saturday & Sunday: 9am-4pm Monday & Tuesday: CLOSED SIGN UP FOR OUR NEWSLETTER SUBMIT Thanks! NEW THIS WEEK FACE it. Our pottery is serving looks. View More Sales for March 4 - March 8 Japanese Black Pine View More Plant Feature and Sale through March 8th Be In the Know Before You Grow! View More All Your Most-Asked Questions about How Things Work Around Here! SEE MORE GROWN LOCALLY TO THRIVE LOCALLY For 49 years our family business has supplied WNC with high quality plants. We grow more than 90% of our plants on site. Our goal is to provide plants grown with intention and sustainability for our community. LEARN MORE GROWN LOCALLY TO THRIVE LOCALLY For more than 50 years, our family business has supplied WNC with high-quality plants. We grow more than 90% of our plants on site. Our goal is to provide plants grown with intention and sustainability for our community. LEARN MORE A FOCUS ON NATIVES Planting native is a wonderful way to support a biodiverse ecosystem in your back yard from the bottom to the top of the food chain. We are proud to offer one of the largest selections of homegrown native plants in WNC! LEARN MORE EXPLORE OUR PLANTS Described as a paradise for plant lovers, we have over 100,000 sq. ft. of growing and retail space and cultivate over 1,000 species on site. We grow our plants with care and intention and sell direct to our faithful retail customers. Our plants are inspected and watered by hand and don't suffer shipping damage or transport from another climate. We are widely known for our focus on natives and pollinator plants, our vast selection of perennials (over 900 varieties), our giant Boston Ferns, and our lush houseplant offerings. PLANT AVAILABILITY LIST FROM OUR BLOG The North-Facing Survival Guide: Our Favorite Houseplants for Low-Light Spaces Edgeworthia: A Fragrant Winter Treasure Dogwood Anthracnose: How to Keep Your New Dogwoods Safe from this Fungal Disease SEE MORE Follow Us on Social Media @PaintersGreenhouse FOLLOW US PLANTS PROVIDE JOY AND WELLNESS, SUPPORT WILDLIFE, AND MAKE US FEEL MORE CONNECTED - THAT'S WHY WE ENCOURAGE EVERYONE TO ADD A LITTLE GREEN TO THEIR LIFE!

How to get to Painters Greenhouse! And when to arrive. Plus some other great area attractions and businesses to enjoy after your visit to Painters. HOURS & DIRECTIONS 2026 SPRING SEASON: March 4 - June 28 Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 9am-5pm Saturday & Sunday: 9am-4pm Monday & Tuesday: CLOSED DIRECTIONS 734 Roy Moore Rd., Old Fort NC, 28762 Painters Greenhouse is a plant nursery just off the beaten path in Old Fort, NC. A gorgeous mountain drive, centrally located about 30 miles from Asheville, Lake Lure, and Morganton--only 5 miles off the highway. FROM BLACK MOUNTAIN, AS HEVILLE , & MORGANTON Take I-40 to Exit 73. Travel south 2.5 miles on Bat Cave Rd. and turn right on Pine Cove Rd. (at the yellow Painters Greenhouse sign). Continue another 2.5 miles, and turn left on Roy Moore Rd. Customer parking is immediately on the left. FROM LAKE LURE Due to Hurricane Helene recovery, please check GPS for updated information. Take NC 9 north. Turn right onto Old Fort Rd. and follow 4.7 miles, passing the Gateway Mountain entrance. (The road is Bat Cave Rd. after the Gateway entrance.) Continue 3.9 miles and make a sharp left onto Roy Moore Rd (at the Painters Greenhouse sign). Continue on Roy Moore, straight through the intersection by the church, for approximately 1 mile. You will see the greenhouse on the right. Pass the employee parking lot and continue to the main entrance for customers. FROM THE SPRUCE PINE AREA Take 80/221/226 south to US 70 W. Turn right on US 70 W and follow into Old Fort. Turn left at Catawba/Main Street. Continue straight for 2.5 miles on Bat Cave Rd. and turn right onto Pine Cove Rd. (at the yellow Painters Greenhouse sign). Continue another 2.5 miles, and turn left onto Roy Moore Rd. Customer parking is immediately on the left. MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT area attraction Enjoy these area attractions alongside your visit to Painters Greenhouse Wander CATAWBA FALLS One of the most beautiful waterfalls in WNC and a perfect hike for people of all ages and abilities. Parts of the trail are all-terrain wheelchair accessible and further along, the stairs to the upper falls will challenge even the most fit hikers! Note that the main loop trail is open, but the upper viewing platform and wildflower trail may still be under repairs after Helene. FOOTHILLS WATERSHED Mountain trails meet riverside relaxation. Just downstream from Catawba Falls: Foothills Watershed is a new addition to the Old Fort landscape. With 117 acres of private forest, bike trails, pump track, river and pond access, it's a blend of outdoor adventure, family-friendly fun, and elevated local food. Check it out! OLD FORT GATEWAY TRAILS Whether you are an avid mountain biker, hiker, trail runner, or equestrian user, these trails have something for everybody. There are Helene-related repairs as well as trail expansions underway, but plenty of lovely hiking and biking trails are currently open. Visit their website for up-to-date info. BLUE RIDGE SNORKEL TRAIL Explore the beauty of our native aquatic species! Most of us don't think of snorkeling in our local streams or lakes, but there is a huge diversity of fascinating and colorful fish, crustaceans, aquatic insects and more to be discovered! WHALEY FARM BR EWERY Grab a pint at the newest brewery in Old Fort, featuring Whaley-grown and locally sourced herbs, flowers, spices, and fruits in their brews. Plus a farm store with a great selection of locally grown produce, meats and more! EUDA WINE Crafting authentic North Carolina wines, Euda is a lovely new addition to town. Check for updated hours as they navigate recovery - officially reopened as of March 8th! HILLMAN BREWERY Swing by this Old Fort staple for a tasty sandwich or salad and relax with a cold beer along the river! Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner - check website for hours. SEEKER COFFEE Seeker Coffee is a great casual stop before or after your Painters trip. They have a full espresso menu as well as matcha, chai, drip coffee, and cold beverages. Plus, they offer a daily selection of sweet and savory pastries. Taste Discover MOUNTAIN GATEWAY MUSEUM Hurricane Helene decimated the lovely home that housed the museum's offices, but work is underway to repair the historical museum, log cabins and grounds. While they work to restore this town gem, discover the history of WNC at their temporary location, 78-c Catawba Avenue. Admission is free! ARROWHEAD GALLERY & S T UDIO This is do-not-miss! The original location and most of the artwork within was seriously damaged by Helene flooding, but residents and artisans came together to quickly rebuild and reopen across the street. The larger space has allowed for even more talented artists to join, and the gallery also offers an amazing variety of classes- truly something for everyone to get inspired! NANU GALLERY Contemporary art gallery and community event space. NANU intentionally focuses on exhibiting the diverse artists of McDowell County, Western North Carolina, and the greater US Southeastern region, highlighting the breadth and richness of the work in and of this place.

Did you know there's a disease caused by a fungus that has been spreading among our native dogwoods since its discovery in 1978? Dogwood anthracnose has caused serious losses to flowering dogwoods found in the forest and as ornamental plantings in the Eastern and Southern United States. The fungus is more prevalent during wet springs/falls, at higher elevations (3,000+ ft)), in shaded areas (especially north-facing slopes), and in cool moist planting sites. Signs and symptoms of Dogwood anthracnose include: Small tan leaf spots, often with a ring of purple, often resulting in leaf mortality Leaves are aborted prematurely and might cling to the stems through winter Evidence of fungus fruiting bodies on dead stems Dieback from the lower branches and progressing to the top of the tree Cankers and bark shedding Epicormic shoots - young new stems that sprout from the main stem and along main branches Click here for additional information and pictures of signs/symptoms. There's not much that can be done to treat existing Dogwoods in your landscape that are already infected with Dogwood anthracnose, but there are several measures that can be taken to prevent the disease before planting. Be sure to choose a planting site with: Good air flow Good water drainage At least part-sun if not full sun conditions An even better way to prevent Dogwood anthracnose from infecting your Dogwood tree is to purchase a hybrid or variety that is anthracnose resistant. There are several different Dogwood selections that have the typical white, spring blooms and beautiful purple fall foliage as found in our native flowering Dogwood ( Cornus florida ).  You can also opt for a Kousa/Japanese Dogwood ( Cornus kousa ) as this non-native species is not susceptible to the anthracnose.  Read more about some favorites we carry and visit our website for sizes, prices, and current stock: https://www.paintersgreenhouse.com/tree-shrub-availability Flowering Dogwood ‘Super Princess’ Zones 5-9 Full sun – part shade 15-20’ tall and wide Extra-large white blooms appear early to mid spring before the tree’s spring flush of leaves.  Foliage turns red-purple in fall.  Red berries persist well into winter, providing visual interest and food for birds.  While this variety is not completely resistant to anthracnose, it was bred for increased resistance in comparison to the straight species. Flowering Dogwood 'Spring Grove' Zones 4-9 Full sun to part shade 20' tall and 20-30' wide This selection was discovered growing in Spring Grove Cemetery in Cincinnati, OH.  Known for an abundant display of large (5") white blooms in early spring.  It naturally has excellent resistance to dogwood anthracnose, which makes it a great choice for homeowners wanting a native flowering dogwood with improved disease resistance.   Flowering Dogwood ‘Cherokee Brave’ Zones 5-9 Full sun – part shade 15-30’ tall and 25-35’ wide Pink-red blooms in early to mid spring before the tree’s spring flush of leaves.  Foliage turns crimson in fall.  Red berries persist well into winter, providing visual interest and food for birds.  While this variety is not completely resistant to anthracnose, it was bred for increased resistance in comparison to the straight species.   Dogwood hybrid ‘Stellar Pink’ and 'Stellar Nova' Stellar Pink (Stellar Nova is a white bloom) Zones 5-9 Full sun – part shade 20-30’ tall and 15-25’ wide – mature form is vase-shaped Both varieties were developed at Rutgers University and bred to be completely resistant to dogwood anthracnose and dogwood borers.  Hybrids between  C. florida  and  C. kousa.   Large blooms are similar in appearance to native dogwoods, but bloom in mid to late May (after the native dogwoods finish blooming). Flowers are sterile and this tree will not produce fruit. Fall foliage is red-purple. Deer resistant.   Kousa Dogwood ‘Scarlet Fire’ Zones 5-9 Full sun – part shade 20-25’ tall and 15-20’ wide Large, 5” dark pink-fuchsia blooms last for 6-8 weeks in late May/early June – blooms appear alongside the leaves (as opposed to blooms before foliage like the native dogwoods).  New leaf is tinged with purple.  Fall foliage turns red.  Produces round, warty, red fruits edible to humans in August/September, but fruit is ignored by birds.  Fruit tastes like a cross between pumpkin and mango with a custardy texture.  Resistant to anthracnose, deer resistant, drought tolerant once established.   Kousa Dogwood ‘Greensleeves’ Zones 4-8 Full sun – part shade 15-20’ tall and wide Large white star shaped blooms emerge green in early summer alongside foliage and fade to a creamy white.  Mature form is vase-shaped.  Produces red fruits edible to humans in August/September, but fruit is ignored by birds.  Fruits taste like a cross between pumpkin and mango with a custardy texture.  Resistant to anthracnose, deer resistant, drought tolerant once established. Dogwood hybrid 'Starlight' Zones 6-8 Full sun to part shade 25-30' tall and 15-20' wide A hybrid cross between Pacific and Kousa dogwoods, bred for impressive stature, improved vigor, and disease resistance.  Covered in white blooms in late spring.  This hybrid has the upright, oval growth habit and form of Pacific dogwood and the disease resistance of Kousa dogwood.  Resistant to dogwood anthracnose and powdery mildew.  It sparsely produces red-orange fruit about 3/4" in size. Flowering Dogwood 'Crimson Red' Zones 4-9 Full sun to part shade 15-30' tall and 25-35' wide This variety was discovered in a field in Tennessee--it is the first red-flowering dogwood variety on the market that is true to seed. While other varieties may occasionally revert or produce branches with a less intense coloration, this one remains truly red to its core. This variety is bred for vigor and color. While it does have improved resistance to anthracnose, it is not completely immune. Follow the guidelines in this blog post when planting this variety to help protect it from anthracnose.

Are you looking for plant survivors for your sun-starved space? Let us help with some of our favorite easy-care houseplants for medium to low light. First, what exactly IS a low-light indoor environment? We consider medium and medium-low light to be within or near northern-facing windows or in areas with a good amount of indirect light. Truly low-light areas are located far from windows, in corners/shady nooks/hallways, and receive only moderate ambient light. An easy tip is that if you can't read a book by the natural light available, then it's likely not enough light to keep a plant happy. What about artificial lighting? While it is true that fluorescent lighting can supply the full spectrum of light needed for plants to grow (though maybe not flower or truly thrive), they really need to be within a foot of the plant to provide that. If you have a room with no windows and only artificial lights overhead, we recommend supplementing some of your usual bulbs with LED grow bulbs. If lighting is far from the plant and/or isn't on for 8-10 hours a day, then you'll do best adding a grow light within a foot or two of your plants ( there are so many fun options now !). Your green babies will tell you if they're not getting enough light — if you see thinning, stretching leaves and stems, or paler and smaller leaves, it's time to move them or add supplemental light! Read on for our favorite Low-Light Houseplants! Those that are nontoxic are marked with the paw icon — we recommend keeping the others out of reach or in areas where pets aren't allowed. Ferns Best Varieties: Crocodile, Blue Star & Lemon Button (Left to right: Crocodile, Blue Star, Lemon Button) These lush ferns vary greatly in appearance, but all are very easy care — water regularly to keep them lightly moist and they will be happy in anything from high to low light. (You will have slower growth, and fronds are likely to be smaller in lower light settings. The above examples have been grown in medium to medium-high light). We love all three for their texture and color as well as how easy they are to keep looking good! Mature size after many years is 2-5' for Crocodile Ferns, 1-3' for Blue Star Ferns, and 8-18" for Lemon Buttons, depending on cultivar and lighting. An added bonus is they're all pet-safe, so you don't have to get strategic with your locations. ZZ Plants - All (Left to right: Solid, Oscura) Unlike most tropical plants that prefer bright, indirect light, ZZ plants are quite forgiving and will push new growth even if only getting the light from your desk lamp! Their glossy leaves and upright form make them a great plant for an office or poorly-lit bedroom. Over time, they can grow to 3-4' tall and 2-3' wide depending on cultivar, but they are typically slow growers. They're very forgiving of forgetful waterers, so if you want a super easy care plant for your low light spot, this is it (just keep out of reach of pets)! Give them a deep watering once every 2-3 weeks (make sure their pot has good drainage), and you're set. Snake Plants - All (Left to right: Moonshine, Whitney, Laurentii/Wintergreen/Moonshine/Black Dragon assortment) Snake plants have a dramatic, upright architectural shape, and they'll survive in even the darkest of rooms. And with endless varieties now available, you can choose from a wide range of colors/shades, sizes and shapes. You don't have to settle for the basic snake plants of your childhood (though grandma's is probably still alive in the corner!). Water these easy-care plants sparingly—only when soil is completely dry (this is another highly forgiving option for those of you with low light and less-than-perfect plant parent records). There's a snakeplant for every space—choose a sweet little birdsnest variety for a bedside table, or a 5' tall Wintergreen for a stately corner accent! While most cultivars aren't appealing/easy to chew, smaller or more spikey varietals may interest pets, so be sure to keep out of reach. Pothos ( Epipremnum ) - All (Left to right: Jade, Cebu Blue, Marble Queen) Pothos are considered to be some of the easiest houseplants to grow, and conveniently are also very tolerant of low light. The one thing they don't like is staying wet, so wait to water when the top few inches of soil have dried (or when leaves start to wilt). Jade (above left) does best in low or artificial light, but all varieties are tolerant. A rule of thumb is that variegated cultivars (especially those with more white/cream) need more light to maintain variegation, so we recommend placing them in medium-low rather than low light. In darker areas, all varieties are likely to have smaller leaves, grow more sparsely, and may revert to solid green if they are variegated. They can reach over 6' in length with a relatively fast growth rate, making them fun options for training vines over doorways and windows! This also helps keep them out of reach of pets. Satin Pothos ( Scindapsus ) - All (Left to right: Jade Satin, Exotica, Argyraeus) Did you know that Satin Pothos is actually not a true pothos? (Yes, it would have been helpful to just give it a different common name). On top of that, Jade Satin Pothos is not the same plant as Jade Pothos! Luckily, they can all tolerate lower light. In general, Satin Pothos has very similar preferences to 'true pothos'—they do not want to be overwatered. If they are too dry, the leaves start to curl, so if you're an anxious plant parent, you can wait for them to tell you they want a drink. While they can handle low light spots, you will definitely see bigger leaves in medium light or when supplemented by grow lights. Satin pothos is much slower growing than true pothos, with more compact growth and thicker leaves. Make sure to tuck or hang out of pet reach. Cast Iron Plant (Left to right: Solid, Milky Way) Cast Iron Plant has earned its name because it stands up to a lot of abuse! (You may have your great-great-grandmother's Cast Iron in a dark corner!). The long, dark green leaves complement any space and can pretty much live in any space as well. Another great option (perhaps the best) for absent-minded plant parents, Cast Iron Plants tolerate both very low light and very little water. Ideally, you give them a drink when the top couple inches of soil feel dry. Over time (often MANY years), they can grow up to 3' tall and wide. While they are pet-safe, they are also apparently appealing (at least to certain cats who will not be named)... so you may still want to tuck out of reach! Heartleaf Philodendron ( P. hederaceum ) - All (Left to right: Solid, Micans, Rio) This handsome trailing plant comes in many varieties, and all are easy care and truly lovely. They're beautiful draping over the edges of a bookshelf or climbing up a trellis. Another tough plant, it's an excellent option for new plant parents due to easy of care and faster growth rate. Heartleaf can tolerate anything from bright indirect light to low light, with variegated and colorful cultivars being less richly hued or patterned in low light. In general, heartleaf cultivars do best in medium-low light; if deciding between a heartleaf and a pothos for your darker spaces, we'd recommend the pothos. That said, we've found that Micans is surprisingly tolerant of low light (in addition to thriving in bright light as seen above). Water heartleaf philodendrons when the top couple inches of soil are dry. Most cultivars grow pretty quickly, and reach 2-3' tall and wide. We like them in hanging baskets or on high shelves to keep away from pets. Silver Sword Philodendron (P. hastatum) This lovely philodendron surprised us with its tolerance of lower light. It does best in medium light, but can tolerate medium-low. If it starts looking leggy or the leaves seem less vibrant (the beauty, after all, is in the rich silvery blue-green foliage), then move it to a brighter spot. As a natural climber, Silver Sword does best when given a pole or trellis, and can grow over 10' tall over time. As it matures, the leaves get very long and divide into lobes. Silver Sword likes to stay lightly moist — if unsure, make sure its pot has good drainage and water when the top inch of soil is dry. We love that this gorgeous variety is one of the easiest large-leaf philos to grow! Remember to place away from inquisitive mouths. Monstera deliciosa Several different species go by the name Monstera, but Monstera deliciosa is the most adaptable to lower light. It's not going to grow fast, but generally it will do just fine in low to moderate light levels. Definitely one of the best options for a large/more stately plant in your lower light spaces (just buy it big so you don't have to wait forever!). Water Monstera when the top two inches of soil are dry. This is another very easy-care houseplant, but keep in mind that it is toxic to pets, and it can be harder to find a space for a large specimen that isn't within munching range. Baby Rubber Plant, Peperomia obtusifolia 'Red Edge' Red Edge Peperomia is another winner for new plant parents or those of us just trying to survive! Tolerant of everything from high to low light, the only thing these beauties ask for is occasional water (let fully dry between waterings). If you want a more compact/tight growth habit, place in medium rather than low light — either way, they typically stay under 1' tall & wide. The O.G. Baby Rubber Plant (solid green) is equally tolerant of lower light — we just prefer Red Edge as the red stems and leaf edges give a pop of color. Diving Deeper: While we love many other peperomia for easy care such as Raindrop, Watermelon, and Felted, these varieties prefer bright indirect light. There are some trailing varieties such as Parallel ( P. tetragona ), Hope ( P. deppeana x quadrifolia), and String of Turtles ( P. prostrata ) that can handle medium-low light. If they start getting stringy/less compact or have less variegation, then move to a spot with a bit more light. Peperomia bonus —they're all pet-safe! Hoya H. publicalyx , H. carnosa & H. australis are best (Left to right: H. pubicalyx 'Pink Speckled', H. carnosa 'Pink Princess', H. australis solid' & 'Lisa') These three hoya species are pretty much tied for their adaptability to light — others may do well in medium or medium-low lighting, but these three are considered best for lower light situations. There are MANY varieties and variations of Hoya pubicalyx and carnosa, and if you want to waste a good 10 hours, we encourage you to deep dive on Reddit to get even more confused about the differences (not that Dana did...). As with other plants on this list, cultivars with more patterning will be at risk of losing some of that coloration or reverting to their simpler plant parentage in lower light. Hoya australis ss. will likely do better than Lisa, and cultivars such as Pink Princess with more white in their leaves need more light. All hoya are pet safe, so this is a great option for lower spots with lower light! Diving Deeper: While the above hoya species can maintain healthy growth in lower light, they may not bloom. If you see new tendrils reaching with no leaf development, that may not mean they need more light, but rather a trellis to grow onto. As natural climbers, they sometimes send bare shoots out to search for something to grab onto. Hoops are best so that they can wrap around them without lattice in the way. Calathea (aka Goeppertia ) G. insignis Rattlesnake Plant, G. makoyana Peacock Plant, & G. kegeljanii Network Plant are best (Left to right: Rattlesnake, Peacock, Network) Thriving in low to medium light, these tropical gems like regular watering (keep soil lightly moist, not wet). Humidity is a plus! Their bold, attention-grabbing leaves actually move in response to light cycles, making them dynamic additions to your low-light spaces. All three of these grow slowly, but can reach up to 2' tall and wide over time, creating a lush and unique statement piece for your low-light area. Calathea can get a bad rap for being finicky, but these three varieties are some of the easiest care. When someone's Network Calathea (aka Mosaic Plant) has browning leaves, it's most often due to sun scorch—these cultivars truly do prefer lower light areas! Pets can safely munch, though you may not want to lose any of these gorgeous leaves! Neanthe Bella Palm (a.k.a. Parlor Palm) Certain palms can be great options for the shadier spots in your space, with Parlor Palms being a favorite. Known for their bright, feathery fronds, these low-maintenance palms do well even with very little light. Give them a pot with good drainage and water when the top inch of the soil feels dry. Avoid placing near cold drafts or next to an air vent (a good rule of thumb for any plant, but these guys like to stay warm and humid when possible.). Parlor Palms are great pet-safe options for floor pots — if a few of those fronds get munched, your only concern is that it might not look great. At maturity, they can reach up to 6' tall and 3' wide, but if you'd like a smaller one, they do grow slowly. Safe for pet mouths, and also quite appealing due to their texture! Key Tips: For all plants placed in lower light areas, there are a few things to be extra conscientious of: Keep an eye out for signs of disease or pests — when they're not getting their ideal light, plants can be more stressed and therefore more prone to disease or pest activity. Dust those leaves! Yes, it can be tedious, but it's extra important for plants in low light. Even a fine layer of dust can inhibit their light uptake and ability to photosynthesize. We like using microfiber gloves — for an added bonus, spritz your gloves with an organic pest treatment. (To be extra safe, do a thorough pest check before using gloves on multiple plants. You don't want to inadvertently spread teensy spider mites!) Pay attention to your watering. While some of the above plants may like watering every few days when in a brighter spot, they likely won't need it as often in a darker area. That said, don't assume that they need less — it all depends on the type of pot, soil, how rootbound they are, if they're near an air vent, etc... don't stress about it, but take a second to do the finger test rather than assuming you know if they need watering. If you overwater in lower light areas, they may take longer to dry out and therefore be more susceptible to root rot or fungus gnats. For houseplants that like humidity (which is most of them, especially in winter/dryer months), consider adding a humidifier to your space (or placing them in a bathroom). Again, one less stress to the plant and another way to ensure its long-term success in a lower light environment! As a general rule of thumb, when we breed for special characteristics like a dark edge or pink variegation, we often sacrifice some of the original vigor that the plant evolved in nature. If you would prefer more robust plants that are less prone to disease or pests, we recommend choosing the 'O.G.s' of the above recommendations. If you are less worried about perfection and open to some trial and error, then give that Manjula a try! After all, much of the joy of growing plants is experimentation and learning!

Like many gardeners in winter, we also daydream of various crops we’ll grow for the coming season. At Painters we spend the off-season researching vegetable varieties that perform well in our area. We gather feedback from customers and employees and research to find varieties bred to be adapted to the climate, soil, and pest/disease pressures of our area. To match our extensive research, we include detailed signage with information for each variety we offer (a big thanks to Nora for her hard work with that!). This week we are highlighting cool-season veggies. When our doors opened the first week of March we made sure to have our whole selection of cool-season veggie starts available to customers. Many gardeners plant cool-season veggies before March, and that’s a good call! Our starts are mature enough to be transplanted directly into your garden–we've grown them to a healthy (and beautiful!) size. We try to select short-season or early maturing varieties of cool-season crops to help customers reap a bounty within the small window we have between now and summer. We also try to select varieties that can withstand warmer temperatures and are slow to bolt. All cool-season crops are grown in 3.5” pots, 18 pots to a flat, and priced to move--we often feature specials on veggies by the flat, so make sure to check out our   New this Week  page to view the latest price updates. As Winter mellows into Spring, don’t be fooled that the cold is totally gone. We are still susceptible to frost ± 10 days from April 13th. This week is certainly showing us that the cold nights aren't gone yet! Check your average last (and first) frost days in your area here:   https://products.climate.ncsu.edu/freeze/map.php . We plan to have our warm-season vegetable starts available for sale closer to mid-April, but check out our Edibles page  for our full growing list!  Now onto the cool season veggies! Jump to: BRASSICAS ALLIUMS GREENS SEEDS BRASSICAS Also considered members of the cabbage family, this includes some of the most widely cultivated (and often most nutritious) vegetables throughout the world. Plants in the Brassica family love temperate weather, thrive in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil, and love a healthy dose of nitrogen. Bok Choy ‘Joi Choi’ – F1 A vigorous, white-stemmed bok choy (or pak choi) that grows up to 15” tall. Slow-bolting, and tolerant of both heat and cold makes it adaptable and easy to grow. An essential part of Chinese cuisine for thousands of years. Mild mustard flavor with a background sweetness – great steamed of stir-fried. Broccoli ‘Imperial’ – F1 Head-forming broccoli. Excellent heat tolerance and continues to produce heads during longer days, making it suitable for summer harvesting. Harvest when heads are tight, before flower buds start to open. Stores well. Brussels Sprout ‘Jade Cross’ – F1 An All-American Selections winner. Uniform small sprouts (up to 1”) that taste delicious. Plants are compact (<30”). Brussels Sprouts are best planted in fall for a winter harvest (tastes better after a frost!), but they can also be grown in mild springs and benefit from moist, rich, cool soil. Chinese Cabbage ‘China Express’ – F1 Napa type Chinese cabbage. Produces a barrel-shaped head averaging 3-5 lbs. with 10-12” diameter! Sweet, flavorful, and crisp - perfect for kimchi and stir fries. Resistant to mild frosts and disease, slow to bolt. Cabbage ‘Ruby Perfection’ – F1 Red/purple cabbage resistant to thrips and black rot. Heads grow to 6 lbs. and are ready to harvest in late summer. Full of anthocyanins and phenolics – good for your memory and immune system! Cabbage ‘Savoy Ace’ – F1 A treat for home-growers, as these densely wrinkled cabbages are usually not available in stores since they don’t ship well. Tender and delicate, this type of cabbage cooks quicker than smooth-leaf varieties. Aesthetically appealing and considered to be the best tasting of all the cabbages! Medium-sized heads are early to mature. Cabbage ‘Stonehead’ – F1 Grey-green round heads of smooth, tightly packed leaves growing up to 6” and 6lbs. Resistant to splitting, yellowing, and black rot. Widely considered to be the easiest cabbage to grow – great for slaws and sauerkraut! Cauliflower, Romanesco ‘Veronica’ – F1 As visually striking as it is tasty--perfect for lovers of both flavor and math. It is known for its striking, fractal-like heads with spiraling, chartreuse florets that form pointed, turreted spears. The heads continue to mature while outer spears are harvested. Also known as Fibonacci broccoli! Cauliflower ‘Snow Crown’ – F1 Snow white heads up to 8”. Matures quickly and ready for harvest in summer. This is the go-to variety for many gardeners as it’s vigorous and reliable. Sweet and mild – great raw, roasted or steamed! Collards ‘Flash’ – F1 A dark green variety known for its vigor, dependability and high yield. Fast regrowth offers repeated harvests for gardeners. Mild and sweet, and even sweeter after a frost. Kale ‘Toscano’ This Tuscan kale is an Italian heirloom. It’s also known as lacinato or dinosaur kale. Leaves are extra-dark green and savoyed. It is tolerant of heat and frost, grows up to 3’ tall and 2’ wide. Rich and tender, with a softer texture than curly kales. Kale ‘Vates’ Also called Blue Scotch Curled Kale, delicious, dark green-blue, crinkled leaves are perfect for making kale chips, eaten raw, in salads or cooked in many different ways. Among the most nutrient-dense vegetables on the planet! Compact, slow-bolting, hardy in heat and cold (even frost tolerant). Kale ‘Beira’ – F1 Known as Sea Kale or Portuguese Cabbage. The taste and texture of the leaves are similar to collards. These vigorous plants grow up to 2’ tall and wide and perform best in the cooler weather of spring and fall. Midribs and stems can be peeled and eaten like celery. This is the traditional kale used to make Portuguese kale soup. Kale ‘Red Russian’ Silvery-green, oak-leaf shaped leaves with bright purple stems. Grows up to 3’ tall and remain tender when large. This type of kale is more tender, smooth and sweet than other kales – great in massaged salads! Kohlrabi ‘Kossak’ – F1 Hybrid variety with massive bulbs–up to 10'' and 10 lbs–although best when harvested around 8.” These vegetables are excellent for storage. They are sweet and juicy, with no woodiness, even when bowling-ball sized! Delicious raw or in sautés and stir-fries; versatile and nutritious! Mustard ‘Miz America’ Mizuna – F1 Deeply lobed, wine-colored leaves are tasty while also being ornamental (great for combo pots!). Leaves are crunchy with a mild mustardy flavor and can be eaten as baby greens or fully-developed leaves. Toss a small handful in with milder greens for a nice zest! ALLIUMS Latin for “garlic,” members of this family include onions, garlic, leeks, scallions, chives, and shallots . Leek ‘King Richard’ Beautiful full-sized leeks with non-bulbing shafts up to 12”. This variety has a sweet, mild flavor excellent for soups, stews and salads – will be ready to harvest in summer. Bunching Onion ‘White Lisbon’ The most popular variety of non-bulbing bunching onions since the 1700s! Tolerates both heat and cold and reliably thrives in a wide range of soils and conditions. Smooth, succulent stalks have a mild, zesty flavor. GREENS From fresh lettuces for salads, to spicy arugula and bright hints of rainbow chard, growing leafy greens in your garden is extremely rewarding! Lettuce ‘Buttercrunch’ Small, loose heads of deep green, wavy leaves. Leaves have a velvety texture and sweet flavor. Harvest outer leaves first to encourage growth of inner leaves. Does great grown in containers. Lettuce ‘Parris Island’ An heirloom Romaine (aka Cos) lettuce with vase-shaped heads of dark green, tender leaves. Disease resistant, slow to bolt, and exceptionally nutritious. Named after Parris Island, a small island off the coast of South Carolina. Lettuce ‘Encore Mix’ A mix of red and green lettuces varying in shape, color and texture. This mix includes Green Oakleaf, Red Oakleaf, Green Romaine, Red Romaine, Lollo Rossa, Redleaf, and Bibb lettuces. A great option for a diversity of greens. Suitable for outdoor production, in containers, or in the low-light conditions of hoop houses and greenhouses. A “cut and come again” technique of harvesting baby greens works for this lettuce, as most lettuces in the mix will regrow. Lettuce ‘Lolla Rossa’ Heavily frilled leaves with dark red edges add fantastic texture and colors to salads. Harvest the outer leaves first to encourage growth of inner leaves. Lettuce ‘Salad Bowl Green’ Long frilly leaves are tender and flavorful, perfect for salads. Award-winning variety tolerant of heat, frost, and tip burn. Harvest the whole heads when large, or harvest outer leaves a bit at a time. Spinach ‘Bloomsdale’ (savoy) A tried and true heirloom variety, a favorite for over a hundred years. Thick, crinkled leaves stand upright which keeps the leaves clean, and harvesting is a breeze! Fast-growing and slow to bolt. Delicious raw or cooked. Swiss Chard ‘Bright Lights’ – F1 Leafy green with brilliantly colored stems in shades of gold, pink, white, purple, orange and green. Sweet and delicious, harvest young for salads, or use larger leaves for stir-fries and sautés. Arugula ‘Astro’ A peppery, nutty green that lends a punch of flavor to pizzas, salads, pesto, and pasta dishes. This variety is heat-tolerant and grows well in full sun. White-pink flowers are also edible and add a lovely garnish to salads or stir-fries. SEEDS $3.25 per package Some vegetables have sensitive roots and do not respond well to transplanting from a pot into the ground. Some examples are radishes, corn, peas, beans, squash, melon, cucumbers, okra, and others. We do plan to grow limited quantities of squash, melon, eggplants, cucumbers, and okra for customers, but we also offer   Sow True Seed  packets for the vegetables that do best by direct sowing. Supplies are limited. Download this document for a current listing of available seeds: [NOTE] F1/Hybrid Varieties: F1 denotes a plant that is a first generation offspring of two individuals of two different plant varieties. These are more artificially-bred than plants that are grown from open-pollinated (OP) seeds. F1 hybrids are usually bred to create a plant with particular traits to cater to a specific desire (i.e. disease resistance, fruit/flower color, sweetness, dwarf form/habit, larger fruit, etc.). If you allow F1 varieties to produce seed the plants from these seeds will not be true to the parent plant. The debate of F1 vs OP is heated. We understand, as a greenhouse, the importance of heirloom or open-pollinated varieties to allow customers to produce one’s own seed supply with diverse genetics. We also want to serve our customers' desires, and we find that many are looking for popular hybrid varieties that have become a staple in many home gardens.