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Callicarpa americana Callicarpa americana berries, close-up American beautyberry is a fast growing, native, deciduous shrub mostly known for the magnificent violet-magenta berry display in late September and early October. The bright berries are a color not often seen in nature and their arrangement of tight clusters around the leaf nodes are just as unusual. While not one for stunning fall color, the anemic looking green leaves will quickly turn yellow before abscission, but the loss of leaves unveil the colorful, bright berries. The shrub is high-impact visually, a trait that benefits both the viewer and wildlife when planted en masse. Callicarpa americana, American Beautyberry Since the blooms and berries are borne on new growth, pruning is best done in late winter before leafing out. Prune down to 6-18” from ground if you’d like to keep the shrub looking its best. If left unchecked, the shrub can reach up to 8 feet tall and wide. American beautyberry does tend to get a little scraggly as it ages and benefits from a cleanup each year with removal of dead limbs at the very least. American beautyberry is considered a pioneer species, often appearing in open areas after land is cleared. This makes it an exceptional beneficial species as it provides a source of nutrient dense food for birds, mammals, and other wildlife in a landscape that could be going through transition and may not have a bounty of food or shelter at that moment in time. Nectar and pollen in early summer blooms attract native bees and butterflies. Pioneer species are generally tough plants that can handle volatile conditions. Beautyberry is highly tolerant of fire, drought (once established), and heavy browsing by animals. But with the hardy traits comes an intolerance of shade, so it often declines when mid-story vegetation is dense. When planting in the landscape make sure to keep the shrub at the edge of the woods or in open areas. Callicarpa americana flower close-up American beautyberry is a host plant for the rustic sphinx moth, spring azure butterflies, and snowberry clearwing moths. The fruit are high in moisture content, protein, and fat and provide food to over forty species of songbirds including American robin, cedar waxwings, warblers, finches, and the eastern towhee as well as mammals including armadillo, foxes, opossum, racoon, and squirrels. The fat content in the berries means amazing fuel for migrating birds in fall and winter when the fruit are present. American beautyberry has 70% fat content in the berries--as a comparison spicebush has 50% and native dogwoods have 25%. Asian beautyberries only have somewhere around 5% fat content. Asian beautyberries were introduced to the US in 1845 and are often found in commercial and home landscapes. (Painters even once carried the Asian variety. We all are learning and growing in our journey!) Not only are they considered invasive, but they can also hybridize with our native beautyberry. The hybridization can weaken the berries' nutritional value, favorable nesting habitat, palatability to host caterpillars, decrease berry size and the overall genetic strength of our native American beautyberry. You can identify Asian beautyberries by their looser fruit clusters that dangle further from the stem and ripen much earlier than the American species (August/early September). The branches on the Asian species are longer and weeping in habit and do not support nesting as much as the native species. One American beautyberry shrub can bear 3-5 pounds of fruit in one season and it’s not just enjoyed by wildlife, but humans as well! The fruit is not juicy, but more of a pithy pulp with a mild sweet taste with spicy notes, similar to Asian five spice. Harvest when the fruit tastes best after nighttime temps have dipped in the low 40s, but before fruit has experienced multiple freezes. You can find several recipes online for extracting the juice and making jelly, here's a great one: Growing Conditions and Quick Facts: Abundant berries from Callicarpa americana NAME: Callos means “beauty” and carpos means “fruit”. NATIVE RANGE: Distributed through the southeastern United States from Texas east to Maryland. It grows in the Caribbean and northern Mexico, too. FUN FACT: American beautyberry has antibacterial and pest-deterring properties. Native American tribes used roots, leaves and branches to treat malarial fevers, rheumatism, stomachaches and dysentery. In the early 20th century, farmers would crush the leaves and place them under the harnesses of horses and mules to repel mosquitoes. Crushing leaves and rubbing on your skin can also deter fire ants, ticks, deer flies and mosquitoes. Some people are allergic to the hairy leaves and it may cause contact dermatitis--make sure you’re not allergic before applying directly to your skin. The two compounds responsible for the repellant are callicarpenal and intermedeol. GROWING CONDITIONS: SOIL Prefers well-drained, moist soil rich in organic matter, but can tolerate sand or clay soils, too. Appreciates mulch to help keep roots protected and moist while becoming established. Handles a wide range of pH levels (4.8-7.0). SUNLIGHT Full sun is best for fruit production, but can tolerate light shade HEIGHT/WIDTH 3-8’ tall and wide--size can be easily managed with pruning in late winter/early spring ZONES (6)7-10 – American beautyberry is intolerant to cold temperatures in single digits or below, especially in younger more susceptible plants. If growing in zone 6, planting in a container and moving under cover in the winter could be beneficial.

The best time of year to plant trees and shrubs is fall, and this includes your fruit bearing trees and shrubs! As we enter the fall season, the more moderate temperatures, increased chances of rainfall, and less intense sunlight reduce transplanting stress and allows trees and shrubs to focus their energy on root development. The cool air and warm soil stimulate root growth and can help your trees and shrubs become established in the landscape before the ground freezes. Fall planting gives you an extra growing season before the stresses of summer heat. We love planting perennial edibles—nothing feels better than harvesting food you've grown, and planting edible shrubs and trees is an investment not just for ourselves, but for future generations. Plus, you're not just feeding yourself, you're feeding wildlife (sometimes more than you'd like)! Here at Painters one of our favorite and most reliable perennial edibles are blueberries. These fruiting bushes are native to our region and relatively easy to maintain once planted. Even the smallest yard can find space for a couple blueberry bushes. I’ve seen them intermixed with other shrubs in formal landscapes since they provide ornamental value (fall leaf color and pretty blooms beloved by bees), while also keeping the fruit closer to the house for ease of harvesting. Growing conditions and pollination preferences Planting Site: Blueberries have a very shallow, fibrous root system, and knowing this will help set you up for planting success. Since 90% of blueberry’s root system in is the first 6” of soil, you’ll need to provide very loose soil to help the shrub develop an extensive root system. Blueberry bushes cannot tolerate extended periods of standing water. The soil at the planting site needs to be well-draining, with organic matter mixed into the top 6” of the planting site. If your planting site is heavy clay, it may be best to install raised beds. Plant blueberries on mounds or on ridged rows to help with drainage. Apply pine mulch (needles, woodchips, bark) at the time of planting to not only protect the shallow root system and to conserve moisture during high temperatures, but to also contribute to the acidity of the soil. Apply mulch 3-5” deep around the base of the bush, making sure to leave 3” around the trunk clear from mulch to prevent insect, disease and pest problems. Sunlight: Blueberries prefer full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight). Partial shade can be tolerated (preferably in the afternoon) but may cause plants to produce fewer blossoms and less fruit. Space the bushes appropriately by taking note of the mature width of the varieties you plant. Leave enough space between the bushes so adequate air flow and sunlight can be attained at full size. Cross-Pollination: Most blueberries need a pollinating partner of a different variety within the same species. Take a look at the pollination chart below to help match blueberry partners. Even the ones that are “self-fruitful” would benefit from another blueberry planted nearby—they’ll often bear more fruit with the presence of a neighbor. Note: not all blueberries on the chart are currently in stock; the chart includes varieties sold at our greenhouse over the last couple of years to help customers match pollinating pairs to existing ones they may have in their landscape. There are three types of blueberries: Rabbiteye, Northern Highbush, and a hybrid of the two – Southern Highbush. Rabbiteye (Vaccinium ashei) The name comes from the rabbit-eye appearance of the pink, immature berries. These blueberries are native to the southeast US Gulf coast states. Rabbiteyes are well-suited to warm climates and can tolerate heat, humidity, drought, and a wider variety of soils than Northern Highbush. These bushes are vigorous growers, and some can reach up to 15-20’ tall! Rabbiteyes bloom earlier and take longer to ripen. The fruit itself is larger with mild/moderate flavor and described as sweet. Rabbiteyes have slightly tougher skin, but this provides better storage life. Rabbiteye varieties in stock at Painters during our Fall 2026 season: Pink Lemonade. Northern Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum) Native range includes northeastern US and parts of Canada. The first cultivars were first selected from the wild in NJ; they are well-adapted to colder climates and are the best species for WNC residents in the mountains and at higher elevations (>2500ft). These cultivars often do not grow as well in the piedmont or coastal plains of NC due to the soils and mild winters. Northern Highbush blueberries require a certain number of chill hours during the winter to set fruit properly. These blueberries are the most common and widely cultivated blueberry type in the US. Moderate growers reach 6-10’ tall. Fruits have a sweet-tart flavor. Northern Highbush varieties in stock at Painters during our Fall 2026 season: Jersey, Elliott, Chandler, Patriot, Sweetheart, Blueray, and Duke. Southern Highbush (Vaccinium hybrid) A hybrid of Rabbiteye and North Highbush, this type of blueberry bush combines characteristics of each to allow a more adaptable bush. The hybridization creates a shorter ripening period (from Northern Highbush) and the low chill hours and adaptability to southern environments (from Rabbiteye). Be mindful of the earlier bloom time on this hybrid, if our area has a spring freeze some crop loss may be experienced with Southern Highbush. Southern Highbush tends to be more compact, ranging from 3-6’ in height depending on the variety. Fruit is balanced in sweet and tangy, like that of Northern Highbush. Southern Highbush varieties in stock at Painters during our Fall 2026 season: none at this time. As always, check out our Availability Lists for sizes, prices and quantities, updated daily during spring and fall season:

Goldenrod has a serious PR problem. For years, it has been the scapegoat for autumn allergies and overlooked as a messy and unremarkable weed by gardeners. But look closer, and you’ll find a plant that is one of the most important players in the late-season garden. Let's clear the air, debunk the myths, and discover why your garden—and the wildlife that visits it—needs the Midas touch of Goldenrod. There are two misconceptions about goldenrod that keep uninformed gardeners from adding this plant to their landscapes. One being allergies. Many believe goldenrod is responsible for seasonal allergies, as it’s an easy target with showy blooms summer through fall. Most allergies are in fact caused by plants with windblown pollen, like Ragweed, which blooms at the same time but isn't as easily spotted. Goldenrod’s pollen is very sticky, requires assistance from bees to transfer the pollen from plant to plant, and is not windborne. The other misconception is that goldenrod is a weed. To the unfamiliar, goldenrod isn’t much to look at during spring or summer. For the first three-quarters of the growing season, goldenrod focuses on growing multiple stems from rhizomes and only vegetative growth is witnessed. To the bloom-centric gardeners, the colony-forming habit and leafy stalks scream “weed!”, but even the unassuming foliage is providing benefits to wildlife, including habitat and food. There are about 50 species of insects that rely on goldenrod before it even blooms, just by feeding on the stem and leaves while in their larval or nymph form. You’ll often see galls along the stems of goldenrod, and many have reported seeing downy woodpeckers and chickadees feeding on the insects that cause the galls. Goldenrod blooms late summer and fall, during a period of the growing season after many other plants have bloomed. This provides a much-needed source of nectar and pollen during a window of time where it’s needed most. Many insects feed on the nectar and pollen, including bees, moths, flies, beetles, wasps, and butterflies, which in turn attracts other insects and birds seeking to feed on these insects. Goldenrod hosts 115 moth and butterfly species as well as specialized bees: Perdita octomaculata, Melissodes fumosus, Colletes simulans and Colletes solidaginis, plus several Andrena species. It’s also a great source of nectar for Monarch butterflies in migration south in autumn. Birds and small mammals will feed on the prolific amount of seeds in late autumn and winter, including squirrels, foxes, raccoons, and opossums. SS Native Showy Goldenrod in early bloom Goldenrod by the Numbers Statistic Impact 115 Species of butterflies and moths hosted (that we know of!) 50+ Types of insects that use the stems/leaves before it even blooms (that we know of!) 6 Feet Height some wild species can reach Zero Amount of Goldenrod pollen typically found in the air 1.618 (The Golden Ratio) the closest number that quantifies how the human eye appreciate this gorgeous pollinator plant, known as the Golden Ratio* (A.K.A. it's pretty!) Now that we all understand goldenrod’s importance to wildlife, how can we, as stewards and garden-enthusiasts, add it to our landscapes? Goldenrod is an exceptionally adaptable perennial that thrives in conditions where other plants struggle. Naturally found across prairies, roadsides, forests, and swamps, most species prefer full sun, handle clay or dry soils with ease, and are generally resistant to deer and rabbits. While some straight species can reach up to six feet tall, goldenrod is remarkably low-maintenance once established, making it a reliable performer in tough spots. When integrating goldenrod into your yard, consider how its size and habit fit your garden goals. Taller, straight species are perfect for naturalizing meadows, lining driveways, or stabilizing slopes where they have space to spread. For a more manicured look, compact cultivars and nativars deliver the same vital pollinator benefits in a garden-friendly size. For the maximum visual and ecological impact, plant goldenrod in sweeps alongside asters and other fall-blooming perennials for a breathtaking color display that fuels pollinators when they need it most! Wrinkleleaf Goldenrod Solidago rugosa *Finally, we know it's important, but how about so pretty too! Many plants and pollinator flowers—like sunflowers, daisies, coneflowers (and goldenrod in the Asteraceae/sunflower family)—grow their petals and seeds in Fibonacci sequences. The ratio between consecutive Fibonacci numbers approximates 1.618 which is known as the Golden Ratio. Brain-imaging studies suggest that the human eye can scan images featuring the Golden Ratio much faster, thus subconsciously registering them as gorgeous, harmonious, and aesthetically pleasing! So mathematically, our brains like it. And also just because of its bright yellow golden POP in the landscape—it is just too stunning to pass on! We love it combined with purple fall wildflowers or contrasting with cool blue grasses. However you use it, it's a beauty! Below are a few of our favorite varieties of goldenrod at Painters Greenhouse. All prefer full sun and are hardy in zones 3-9 with the main variations between them being height, size, habit, and species. Goldenrod, Grass-Leaved Euthamia [Solidago] graminifolia (A.k.a. Flat-Top Goldenrod ) This slender, sweeping native will reach 3-5' and 1-2' wide. Spreads vigorously, good for erosion control, meadows, and wilder spaces. Wrinkleleaf Goldenrod Solidago rugosa Straight species native growing to 3-5' tall and 2-3' wide. Can tolerate light shade and swampy, wet soil—a good choice for rain gardens! Bog Goldenrod Solidago uliginosa Stiff Goldenrod Oligoneuron rigidum [Solidago rigida] Native perennial. 3-5' tall, 2-3' wide. Thrives in a wide range of tough conditions, from clay to sand; beautiful and highly beneficial. Well-behaved clump-forming habit that does not aggressively spread via underground roots. Showy Goldenrod Solidago speciosa At 2-3' tall and wide, it's a bit shorter than other straight species natives. Bears upright, dense, club-like yellow flower clusters rather than flat-topped or sideways-arching plumes. The fluffy yellow blooms mid to late summer, truly among the showiest of all goldenrods. Bog Goldenrod Solidago uliginosa This native, as its name suggests, thrives in moist to wet soil. Upright, wand-like clusters. Naturally found in marshy areas, wet meadows, and water margins and grows to 2-4' tall and wide. 'Golden Baby' Solidago hybrid at Painters 'Golden Baby' Solidago hybrid Compact form with strong stems make it a great cut flower. Reaching 18-24” tall and 8-12” wide. 'Spark Plug' Solidago hybrid Tight and neat habit only reaching 12-18” tall and wide with classic, bright yellow goldenrod blooms. Suitable for smaller spaces or containers. Short's Goldenrod 'Solar Cascade' Solidago shortii 2-3' tall, 1-2' wide. Cultivar developed as part of an effort to save Short's goldenrod, an endangered species. Thrives in poor, gravelly, well-drained soils; drought tolerant once established To find our most current and up to date quantities, varieties, sizes, and prices, check out this season's Growing and Availability Lists: Solidago x 'Spark Plug' just starting to bloom

“Our Plant This, Not That” series is intended as a helpful starter tool for choosing non-invasive alternatives. If it is sold at a garden store, it should be harmless, right!? If only this were always true! At Painters, we routinely assess our program to ensure we never sell plants that are deemed invasive in North Carolina. Invasive plants grow quickly and spread rapidly, outcompeting natives in our natural environment. They can create silos of monoculture that not only reduces plant variety, but significantly alter habitats, making it difficult for native insects, birds, and mammals to find the resources they need to live, eat, and reproduce. They can affect farmlands and forests and even infrastructure, becoming costly in a number of ways. Sometimes we see the clear impact (like when the non-native wisteria eats grandma’s front porch!) but sometimes the impact is felt further afield. Seeds travel through wind and water, birds and animals. You may think 'what’s the harm' in leaving that butterfly bush or Japanese beautyberry—they’re so beautiful! But just because you don’t see them nearby doesn’t mean they aren't reseeding the forest edge two valleys over. Birds and insects and wind can disperse seeds long distances! And while you might be really good at pruning back or weeding down, who’s to tend that aggressive plant in 50 years? Or downstream? Or the train-track right-of-way? By choosing native alternatives or non-invasive options, we can offer a more comprehensive and sustainable support system for our local wildlife and insect populations and contribute to the overall health and biodiversity of our WNC environment. There are many stunning native flowering plants that are just as enticing to all of us! Let’s give you some great alternatives! Click the arrows to expand through our lists: Burning Bush Basics Let's start off with a word association game. Perhaps one for Burning Bush or Euonymus alatus. Also commonly known as "the shrub with the fiery red leaves that is all over town." Get a piece of paper and jot down all the words you can think of to describe Burning Bush.... Since I'm the only one writing here, I'll start. brilliant fiery RED fall foliage striking berries Winged Euonymus autumn blazing birds Winged Spindle Tree ever so pretty Also very much: exotic banned aggressive rampant non-sustaining invasive weedy a real bummer of a shrub Winged euonymus infestation. Photo by Leslie J. Mehrhoff, University of Connecticut Burning bush is pretty, yes. But it's a sticky wicket (as my mother would say). It forms dense thickets and out-competes our best native species. It reduces biodiversity in its thuggish spread. Those beautiful red berries on it that the birds love—they are so prolific that those seeds are now EVERYWHERE. Disrupting habitats all over the place! And as with many plants that did not evolve in WNC, our wildlife has not evolved to use their leaves as a source of food. Moths, butterflies, and other insects won’t lay their eggs on their leaves. Meaning there are less homes for future butterflies and no caterpillars to provide food for our songbirds. (...it's all a bit more complicated than that, but it's basically what it boils down to!) It's a real bummer of a shrub! You don't even have to take our word for it. It's such a bummer that the sale and cultivation of burning bush has been restricted or banned in several states. Let's all get on board in reducing its spread! Luckily we have lots of other GORGEOUS choices for your yards and gardens. Read a bit about each and shop our availability at Painters this season: Chokeberry Aronia spp. a favorite substitute here at Painters, it has brilliant red foliage in the fall and edible blueberry-like fruits that are highly attractive to birds Staghorn Sumac Rhus typhina or Smooth Sumac Rhus glabra great for banks and renown for autumn color; displays brilliant shades of yellow, orange, scarlet, and deep red, often appearing as though the plant is on fire Virginia Sweetspire Itea virginica fragrant white flowers in spring and intense reddish-purple foliage in fall Dwarf Fothergilla Fothergilla gardenii provides spectacular fall foliage—a brilliant, multi-colored mix of yellow, orange, red, and burgundy, often showing multiple colors on the same plant at the same time—and showy flowers in spring Oakleaf Hydrangea Hydrangea quercifolia a surefire crowd favorite, beautiful blooms in spring and summer PLUS brilliant shades of red, mahogany, burgundy, and purple in fall Possumhaw Viburnum 'Winterthur' Viburnum nudum blue-black berry clusters and vibrant red foliage in fall Red Twig Dogwood Cornus sericea excellent for erosion control or a native pollinator garden plus a winter garden superstar with those brilliant red stems Highbush blueberry Vaccinium corymbosum not just good for their fruit, also gorgeous in fall with shades of red, orange, purple, yellow, maroon, and bronze Winterberry Ilex verticillata while the leaves will drop relatively early, the vibrant red berries last through the winter, a beautiful winter addition plus providing food for songbirds and other wildlife Serviceberry Amelanchier spp. a versatile native shrub or tree with outstanding year-round appeal, including delicate white flowers in spring, edible reddish-purple berries in summer, and foliage that turns fiery shades of red, orange, and yellow in fall American Beautyberry Callicarpa americana while not red or fiery, the leaves turn a chartreuse or soft yellow in the fall alongside the most stunning clusters of bright purple berries that last well into winter—a valuable food source for many wildlife species (not to be confused with the invasive asian varieties) Find these options and more at Painters! Check out our Availability Page to find varieties, sizes, prices, and more: Butterfly Bush: Not as Sweet as It Seems Butterfly Bush Buddleja davidii (or Buddleia davidii) Who doesn't want a plant called a Butterfly Bush!? Such savvy marketing leads us astray! Maybe you love Butterfly Bushes for their shape and color and their interesting blooms. Or maybe you love them for their drought tolerance and easy care. Or maybe you really love them because you really love butterflies! (I’m betting this is our main camp!) So why would we ever ask you to NOT plant that next butterfly bush? This one is a hard one! Butterfly bushes are such pretty plants. We love pretty plants! (Have you SEEN our Instagram feed!?!) Wandering through our many growing spaces at Painters, one could even presume that pretty is our only game. 😀 But in the many years we’ve been growing and selling plants, we learn more and more the importance of beneficial alongside beauty. We want to appreciate and support diverse wildlife alongside an aesthetically beautiful natural space. And frankly, it’s an easy thing to do once you realize how many plants are both beautiful AND beneficial! Butterfly bushes are undeniably attractive to butterflies with their abundant nectar. They draw adult butterflies with their flower spikes, but butterfly species need resources in all stages of life. Native to China, butterfly bush is not a host plant for any native North American butterfly caterpillars, meaning they cannot use it as a food source. Without caterpillars, there will be no adult butterflies. Also without caterpillars, birds will not survive. The last thing any of us intended when planting that pretty butterfly bush is a decline of local butterfly and bird populations, but that could be an indirect result. While the nectar may feed adults, their young need food too. Buddleia can inadvertently disrupt local ecosystems in other ways too. Each of their many flower spikes can produce up to 40,000 tiny dust-like seeds. Add wind and water and this non-native, easy-to-grow plant becomes quite prolific. Sometimes spreading into edge habitats and outcompeting native plants that our local butterflies and other pollinators rely on for food and shelter throughout their entire life cycle–not just for nectar. By choosing native alternatives, we can offer a more comprehensive and sustainable support system for our local butterfly populations and contribute to the overall health and biodiversity of our WNC environment. There are many stunning native flowering plants that are just as enticing to butterflies and play a critical role in our local food web. Let’s give you some great alternatives! You can create a haven for local butterflies and other pollinators by selecting a native flowering shrub that thrives in your specific site. For sunny locations, Sweet Pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia) and Virginia Sweetspire (Itea virginica) are beautiful and beneficial options. If you have wetter soil, Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) is a great choice with incredibly fun blooms that support a multitude of moths and bees as well as butterflies, as is New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) with its large, airy blooms that are highly beneficial to a range of pollinators. If you are seeking drought tolerant plants that are easy care and you're especially tied to the blue color of many butterfly bushes, Bluebeard (Caryopteris) and Lilac Chaste Tree (Vitex) are pollinator magnets that perform in dry heat. While not native, and therefore not providing food for caterpillars, they are not invasive and therefore shouldn't push out native food sources. If you choose either of these, we recommend planting a variety of native food sources nearby to ensure caterpillars have needed support (such as the above native shrubs, native hibiscus, Pussy Willow, Joe-Pye, asters and goldenrod). You can also attract and feed a multitude of butterflies by planting drifts of tall perennials such as Anise Hyssop (Agastache), Blazing Star (Liatris), various Joe-Pye Weed species (Eutrochium), and different milkweed species (Asclepias, etc). We specifically love the Anise Hyssop because of its gorgeous spike blooms similar to the Butterfly Bush and how full and large it grows during the season. Anise Hyssop Chinese and Japanese Wisteria: Pretty but Problematic Who doesn’t absolutely love a gorgeous spring bloom? At the end of a long cold winter, the sight of a full and fragrant cluster of blooms is like coming up for air. This time of year, you may be finding yourself admiring those groupings of spring blooming vines with all the pendulous purple flowers. Wisteria is so lovely! But did you know that most wisteria you see is non-native? Read more about why we should consider alternatives and then find a great list of substitutes below. Both Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) were introduced to the U.S. in the 1800s as a favored plant for climbing trellises, gazebos, and porches. It provided dense shade and was exceptionally fast growing. "We" thought this was a darling option! Unfortunately the collective "Past Us” was not doing a favor for “Future Us.” We know better now! These non-native wisteria are now considered invasive in at least 19 states. Both are aggressive vines that can reach up to 70 feet with 15 inch stems (or more)! These invasive vines can easily choke or kill native trees by shading out foliage and girding tree trunks. Understory plants and shrubs are smothered or killed beneath the heavy weight or shaded out completely. And these non-native wisterias often outcompete native plants for resources in North Carolina, most commonly in disturbed areas like forest edges. They easily spread by runners and seeds so even with our best intentions, they are incredibly hard to contain. Plus horror stories abound of smashed gutters, split siding, and even structural/foundation issues. The collective present-day "Us” might be looking for less costly and more beneficial alternatives! Fortunately, we have plentiful, gorgeous alternatives! Check out these native perennial vines at Painters this spring: Passiflora incarnata Passionflower vine NATIVE perennial vine (z5-9) full sun-part shade, climbing 6-8' Utterly extraordinary spring blooms, plus edible fruits, known as maypops Thrives in well-drained soil, drought tolerant; spreads by root suckers Important larval host plant with exceptional wildlife value, as beneficial as it is beautiful Bignonia capreolata Crossvine ‘Tangerine Beauty’ NATIVAR perennial vine (z5-9) full-part sun, up to 30' climb Abundant long-lasting tangerine blooms bring hummingbirds galore Easily attaches to most surfaces by tendrils Tolerates partial shade, but best flower production occurs in full sun Campsis radicans Trumpet vine ‘Flava’ NATIVAR perennial vine (z4-10) full sun-part shade, 30-40' climb Attractive orange-yellow summer blooms, adored by hummingbirds Needs a sturdy structure for support; an aggressive spreader, best kept contained Can cause skin irritation on contact; aka cow-itch An aggressive spreader, best kept contained; can cause skin irritation (aka cow-itch) Gelsemium sempervirens Carolina jessamine NATIVE perennial vine (z6-10) full-part sun, 10-20' climb, 4-8' wide Masses of yellow flowers in early spring, adored by hummingbirds Semi-evergreen foliage takes on a burgundy tinge in cool weather Happily grows up trellises or arbors; planter beware: highly toxic if ingested Lonicera sempervirens Coral honeysuckle NATIVE perennial vine (z4-9) full sun, 15-25' climb Coral red-yellow trumpet blooms spring to fall, semi-evergreen Blooms bring pollinators, fall berries attract birds A lovely native alternative to more aggressive honeysuckle vines, adored by hummingbirds! Lonicera sempervirens Coral honeysuckle ‘Magnifica’ NATIVAR semi-evergreen vine (z4-8) full-part sun, 7-10' climb Sweetly scented, bright orange, tubular blooms; after flowering, red fruits provide food for birds Twines beautifully up trellises or other support; a favorite of hummingbirds! Lonicera sempervirens Coral honeysuckle ‘Major Wheeler’ NATIVAR deciduous perennial vine (z4-8) full sun, climbing up to 10' Abundant red trumpet flowers spring-fall; valuable for wildlife, hummingbird magnet! Needs support to climb; not invasive and easy to grow, amenable to pruning Not invasive and easy to grow; beautiful and highly valuable for wildlife In previous seasons, Painters has carried American wisteria (specifically, Wisteria frutescens 'Amethyst Falls') and hope to again soon. The native species is not only a nectar source for butterflies and native insects, but it is also the larval host for silver-spotted skipper butterflies. A solid alternative choice! As always, for more current prices, sizes, and varieties, view our Growing List and Availability Pages on our website: Bradford Pear Alternatives Bradford pear is a popular cultivar of the Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana) native to China and Vietnam. White spring blooms, dark glossy leaves, and a tight pyramidal growth habit has made Bradford pear a common ornamental chosen for landscapes. Bradford pear was originally bred to be sterile and the flowers unable to pollinate themselves. As more cultivars of Callery Pear entered the market, more opportunities for cross-pollination arose, fruit with viable seeds were produced and birds helped spread. You can now find thick stands of thorny Callery Pear escaped from cultivation and present along roadways, fence lines, and edges of cleared land. Chances are the white blooming trees you often see this time of year are seedlings from Bradford pears. The thorny Bradford pear offspring are not desirable to deer browsing, have such a dark, thick canopy it easily outcompetes native vegetation, and grows vigorously—all of these traits allow it to become extremely competitive with native vegetation. Aggressive Bradford pear trees -- Photo credit: NC Cooperative Extension In addition to their invasive qualities, Bradford pear blooms have an unpleasant smell, a fishy or rotting meat odor attracts carrion-loving beetles and flies, which are the original pollinators of the Callery tree. With their rapid growth rate the limbs and trunk are structurally weak and often split and fail within 10-20 years of its lifespan. Serviceberry as a Gorgeous alternative! Here are some options to replace your Bradford pears that will provide more than just ornamental value, but also ecological value and a longer lifespan. These small deciduous tree choices are all native to western North Carolina and often in stock at Painters Greenhouse Check sizes, prices, and current availability on our website: https://www.paintersgreenhouse.com/tree-shrub-availability Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) White blooms in early spring (aligns with Bradford pear bloomtime), usually reaches 25’ in height and width at maturity, edible fruit and stunning fall color. White Fringe Tree (Chionanthus virginicus) White, fragrant, dainty blooms in spring, reaches 12-20’ in height and width, produces fruit (similar to olives) appealing to wildlife if a male and female tree are present. Redbud (Cercis canadensis) Magenta spring blooms present before leaves, reaches 20-30’ tall and wide, valuable nectar and pollen source for bees when food sources are scarce. Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida) White spring bloomer, reaches 15-25’ tall and wide, beautiful fall foliage. Carolina Silverbell (Halesia Carolina) Showy white blooms in late April/early May droop from dainty limbs, slowly reaches 20-30’ tall and wide, canopy is open-form with a loose pyramidal shaped crown. Substitutes for Pampas Grass and Miscanthus TLDR: Reseeds to the point of invasiveness. Highly flammable. Also scarily sharp. We’ve got great alternatives here at Painters! In this segment of our invasive alternatives, we hope to shed some light on two commonly requested grasses: pampas grass and miscanthus or eulalia (also referred to as Chinese or Japanese silvergrass). Whatever the name, I call it Trouble! Both Miscanthus sinensis (Eulalia) or Cortaderia selloana Pampas Grass were brought to the United States from their native regions (Asia for Miscanthus and South America for Pampas Grass) for use as ornamental grasses. But their flaws make them more danger than delight. Pampas grass’s whip-like blades are terrifyingly sharp. (When we refer to their blades, it’s the truth—a literal stand of knives!) Not only difficult to garden around, but dangerous to children, pets, and other wildlife. The serrated edges make for undesirable habitat and if ingested, the sharp blades can cut mouths, throats, or digestive tracts of pets. Not only threatening physically, a single pampas grass plume can produce 100,000 seeds each year and once lifted into the wind, they can colonize large swaths in unintended areas. Similarly, miscanthus also reseeds to the point of invasiveness in our region—because they often favor disturbed sites such as roadsides they can be assumed less problematic, but edge habitats are critical to many species of birds, mammals, pollinators and more. Plus miscanthus has a large rhizomatus root structure that once established is incredibly difficult to eradicate. Both of these invasive grasses also have high flammability ratings—invasive plant species as a whole tend to grow rapidly and form large monoculture stands creating conditions where wildfire is more prevalent and also more intense. These invasive grasses have a multiplying effect on that tendency. They dry out in mid-to late summer and fall becoming highly combustible and dangerous in the case of fire. Add this to a woodland edge and the whole region increases its risk. But maybe you really love how pretty they look! If you are drawn to the tall and dramatic presentation of these ornamental grasses, any Big Bluestem is a great alternative. Tall and attractive with striking seedheads for visual interest throughout the seasons, these grasses are also incredibly beneficial for birds and wildlife in the winter. Leaving the seedheads provides food for wildlife and makes a great winter habitat. Just prune it all back in the spring. Painters loves to carry a wonderful variety of options. During our 2025 season at Painters we carried the straight species Big Bluestem plus three gorgeous varieties ‘Holy Smoke,’ ‘Blackhawks,’ and ‘Red October.’ Check current availability on our website: 'Karl Foerster' Feather Reed Grass photo from Walters Gardens, Inc. Another incredible alternative is Karl Foerster feather reed grass. This is the most similar in appearance to pampas grass so you don’t have to sacrifice beauty! It’s an ornamental grass whose seedheads are sterile so no worry about it colonizing outside of your garden. It is easy to grow and the plumes last a really long time. Beneficial AND beautiful! Read more about falling in love with grasses in our blog:

Evergreen hedges are planted for a variety of reasons: privacy, wind block, noise dampener, and even to create “rooms” within a landscape. Regardless of your reasons, we have plenty of options to help create an evergreen hedge to suit your growing conditions and needs. When planning, make sure to take into consideration the following factors: SUNLIGHT How much sun does your planting site get? It’s important to install plants that will thrive in the light conditions you have. Full sun = 6+ hours of direct sunlight per day Part sun = 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day, with some hours being in the afternoon (does not need to be contiguous hrs.) Part shade = 4-6 hours of direct sunlight per day, but most should be coming in the morning when the sun’s rays are less intense Full shade = Between 1.5-4 hours of sunlight, preferably in the morning DIMENSIONS How much planting space do you have? Make sure to take measurements of both the length and the width of the planting area to determine how many plants you’ll have room for. This is especially important if you’re planting along a property boundary – be clear where the line is and how much room for growth you have, so you won't encroach on a neighbor’s space. HEIGHT Don’t forget to look up! Do you have power lines that run overhead, an existing tree canopy, or an awning/roofline? You’ll need to be conscious of the maximum height you can work with for the site, too. HOW TO PLANT FOR NATURAL SCREENING Too often screening is planted in a straight line using only one species. This planting style can be easy and economical, but it can also be problematic in the future if one tree were to die leaving a seemingly big gap in the screening. Planting in a monoculture can also be problematic if a species-specific disease were to infect the area as it can wipe out the whole stand. If your planting space’s width allows, it can be beneficial to add different plant species in a staggered, zig-zag pattern (see the above diagram). Not only will this planting style allow for improved visual interest with varied textures, but it can also quickly give the appearance of a denser screening. Finally, more diversity of plants means more wildlife benefits. (Note that if your screen doesn't need to be extremely tall, there are a lot of native shrub and tree options that are both beautiful and beneficial, though most aren't evergreen. Click here for a great article listing 15 natives for screening.) It can be tempting to plant a dense row of plants to add “instant screening”, but it’s important to space your hedge appropriately to allow plants enough space to account for their mature width, which plans for appropriate air circulation for a healthy hedge! If instant screening is a must consider purchasing larger field-grown plants from a field-grown tree nursery. These larger plants can be dug, balled-and-burlapped, and often delivered to your residence. Another option is to install plants densely and plan to remove/cut down every other tree several years later once it’s filled in and to allow for more space as the trees mature. This article focuses on evergreen trees and shrubs, but note that screening can be accomplished in a variety of ways! If screening a small space, consider vines on trellises or large containers filled with tall grasses or flowering perennials. TREES & SHRUBS FOR SCREENING Shade Options Part Shade/Part Sun Options Full Sun Options TLDR: Quick Guide SHADE OPTIONS Skip Laurel – Prunus laurocerasus ‘Schipkaensis’ Goblet-shaped form – plan for the height to be twice the width. A great option as a hedge in shadier areas or areas receiving dappled shade/filtered sun. Lower branches are a bit loose, if the desired effect is dense foliage from the top down, be sure to plant lower shrubs in the foreground of the planting bed. White blooms in spring. A very resilient and easy to care for shrub – tolerant of shearing. USDA Growing Zones: 6-9 Height: 10-15’ (moderate growing, reaches 6-10’ in 10 years) Spread: 5-7’ Sun Exposure: Full shade, part shade, part sun – very versatile with light needs! Soil Needs: Very adaptable – tolerant of dry/poor soils, alkaline or acidic soil. The only requirement is that the soil drains well and the shrub is not in standing water. It may need more water in hot summers. Rhododendron (photo: NC State Extension) Rhododendron – Rhododendron hybrids & Rhododendron catawbiense A great evergreen option that adds vibrant color in spring! Shorter varieties can be used in the foreground of a staggered privacy hedge, while taller varieties can reach up to 10’ in height and can stand on its own as a privacy screen. USDA Growing Zones: 4-8 Height: 4-10’ (depending on variety) Spread: 4-10’ (depending on variety) Sun Exposure: Prefers dappled shade throughout the day, next best is morning sun and afternoon shade Soil Needs: Moist soil, well-draining soil with an abundance of organic matter. Prefers acidic soil (pH between 4.5-6.0). Rhododendrons have shallow, fine hair-like roots – make sure not to plant too deeply to allow adequate oxygen for healthy root growth (and don't smother the roots with mulch). Several varieties and hybrids of Rhododendron often available at Painters Greenhouse: Nova Zembla – Bright red flowers PJM Elite – Lavender-pink blooms, exceptionally cold hardy Chionoides – Creamy white flowers with yellow centers Grandiflorum – Long-lasting, lilac-purple blooms Roseum Pink – Large, clear pink flowers PART SHADE/PART SUN OPTIONS Fragrant Tea Olive / Sweet Olive (photo: NC State Extension) Fragrant Tea Olive / Sweet Olive – Osmanthus fragrans A dense shrub with extremely fragrant flowers in spring, and blooms sporadically again in the fall. Note Sweet Olive is hardy to zone 8 – it may not make it through an especially cold winter if you’re in zone 7 or below. USDA Growing Zones: 8-10 Height: 10-20’ Spread: 10-20’ Sun Exposure: Full sun/part shade (afternoon shade preferred in hot southern climates) Soil Needs: Moist soil with good drainage. Drought tolerant once established. Can tolerate heavy clay soils. Viburnum 'Pragense' - Photo by Jerzy Opioła Prague Viburnum - Viburnum ‘Pragense’ This rounded, multi-stemmed evergreen shrub is known for its glossy leaves and fragrant blooms. It works as an excellent hedge (it's quite amenable to pruning!) or specimen plant. Plus, it is generally considered deer resistant. USDA Growing Zones: 5-8 Height: 8-12’ Spread: 8-12’ Sun Exposure: Full sun/part shade Soil Needs: Moist, well-drained soil. Sasanqua Camellias Camellia sasanqua 'Yuletide' This species of camellias blooms much earlier than Camellia japonica. Blooms appear in late-fall to early-winter, giving a showy display during the holidays. Space camellias appropriately to promote good air circulation. Look at your zone when selecting camellias – some are more tolerant of cold than others. If you are on the cusp, make sure to plant camellias in part shade to allow for less drastic swings in temperatures in the winter. All camellias prefer well-drained, loose, acidic soil. Avoid standing water as they are prone to root rot. Camellia ‘Slim n’ Trim’ Camellia sasanqua USDA Growing Zones: 7b-9 Height: 6-8’ tall Spread: 3-4’ wide Known for its Deep pink blooms Camellia ‘Yuletide’ Camellia sasanqua USDA Growing Zones: 7-9 Height: 8-10' tall Spread: 8-10’ wide Known for its fiery red blooms with bright yellow stamens in the center Camellia ‘Just Chill Red Tip’ – Camellia hybrid USDA Growing Zones: 7-9 Height: 5-8’ tall Spread: 3-5’ wide Known for its light pink blooms Nellie R. Stevens Holly (photo: NC State Extension) Nellie R. Stevens Holly – Ilex cornuta x aquifolium ‘Nellie R. Stevens’ An attractive, broad pyramidal-shaped female holly with an abundance of red berries – no male holly needed to cross-pollinate for fruit to set! Berries present in fall through winter. This selection was bred to tolerate southern summers and is heat, drought, and air pollution tolerant! USDA Growing Zones: 6-9 Height: 15-20’ Spread: 8-12’ Sun Exposure: Full sun, part shade Soil Needs: Prefers slightly acidic, medium-moist, well-drained soils Pieris japonica ‘Mountain Fire’ ‘Mountain Fire’ Japanese Andromeda – Pieris japonica ‘Mountain Fire’ Japanese Andromeda is an early blooming shrub with drooping clusters of white bell-shaped flowers. Bees love this shrub! New growth at stem tips is a scarlet red and contrasts well with existing dark green growth. USDA Growing Zones: 5-8 Height: reaches 6-10’ (slower growing) Spread: reaches 6-10’ (slower growing) Sun Exposure: Part shade / Part sun Soil Needs: Prefers moist, well-drained acidic soil FULL SUN OPTIONS Angelica Blue Juniper (Photo: Plantmaster.com) Angelica Blue Juniper – Juniperus chinensis ‘Angelica Blue’ An excellent option for low screening, windbreak, or in the front row of a staggered planting. Adds a feathery texture and a pop of silvery blue/green color. Tolerant of drought, heat, winds, and deer do not prefer to browse on it! USDA Growing Zones: 3-9 Height: 4-5’ Spread: 5-10’ Sun Exposure: Full sun preferred; part sun tolerated Soil Needs: Prefers well-drained soil, does not tolerate standing water King’s Gold False Cypress (Gold Mop) (photo: NC State Extension) King’s Gold False Cypress (Gold Mop) – Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘King’s Gold’ A shorter and slower growing option but adds a spray of bright green and golden color with threadlike texture. Works well in areas with limited overhead height and in the foreground of staggered plantings. Relatively low maintenance, drought tolerant, and deer resistant! USDA Growing Zones: 5-9 Height: Eventually reaching 5’ Spread: Eventually reaching 7’ Sun Exposure: Full sun preferred; part sun tolerated Soil Needs: Prefers well-drained soil, does not tolerate standing water. Steeds Japanese Holly (photo: NC State Extension) Steeds Japanese Holly – Ilex crenata ‘Steeds’ Upright pyramidal shrub with dense, lustrous, dark green foliage. The leaves of Japanese Holly are not pointy like those of a typical holly, they are rounded! Very easy to grow, virtually maintenance-free - if you’re looking for a tidy form like a boxwood this is your plant! It responds well to shearing and can work as a more formal hedge (see above) if desired. USDA Growing Zones: 5-9 Height: 6-8’ Spread: 5-6’ Sun Exposure: Full sun preferred; part sun tolerated Soil Needs: Adaptable to a wide range of soils, just needs to be well-draining Fernspray False Cypress (Photo: Taylornursery.com) Fernspray False Cypress – Chaemaecyparis obtusa ‘Fernspray’ A very graceful, open, irregular habit with a lot of personality! Fern-like green foliage adds a different texture among mixed planting screenings. USDA Growing Zones: 4-8 Height: Slow growing to 10-20’ Spread: 8-16’ Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil Needs: Well draining soil, adaptable to most soil types Hiba Arborvitae Hiba Arborvitae - Thujopsis dolabrata Hiba has some of the most interesting foliage – shaped like fan coral and with emerald green on the top side and contrasting silvery green on the underside. Its overall shape is pyramidal and dense with horizontal branching structure that sweeps upward at the tips. This is not the best option for windbreaks, as it can be susceptible to winter burn. USDA Growing Zones: 5-7 Height: Slow growing to 30-40’ Spread: 15-20’ Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil Needs: Moist, well-drained soil Janed Gold Arborvitae – Thuja occidentalis ‘Janed Gold’ Janed Gold Arborvitae – Thuja occidentalis ‘Janed Gold’ This is a great columnar option for narrow spaces! Beautiful golden tips and dense conical shape. If it’s planted in shade, the plant will lose its bright coloring and dense habit from stretching. Responds well to shearing in early spring. It is one of the lowest maintenance and showiest! USDA Growing Zones: 5-8 Height: 8’ at 10 years / 20’ at maturity Spread: 4-5’ Sun Exposure: Full sun Soil Needs: Average, moist, well-drained soils Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald Green’ (photo: fast-growing-trees.net) Emerald Green Arborvitae – Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald Green’ Another columnar option for narrow planting sites. Dense, tight foliage with a pyramidal shape. Slower growing when compared to Green Giants and Leyland. Tolerant of the heat and humidity of the south and can tolerate periods of drought when established. USDA Growing Zones: 4-8 Height: 10-15’ Spread: 3-4’ Sun Exposure: Full sun Soil Needs: Prefer moist, but well-drained soils Arborvitae ‘Emerald Squeeze’ – Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald Squeeze’ This dense, compact cultivar is perfect for mid-height hedging. A very low maintenance tree that keeps a tight shape without the need for pruning. This is a compact alternative to Emerald Green while still grow 1-2’ per year. USDA Growing Zones: 4-8 Height: 6-9’ Spread: 2-4’ Sun Exposure: Full sun Soil Needs: Thrives in moist, well-drained soil Leyland Cypress – Cupressocyparis leylandii Leyland Cypress – Cupressocyparis leylandii An easy-to-care-for hedge option with fine, feathery, soft blue-green needles on flattened branches. Noted for its rapid growth (3-5’ per year!), it’s one of the most planted privacy trees. This is the tree for those with little patience for a privacy hedge to fill in and with plenty of space for it to grow. Because Leylands can get so large, you’ll need to account for enough overhead space and also any neighboring structures the roots may cause damage to (sidewalks, foundations, etc.). This is a great tree for an instant hedge, just be mindful that you’ll need to remove individuals after 5-10 years to avoid crowded growing conditions – and be aware that this fast grower doesn’t last forever, average life expectancy of 10-25 years. USDA Growing Zones: 6-10 Height: 60-90’ Spread: 10-15’ Sun Exposure: Full sun Soil Needs: Will grow in a wide range of soils as long as it’s well-drained Leyland Cypress ‘Shorty’ – x Cupressocyparis leylandii ‘Reco Shorty’ If your landscape has a height limit, then this variety of Leyland Cypress will be a better fit while still featuring the same attractive foliage, but in a more manageable package. ‘Shorty’ is a slower-grower and makes a great addition to hedges. USDA Growing Zones: 6-8 Height: 5-10’ Spread: 2-4' Sun Exposure: Full sun Soil Needs: Well-drained soil Green Giant Arborvitae (Photo credit: Missouri Botanical Garden) Green Giant Arborvitae – Thuja x ‘Standishii’ With a dense, narrow, pyramidal habit, that can be kept more compact for screens or hedges with regular pruning. Can be planted 5-6’ apart for a dense privacy screen. Fast growing, with up to 3’ new growth per year when planted in a preferred planting site (note, green giants can tolerate clay soils, but won’t grow as fast). USDA Growing Zones: 5-8 Height: 40-60’ Spread: 12-18’ Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil Needs: Moist, well-drained soils – does not like highly compacted soils or ones that stay soggy Arborvitae ‘Green Splendor’ – Thuja plicata ‘Green Splendor’ Here’s an alternative to the popular green giant variety with a more slender, columnar habit. Still reaching tall heights, it can grow at an average rate of 1-2’ per year! USDA Growing Zones: 5-9 Height: 30-50’ Spread: 8-12' Sun Exposure: Full sun, part shade Soil Needs: Thrives in moist, acidic, well-drained soil Japanese Cedar ‘Yoshino’ – Cryptomeria japonica ‘Yoshino’ Cryptomerias are known for their tight needles spirally arranged around the stem giving the tree a feathery, ropy, stiff appearance when compared to Arborvitae. The fluffy foliage holds its color well throughout winter, taking on only a slight bronze tinge. This very fast grower putting on 2-4’ each year. USDA Growing Zones: 5-8 Height: 30-40’ Spread: 20-30’ Sun Exposure: Full sun, part shade Soil Needs: Rich, moist, well-drained soil. Does not tolerate drought or soggy soils. Magnolia grandiflora 'Kay Parris' (Photo credit: NCSU Extension) Southern Magnolia – Magnolia grandiflora ‘Kay Parris’ This evergreen tree is a nativar that is loved for its large, white, wonderfully fragrant spring blooms and lustrous leaves with rusty undersides. This compact variety features a dense, upright, columnar habit making it a good choice for tighter spaces. USDA Growing Zones: 6-9 Height: 15-25’ Spread: 8-10' Sun Exposure: Full sun, part shade Soil Needs: Thrives in rich, moist, well-drained soil As always, find current sizes, prices, and quantities on our website: Click here for a quick copy of this list!

Black walnut (Juglans nigra) is a common tree in our area that is valued for its many qualities – edible hard mast (nuts) for wildlife and humans, leaves as food for over 100 species of moth and butterfly larvae, attracting songbirds to the landscape, valuable wood for furniture and cabinet making, and high tannin content for dying. While black walnuts are prized for many attributes, they also cause gardeners some challenges when planting nearby. Black walnut produces an allelopathic chemical called juglone in all parts of the tree with higher concentrations in the roots, buds, and nut hulls. “Allelopathy” refers to the chemical inhibition of a plant/organism to another, due to the release into the environment of substances acting as germination, growth, survival, or reproduction inhibitors. Allelon which means “of each other”, and pathos which means “to suffer.” Black walnut trees use juglone as a defense mechanism - hindering insect and animal herbivory while also preventing the competitive growth of neighboring plants. What an evolved super-power!! The roots, branches and leaves of the black walnut tree release juglone into the soil, discouraging the growth of other plants nearby and thereby reserving more of the area's natural resources for the tree itself. For many plants, this toxin leads to yellowing leaves, leaf drop, wilting and eventual death. It's very common to see a bare patch around the base of a black walnut tree. What does this mean for gardeners? Be mindful of putting black walnut leaves, twigs, and nuts in your compost – if you do – make sure the compost is aged before applying it to your garden. Be aware there are some plants that can tolerate juglone and others that are highly susceptible to juglone. Sensitive plants would need to be planted outside of the root zone of a black walnut. Plants sensitive to juglone include: some annuals include nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, tobacco, peppers, petunias), cabbages, asparagus sensitive shrubs include blueberry, chokeberry, cotoneaster, hydrangea, lilac, privet, rhododendron, yew, and some viburnum species sensitive trees include linden, white pine, Norway spruce, silver maple, crabapple/apple, willow, red maple Research is fairly limited on which plants can tolerate juglone in their root zones, but here are a couple resources to check out: Note that even if a black walnut tree is removed from your landscape, it could take years for the juglone to leave the soil – this is especially true for wet sites or poor draining sites with heavy clay. Some people can be sensitive to juglone. Skin contact with fresh saw dust and nut hull juices may be irritating. Wear proper protection if cutting down a black walnut – breathing in fresh cut sap/saw dust may upset your respiratory system. Ingesting fresh leaves and nut hulls is not advised. While “digging deeper” on this topic, I found that there are a lot of conflicting information. It’s apparent that not much recent research has been published and a lot of the plants that are listed as tolerant of juglone are found by trial and error among gardeners. We’d love for you to share any of your observations here in the comment box of the blog post! One of the most enjoyable things about gardening is sharing amongst others! Note: There are other trees in our area that produce juglone, but to a lesser degree. Included are: butternut, English and Persian walnut, and hickories. And then shopping at Painters, we've tagged our trees and shrubs so you can refine your search with an easy sort. Go to our Tree and Shrub Availability Page and use the final column to narrow to juglone tolerant plants (or search 'Juglone' in the search bar). Then you can see exactly what we have in stock for your soil needs!

This post is otherwise known as: I Promise These Are Different: An Aster Identification Rant And Stop Calling Everything a Daisy: An Aster Deep-Dive Or-- The "Is That a Weed or a Rare Perennial?" Guide to Asters at Painters Plus, The Aster Games: May the Odds of Identification Be Ever in Your Favor A.K.A. Aster? I Hardly Know Her! A Beginner’s Guide to Aster ID at Painters (At Painters, we have such a long and multilayered relationship with asters that the titles kept coming. These might nudge you in the direction we are going here...) But first!... a short and germane anecdote: I can never once think of asters without thinking of my husband. "Faster aster," says my silly dude on every fall hike we ever embark upon. "Faster aster," he points and winks. "Faster aster," in another mnemonic tap. (It's habit now. Likely just a steady way to punctuate the walk, but, man, there sure are a lot of asters out here!) A techie who married this nature-loving Luddite, he's pretty proud of the fact that he can identify this favorite pollinator plant among the native viburnums, rhodos, and oaks on our walk. His earnest appreciation makes me smile. So, in gentleness, I haven't yet told him of the KINDS of asters. Species. Varieties. Different habits and habitats. Various leaf traits. Distinct flower bracts. No. There is no need to strip that shiny accomplishment from him just now. No need to thrust him into the Cimmerian world of convoluted plant-I.D. like the rest of us! Because at the end of the day, you don’t need a botany degree to appreciate an aster. Whether you can name an exact species on site or simply point and say “aster,” these plants deliver on almost every gardener's wishlist: want a stunning fall blooming plant? (CHECK.) Looking to support migrating butterflies and tired bees? (CHECK.) Need something that is tough, adaptable, and easy to grow? (CHECK.) These attributes apply to asters in general. Now figuring out the right aster (and matching it to its best location) is where the fun starts—and it's also where knowing your species comes in handy! Basic Aster I.D. Among common WNC asters, I find that most folks usually know a Frost Aster when they see one--who can resist its happy charm! And Heart-Leafed Wood Asters are quite unique in leaf, flower, and location. Even Calico Asters are distinct enough to have a good go at i.d. with their spectrum of color in the centers and their small flowers clustered on just the one side of horizontal stems (a.k.a. side-flowering aster). But when it comes to the most domestically grown and easily confused native stars--Aromatic, New England, and New York asters--I have to admit that I am repeatedly stumped on telling them apart! Botanists and naturalists (of which there are at Painters, but I am not one!) have ways of identifying asters based on a series of distinct attributes. And there are great resources out there for really digging in (A great one! https://namethatplant.net/keys/key_aster.shtml). I certainly will not know them all, but I have a few tricks for winnowing down the basics. So whether you're trying to figure out what's already popping up in your yard or trying to tell apart similar greenhouse finds, you won't have to memorize every attribute. Here's my quick sheet for the straight species natives: (Note: cultivars may have different heights, habits and colors than the species): Feature Aromatic Aster New England Aster New York Aster Growth Habit Low, bushy mound, almost shrub-like Tall, upright, clumping Tall, upright, spreading Average Height 1 to 3 feet 3 to 6 feet 3 to 5 feet Foliage Scent Strong, rigid balsam aroma Faintly resinous or none No distinct scent Stem & Leaf Texture Densely hairy and stiff Softly hairy and sticky Smooth and hairless Bloom Timing Very late fall Late summer to early fall Late summer to early fall Clasping Leaves Do not wrap around the stem at all Heavily clasping leaves Clasp the stem very lightly if at all Key Identifying Feature Rigid aromatic leaves, dynamic late blue-purple blooms Sticky gland-tipped hairs on flower heads, intense purple-pink rays Bright yellow disk centers, smooth stems with smooth toothless leaves Right Plant Right Place So it’s clear that “aster” isn’t one static look! And once we’ve committed to planting them, knowing which is which helps you match the right plant to YOUR space. Do you have edge gardens resembling a shady woodland floor? Or might you be looking to plant on a sun-drenched, prairie-like border? Are you searching for low mounding flowers for the edge of a walkway or six-foot-tall towers for back-of-the-bed color? Should the habit be tidy and well-behaved or will you appreciate some wilder, wandering plants to naturalize an area? Let's start with the asters we commonly carry at Painters and a few ways to find the one right for your needs. Feel free to shout “Faster Aster” whenever the mood strikes! Native Straight Species Asters Frost Aster Symphyotrichum pilosum NATIVE perennial (z4-8) full-part sun, 2-4' tall and wide White blooms late summer through fall; fine hairs covering leaves and stems give the appearance of frost, thrives in open fields and spaces where it can freely self-seed Calico Aster Symphyotrichum lateriflorum NATIVE perennial (z4-8) full sun-part shade, 2-3' tall and wide Easy care; tolerates flood and drought Named for the variety of colors displayed in the flowers' centers, ranging from yellow to purple Small flowers clustered on just the one side of horizontal stems (a.k.a. side-flowering aster) Blue Wood Aster Symphyotrichum cordifolium (Heart-Leafed) NATIVE perennial (z3-8) full sun-part shade, 3-4' tall, 1-2' wide Prefers partial shady conditions and appreciates good air circulation Great for a woodland garden or naturalized area A late-season boon for pollinators, when many other perennials are winding down New England Aster Symphyotrichum novae-angliae NATIVE perennial (z4-8) full-part sun, 3-6' tall, 2-3' wide Profuse purple blooms late summer to fall; thrives in rich, moist, well-drained soil with good air circulation Highly valuable for a vast range of wildlife, from bees and butterflies to birds and small mammals Aromatic Aster Symphyotrichum oblongifolium NATIVE perennial (z3-8) full sun, 1-3' tall and wide Fragrant blue-green foliage; It thrives in dry, rocky, or poor soils, whereas New England and New York asters prefer richer, moister ground. It is often the very last wildflower to bloom in autumn, frequently lasting well into November. Hybrids and Nativars The plants we carry will vary from season to season at Painters depending on sourcing and what we love to grow most! This list is for Fall 2026: Aster hybrid Symphyotrichum oblongifolium x novae-angliae Aster 'Thunderdome' NATIVAR perennial (z4-8) full-part sun, 3-4' tall, 2-3' wide Deep purple blooms late summer to fall provide abundant autumn beauty and food for pollinators; aromatic foliage is deer and rabbit resistant New England Aster Symphyotrichum novae-angliae 'Grape Crush' NATIVAR perennial (z3-8) full sun-part shade, 2' tall, 3' wide Rounded, mounding habit, smothered with densely packed, rich purple flowers in fall -- provides a feast for pollinators as well as a fabulously carefree end-of-season display Thrives in rich, evenly moist soil with good air circulation Drought tolerant, butterflies, cut flowers, resembles a mum, but hardy New York Aster Symphyotrichum novi-belgii 'Believer Purple' NATIVAR perennial (z3-8) full sun-part shade, 12-18'' tall and wide Sturdy, compact cultivar with cheery purple blooms late summer to fall Thrives in rich, moist soil; deer resistant, juglone tolerant New York Aster Symphyotrichum novi-belgii 'Daydream Lavender' NATIVAR perennial (z3-8) full sun-part shade, 1-2' tall and wide Sturdy, compact cultivar with pale purple blooms New York Aster Symphyotrichum novi-belgii 'Dragon Blue' NATIVAR perennial (z4-8) full sun, 12-18'' tall and wide Compact cultivar with bright purple-blue blooms New York Aster Symphyotrichum novi-belgii 'Hazy Dark Pink' NATIVAR perennial (z3-8) full sun, 12-15'' tall and wide Compact cultivar, smothered in rich pink flowers And More Ornamental Asters We carry a range of choices of beautiful and beneficial non-native asters each year. Here are a few we can't help but love: Heath Aster Symphyotrichum ericoides 'Snow Flurry' Perennial (z5-8) full-part sun, 6-8'' tall, 18-24'' wide Species native to dry prairies and roadsides of most of N. America; prostrate cultivar that forms a low, dense groundcover Smothered with tiny white flowers in fall; feeds butterflies late in the season when other blooms have faded Sky Blue Aster Symphyotrichum oolentangiense Perennial (z3-8) full sun, 2-3' tall, 1-2' wide Native to central and eastern N. America, named after the Olentangy River in Ohio where it was discovered; endangered in much of its native range due to destruction of prairies and overmowing of roadsides Pale purple-blue blooms in fall, great for pollinators Drought tolerant; must have well-drained soil to thrive Climbing Aster Ampelaster carolinianus Perennial (z6-9) full sun-part shade, 6-10' tall, 3-6' wide Native to the southeastern coastal plain, including a small part of NC; exceptionally beautiful and valuable to a wide range of wildlife Sprawling, climbing habit, ideal for a fence or arbor; smothered in lavender-pink blooms late summer to frost Remember to view our Growing and Availability Lists to see what's on deck at Painters this season! Happy hunting! or Faster Aster!

Deer munching on their favorite... hostas!! Hate to break it to ya. Deer resistant is not deer proof. No plant is deer proof. Seriously. No. plant. is. deer. proof. When hungry, they will eat anything to survive. (I'm looking at you, wintertime evergreens...) Deer will joyfully nosh on almost everything in spring when there is tender new growth. They especially relish flower buds. Over-fertilized and over-watered plants are particularly lush and appealing to deer. So what's a gardener to do?! Before you throw up your hands and pave the yard, know that there are some strategies to deter these friendly, furry plant scourge. Aroma Deer tend to avoid plants with fragrant leaves making herbs a great choice, like rosemary, sage and lavender. Flowers like salvia and peonies, which have a strong scent, are also unappealing to deer. Shrubs like Lilac Chaste Tree and Caryopteris are extremely resistant to deer and rabbits due to their fragrant blooms and foliage. We highly recommend them and consistently stock them for this reason. (Bonus - they are also great substitutes for butterfly bush - while also not native, they are not invasive, and pollinators love them!) Texture, Spines, or Fuzz Deer are not fond of the feel of mullein or lamb's ear. Deer stay away from plants that have prickly textures, such as boxwood and bearberry, or coneflowers with their hairy leaves and stems are unappealing to deer. Magnolias and Leucothoe are generally rock solid in deer deterrence because of their growth habits and leathery leaves. Find a great selection of both genera at Painters during any season. We are currently carrying Umbrella, Fraser and Sweetbay Magnolias--great native options--as well as several other super cultivars. And always popular, the natives and the varieties of Leucothoe axillaris and Leucothoe fontanesiana move quickly! Toxic plants Deer generally steer clear of toxic plants, including daffodils and bleeding heart. Yews, although toxic, are a bit more complicated. The Japanese plum yew, Cephalotaxus, is considered to be quite resistant to deer. (Although, again, if they are without options, they can eat this too!) But do not confuse a Japanese plum yew with the common yew or English yew, Taxus, which are deer magnets!! Rutgers University classified these as “frequently severely damaged” on their list of Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance. If you are looking to deter deer from your garden, opt for a plant belonging to the Cephalotaxus genus and avoid Taxus yews. Japanese Plum Yew Ferns and Grasses generally have great resistance to deer. Whether you love big statement plants like ostrich ferns or royal ferns, or you are looking for some gorgeous color with Autumn ferns or Painted ferns, you have many varieties to try. The deer generally won't! Same goes for those gorgeous grasses! Little Bluestem, Blue Fescue, Fountain Grass, Switch Grass, Northern Sea Oats, Feather Reed Grass, Pink Muhly, Big Bluestem... and the list goes on and on. Scroll all the way down to download our list of favorites! And don't forget to use tools where you can. Physical barriers are helpful. Young trees are most at risk--fencing and wire caging can help during the early growth. Similarly, vegetables, fruit trees, and bushes can be covered with netting during the growing season (this might help with more than just deer!) Or try our favorite product for deer and rabbit deterrence: Green Screen. A mixture of bone meal, blood meal, and a pepper blend, it's 100% organic and non-toxic and we find that it really works! (We don't currently have any stocked at Painters, but you can buy direct from their website if you don't find it locally.) And the Availability Lists at Painters allow you to sort for some of our most deer resistant plants. Use the search tool at the top of the chart in our Growing List or the Tree and Shrub Availability list. We've done our best to mark those with higher success. A preview of our Tree and Shrub Availability. Click to learn more! Another angle of research would be to make sure to know which plants you want to steer clear of--read up on common plants that are perfectly delicious to deer! You can anticipate some munching if you have deer neighbors and daylilies, hostas, arborvitae, strawberries, or more in your yard... download our most requested handout! And finally, in the end, take a deep breath. Give it your best shot. And know that all rules can be broken, guidelines are just guidelines, and plants are greens--which just might mean food.

The color red is associated with both positive and negative emotions. It is linked to passion and love as well as power and energy (...and sometime anger!). In any form, it elicits a strong response. And in plants, people love it or hate it. It's the color that refuses to blend in. Because it is so eye-catching, it can be used sparingly as an effective accent, or you can "paint the town red" and go all in with lots of scarlet color. Hot colors, like red or orange, are visually advancing colors, meaning they 'jump forward' and can create an appearance of looking closer than in actuality. In a large yard, plant a mass of red at the far edge of your property to visually pull the boundary in. (Pineapple sage, anyone?) Similarly, because the human eye easily locks onto red colors so easily, you have some great ways to use this. You can make it a single focal point to draw the eye exactly where you want people to look: a floral focal point! (Perfect use for the quintessential red geranium.) You could use the red as a frame for a different specimen plant. Or you could repeat the same red plant in a sweeping drift through a garden bed to guide the viewer's eye across the landscape. (Designers often recommend these rivers of color instead of scattering single plants randomly which can make the eyes jump around nervously.) How red behaves also depends on what is sitting next to it. Pair red with its complementary green color and that foliage acts as the perfect stage to make the scarlet blooms absolutely explode. Pair red with more vibrant yellows or lime greens (like a bright sweet potato vine) to create a high-energy, summery vibe that creates a pop of joy. Or for a more sophisticated match, pair red with deep purples, burgundies, and blues (i.e. trailing blue lobelia or an alternanthera) to cool down the aggressive nature of the red and create a rich color combination. And for sure, if you are wanting to view hummingbirds and pollinators from your porch, red is your cheat code. Plant native honeysuckle, beebalm, and annual sages close to windows or patios where you can enjoy the show! Whatever your design choice, make it a red-letter day! Join us at Painters and grab your favorite ruby-hued bloom. Just be careful not to fill your cart too high—you wouldn’t want to get caught red-handed taking the very last one... or would you? (As always, our inventory sells fast. Before you get your beating red heart totally set on one particular plant, check prices, sizes, and current season availability on our Growing & Availability Lists:) RED in Name Sometimes the vibrancy is so undeniable that "red" is the only word bold enough to cover it. Check out these high-energy, head-turning focal points. RED Perennials Bring that bold, scarlet energy back year after year so you can skip the replanting and get straight to the admiring. RED-ish Blooms It turns out that in the botanical world, "red" is sometime more of a vibrant suggestion than a literal description, frequently leaning into those deep magentas and punchy pinks that still pack a scarlet punch. Straight Up Red Annuals The O.G. Red Geranium is an undisputed icon but don't overlook the other scarlet stars that can bring that same heat: Punchy Alternatives Sometimes you need a blaze without screaming fire. Here are a few show-stopper alternatives that are solid standouts, without the crimson hue.

Hanging baskets are the perfect way to make the most of your space and add dimension, texture, and color to your yard, porch, or balcony. Here are some of our favorites annual hanging baskets for both sun and shade! Hanging Baskets for Sun GERANIUM A summertime staple, geraniums are versatile and heat tolerant. They have a mounding or semi-trailing habit and are available in a variety of colors. Their preferred location is morning sun and some afternoon shade - they can also thrive in full sun as long as you don't let them fully dry out. To encourage new, full blooms all summer, feed every 10-14 days and deadhead spent blooms. DRAGONWING BEGONIAS The number of begonia varieties out there is truly astounding. One of our favorite full-sun to part shade varieties is Dragonwing Begonia. One of the most popular plants for porch pots and combos, this plant also does great in a hanging basket. With blooms that will flower from spring through frost, and large glossy leaves, it’s no wonder this is a timeless classic. Dragonwing begonias are heat tolerant, can handle a few skipped days of watering, have a nice branching habit, and require no pruning or dead heading. Available in pink or red. Note: we recommend that with all begonias, you avoid watering them in the heat of the day. Water on the leaves can cause sun scorch. We water ours before 10am at the greenhouse. GIANT WAX BEGONIA - BRONZE LEAF OR GREEN LEAF Another favorite begonia, the Giant Wax Begonia, is a hybrid cross between wax and angel wing begonias. It's vigorous, bushy, and heavy-blooming. With a tidier upright habit, it makes for a fabulous 'thriller' component to a combo pot as well as making a full basket on its own. It appreciates full to partial sun and evenly moist soil, and will bloom spring through fall. Big color, big size, big impact! SCAEVOLA (FAN FLOWER) The beautiful trailing habit and abundant fan-shaped flowers of this unique plant are sure to intrigue you and your guests all summer long. Sometimes know as the 'Fairy Fan Flower' this annual will live up to its name as it spills over the side of your hanging basket. In a hot and humid climate this annual will offer blooms from early spring until first frost. Its thick stems provide an extra layer of drought tolerance making it a perfect choice for hanging baskets, which tend to dry out quicker than pots. It does not need to be pinched back, requires little in the way of fertilizing, and can bounce back from a few skipped days of watering (though it will be healthiest if watered daily in full sun spots). PETUNIAS Petunias are a timeless garden favorite, offering big impact with bright blooms in a limitless array of colors from early spring to first frost. While petunias can tolerate part sun they give off their best show in full sun with regular fertilizer. We are continually adding new cultivars to our program each year featuring a range of colors, flower sizes and habits. No variety of petunia is maintenance-free, but some do bloom better if regularly deadheaded. You can typically tell by looking at a petunia basket if it's one that will need more regular cleanup, but most petunias grown and sold today will continue to bloom regardless of deadheading. We do recommend daily watering (sometimes twice daily when hot or windy), and many petunias benefit from being pruned back when they get leggy in the heat of summer--they'll then send out fresh new growth and blooms. CALIBRACHOA (MILLION BELLS) Also known as Million Bells, Calibrachoa is a full-sun annual with a gorgeous mounding and trailing growth habit available in single or double blooming and a multitude of solid, bicolor, and ombre shades. The blooms are similar to that of its cousin, the petunia, but miniature! And what its flowers lack in size they make up for in abundance. These bright blooms also attract hummingbirds and butterflies to your front porch or garden. Like the petunia, million bells enjoy full sun to part sun, but you’ll get the most blooms in 6+ hours of full sun. Calibrachoa's flowers will go strong through the heat of summer and it does not require deadheading to look tidy or keep blooming, but it does need regular fertilizing. Keep their soil lightly moist and avoid consistently wet soil, but don't allow to fully dry out (on super hot and/or windy days, you may have to water twice). PORTULACA (MOSS ROSES) This annual flowering succulent offers some of the brightest blooms in an array of pinks, oranges, and yellows and is a great choice for someone who prefers low maintenance plants. Its flowers open and close with the sun, so be sure to keep this plant in a full sun spot to enjoy the bright pops of color that emerge anew every morning. Because it is a succulent, this plant can tolerate high heat, drought conditions, and requires less frequent watering than other annuals on this list. This low maintenance plant only requires water when the top 1/2-1" is completely dry. LANTANA Lantana is a profusely flowering plant that will provide a long-lasting show of color. Plus this beauty is a tried-and-true butterfly favorite! Versatile and easy to grow, it requires full sun (6+ hours per day) and is quite tolerant of hot and dry conditions which makes it an excellent choice for a hanging basket. Deadhead spent flowers regularly to promote new blooms, and if plants become leggy by midsummer, cut back by up to one-third. LOBELIA There truly is no blue more vibrant in the flower world than lobelia! While it's often thought to be difficult, the combination of a good cultivar (we've got you covered) and the right light and watering results in an easy-care basket with stunning blooms all season. We recommend 4-6 hours of morning sun or part shade (avoid prolonged afternoon sun), and keeping the soil lightly moist. Regular feed helps too as it does all blooming baskets. These beauties attract butterflies as well as humans! Hanging Baskets for Shade SWEDISH IVY Purple Swedish Ivy and Variegated Swedish Ivy Popular as a houseplant for years, Swedish Ivy grows well as an annual hanging basket for shady or partially shady spaces. The variegated variety has bicolored foliage, and the purple has glossy green leaves with rich purple undersides. You may find other variations in color as well but these are our favorite for growth habit. They also make great spillers for container combinations. Both purple and variegated have textured and fragrant foliage (some find the scent very strong) with small tubular blooms in optimal conditions. Swedish Ivy is easy to grow, heat tolerant, and nontoxic to pets and humans. STREPTOCARPELLA (FALSE AFRICAN VIOLET) Streptocarpella, also known as a False African Violet, or Nodding Violet, has airy, dainty blooms all season and is loved by hummingbirds and Painter's staff alike! Choose from lilac-blue or white. Streptocarpella is a beautiful, easy-care choice for part shade, filtered sun, or bright indirect light. It's also a great filler with other plants in shady combination pots or baskets. Direct hot sun, cold nights, and even cold water can cause burn on the delicate foliage so wait to put out until it's consistently above 60 degrees day and night. Then after the summer season is over, move it indoors to bright indirect light for a happy houseplant! TUBEROUS BEGONIA There are so many varieties of begonias! Fragrant Falls, Waterfall, Nonstop and many other varieties fall into the group of Tuberous Begonias. Some have large, layered, rose-like blooms and mounding habits, while others have smaller cascading blooms and more open habits--and they come in a range of bloom and leaf colors. They are another popular basket for attracting hummingbirds, and for some reason seem to be a favorite nesting site for wrens! They are a bit particular about their growing conditions--dappled sun, and bright indirect light or a touch of morning sun is best, and like Torenia, avoid letting them sit wet and avoid overcrowding them. Once you find a spot they like, you'll be hard pressed to plant anything else! TRADESCANTIA (WANDERING JEWEL) There are almost as many names as there are varieties of this shade-loving plant. Tradescantia, also commonly known as Wandering Jew, Wandering Dude, and Wandering Jewel among others, is grown as a trailing annual or houseplant. It appreciates lightly moist soil and part shade (morning sun is fine). Darker-leafed varieties can tolerate more sun and can often be grown in full sun if gradually adapted. Pinching back and pruning encourages bushier growth, or you can let them go and watch them reach 3-4' in length by fall! It's the perfect patio plant as it can be overwintered indoors to be enjoyed year after year! We've become known for our massive tradescantia baskets along with our giant ferns, and we try new varieties every chance we get! FUCHSIA Gorgeous, eye-catching blooms brighten up shady spots all season long. And with their bright colors and draping blooms, they are adored by hummingbirds! These plants thrives in consistently moist soil so keep them watered. And they bloom best with regular deadheading and feeding every couple weeks or so. CHINESE LANTERN Aka trailing abutilon or Brazilian bellflower. It can trail up to 6 feet!! The bright red-yellow drooping 'lanterns' bloom all season long, to the delight of butterflies, hummingbirds, and people alike. This plant thrives in rich, evenly moist, well-drained soil and it can handle a bit more sun, but appreciates shade. Plus, it's always a bonus when you can bring it indoors to overwinter (in bright indirect light)! NEW GUINEA IMPATIENS (INCLUDING SUNPATIENS) These hybrid impatiens enjoy part shade, and make a cheery addition to a shady porch. New Guinea impatiens are perfect for someone who likes a tidier look as they do not trail but have a nice upright, mounded habit and will fill out a basket beautifully from spring through autumn. Available at Painters in a variety of colors, you can also consider pairing them with trailing plants like Dichondra Silver Falls or Sweet Potato Vine if you do want to add some spilling plants to your basket. These easy-to-grow plants are low maintenance and require moderate watering. They do appreciate a liquid feed every two weeks or so to continue blooming prolifically. TROPICAL FERNS: BOSTON, MACHO, AND KIMBERLEY QUEEN FERNS And of course, our absolute favorites for shade, and what Painters is known for: FERNS! Read all about choosing your favorite or the best fit for your space in our Blog: Which Tropical Fern is Right for Me? As always find current prices, sizes and availability on our website: Updated from the 2022 Blog: Hanging Baskets for Sun

The grass is always greener on the other side… or is it? Most of our customers who have shady yards are desperate for more sun, and while they may not be able to grow a sunny pollinator garden, there are so many stunning textures, shapes and colors that we love for shady spaces! Ideally, we’d give you a short list of our favorites, but there are so many we love that we decided we needed two weeks to present them all! This week we are focusing on lower-growing plants, most of which put on their show in early to mid spring. Join Dana on Sunday, April 7, 2024, for our first Talk and Tour, as she takes attendees on a tour of our shade plants and discusses favorites, why she loves them, ideal growing conditions and more! LOW-GROWING SHADE PERENNIALS Christmas Fern, Polystichum acrostichoides NATIVE perennial (z3-9) part-full shade, 12-18'' tall and wide Glossy, leathery, evergreen foliage; upright, clumping habit Can tolerate dryish, rocky soils Can fade/look stressed in heat of summer or depth of cold winter, but does stay evergreen. Lungwort, Pulmonaria x 'Raspberry Splash' Perennial (z4-9) part-full shade, 12-18'' tall and wide Intensely colorful early spring blooms start out bright pink and mature to rich purple Prized for its gorgeous, mottled, semi-evergreen foliage; excellent groundcover for woodland settings Thrives in rich, moist, well-drained soil that does not dry out in hot summers; must have protection from afternoon sun GROUNDCOVERS & EDGING Japanese Forest Grass, 'All Gold' Perennial grass (z5-9) full shade-part sun, 12-18'' tall, 20-24'' wide Bright golden-chartreuse color gleams in the shade - lovely flowing texture as well Foliage turns pink-tan in fall Likes well-draining soil; great in containers *May not have this spring 2024. Siberian Bugloss, Brunnera macrophylla 'Silver Heart' & 'Alexander's Great' Perennial (z4-8) full-part shade 'Silver Heart' is 6-12'' tall & 1-2' wide, 'Alexander's Great' is 12-18'' tall & 24-30'' wide Large, silvery, heart-shaped leaves are stunning in gardens & containers Exquisite, petite, bright blue blooms early spring Remarkably tough cultivar, stands up well to heat and humidity; excellent groundcover for moist, well-drained woodland Aka false forget-me-not Wild Ginger, Asarum canadense NATIVE perennial (z4-6) full-part shade, 6-12'' tall, 12-18'' wide Cup-shaped, unique purple-brown flowers appear in spring Attractive groundcover for shady spots - glossy, low growing foliage is slow to spread Woodland Phlox, Phlox divericata 'Blue Moon', 'May Breeze' NATIVAR perennial (z3-8) part-full shade Blue Moon is 8-12'' tall & wide, May Breeze is 12-15" tall & wide Clusters of lovely fragrant blooms in spring, adored by pollinators (white or blue) Can naturalize in time, creating a beautiful woodland carpet of flowers in spring Dwarf Crested Iris, Iris cristata NATIVE perennial (z3-9) full sun-part shade, 6-9'' tall and wide Pale blue iris flowers with gold crests in spring; narrow, sword-shaped leaves Grows low and spreads rapidly, good woodland groundcover Fun fact: Irises are named for the Greek goddess of the rainbow Green and Gold, Chrysogonum virginianum NATIVE perennial (z6-8) full-part shade, 3-6'' tall, 18-24'' spread Yellow blooms April-October, with a lull during hottest months A great shade groundcover Seeds provide food for birds; one of the best performers at the WNC Arboretum Allegheny Spurge, Pachysandra procumbens NATIVE perennial (z4-9) full-part shade, 6-10'' tall, 1-2' wide Semi-evergreen, foliage emerges mottled and matures to solid green Fragrant flower spikes in spring A truly lovely native groundcover, but a slow spreader Barrenwort aka Bishop's Hat, Epimedium x perralchicum 'Fröhnleiten' Perennial (z5-9) part-full shade, 4-8'' tall, 1-2' wide A compact cultivar and one of the toughest -- makes an excellent weed-suppressing evergreen groundcover for dry shade Bright yellow flowers in spring; attractive foliage takes on bronze tones in spring and fall Drought tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans 'Chocolate Chip' Perennial (z3-10) evergreen, full-part sun, 3'' tall, 9-12'' wide Dwarf variety with smaller, deep maroon leaves Brilliant violet-blue flower stalks in spring Excellent for small spaces; doesn't spread as aggressively as species Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans 'Mahoghany' Perennial (z4-11) evergreen, full sun-part shade, 3-6'' tall, 12-18'' wide Dense, rapidly spreading groundcover Larger leaves emerge black-burgundy and mature to deep mahogany Spikes of lavender-blue blooms in spring Yellow Archangel, Lamium galeobdolon 'Hermann's Pride' Perennial (z6-10) part-full shade, 8-12 tall, 12-18 wide One of the easiest and loveliest solutions for dry shade; beautiful silver-streaked foliage Tubular butter-yellow blooms late spring Restrained mounding habit, not overly aggressive Spotted Deadnettle, Lamium maculatum 'White Nancy' Perennial (z3-8) part-full shade, 6-8'' tall, 2-3' wide Variegated silvery-white, heart-shaped leaves with green margins; beautiful groundcover White blooms spring to summer; cut back after flowering to stimulate new growth Prefers moist, well-drained soil SPRING EPHEMERALS The following ephemerals (native plants with short periods of active growth, often growing only during brief periods when conditions are favorable) put on their show in woodland habitats in early to mid spring. Plant them in part shade and lightly moist, rich soil (think forest floor) for best performance. While their show is short-lived, they're each magical in their own right and often my favorites in the garden each year. We have several other spring wildflower species as well! Native Trilliums - Trillium grandiflorum, cuneatum, erectum, luteum, recurvatum & more NATIVE perennials, hardiness range from zones 3-9, size range from 3-18'' tall & 6-12'' wide Bloom colors can be white, maroon, pale pink or yellow, and species such as T. cuneatum have lovely mottled foliage and sweet-smelling blooms. Go dormant mid-summer Mayapple, Podophyllum peltatum NATIVE perennial (z3-8) part-full shade, 12-18'' tall and wide White spring blooms hide beneath umbrella-like foliage One of the first to emerge in spring - unfurling leaves are simply magical Perfect for naturalizing in woodland areas; goes dormant in summer Jack in the Pulpit, Arisaema triphyllum NATIVE perennial (z4-9) part-full shade, 1-2' tall, 1' wide Unique dark purple and green striped spathe blooms in spring are a showstopper Goes dormant mid-summer Clump-forming habit; needs consistently moist soil Celandine Poppy, Stylophorum diphyllum NATIVE perennial (z4-9) part-full shade, 1' tall and wide Cheery yellow spring flowers atop pretty, lacy foliage - a staff favorite! Self-seeds in optimal conditions Thrives in moist woodlands and stream banks; excellent choice for native rain gardens

Ferns come in many shapes and sizes! We grow a wide selection including native and semi-evergreen perennial ferns (such as Cinnamon Ferns and Autumn Ferns), houseplant ferns (including the popular Bird's Nest Fern, Blue Star Fern, and Staghorn Fern), and tropical ferns that you typically see adorning southern porches (including Boston Ferns, Macho Ferns, and Kimberley Queen Ferns). While we grow ferns of all types, we are famous for having the largest, healthiest, and most affordable tropical ferns around - let's talk more about them! WHAT IS A TROPICAL FERN? Technically a tropical fern is any fern that will not survive the winter outdoors in your climate. Ferns grown as houseplants are often tropical ferns, but for the sake of this article, we are using the term 'tropical fern' to talk specifically about three varieties commonly used outdoors in our warmer months: Boston Ferns, Macho Ferns, and Kimberley Queen Ferns. What makes these ferns special? All three LOVE humidity, can grow to immense size, and thrive outside on a covered patio/porch in warmer months. These varieties can be brought indoors over winter, but some do better than others (more info below). What else sets them apart? We spend 6+ months growing these ferns from tiny plugs into giant statement pieces to have them ready for customers each spring! You may be surprised to learn that our production team starts the process in July when they transplant almost 5,000 1-inch baby ferns! There is something special about being involved in each step of the growing process--we can tell you everything that has touched these ferns, can guarantee they were grown with love, plus, locally grown means a smaller carbon footprint (no transporting fully grown plants). Though getting thousands of ferns to maturity and hanging from the greenhouse ceiling is no easy feat! But how do you know which tropical fern is right for me? WHICH TROPICAL FERN TO CHOOSE? BOSTON FERNS Common Names: Boston Fern Scientific Name: Nephrolepis exaltata Mature Size: 2 to 3 feet tall and wide Sun Exposure: Partial shade/dappled shade Soil Type: Moist, well-drained Hardiness Zone: 10 to 12 (USDA) Native Area: Americas, Africa, Polynesia These are by far our most popular ferns and what we have become known for! If you've ever seen a photo from Painters Greenhouse with endless rows of ferns on the ceiling, you are most likely looking at Boston Ferns - we grow over 4,000 of them each year! When you think of hanging porch ferns, these are probably what comes to mind. They like to remain evenly moist, cannot tolerate direct sun but do well in medium/bright indirect light, can grow 2-3 wide, and while they have been used in decor since Victorian times, their tendency to shed means we prefer to keep them on the porch during the warmer months and treat them as annuals rather than bringing them inside. These ferns are well suited to hanging baskets and plant stands; their bushy nature and the gentle 'weep' of their fronds will eventually envelop their container. Don't be fooled, this variety of fern is not native to Boston. It is native to tropical regions of South America, Mexico, Africa, and Polynesia. Thriving in humid forests and swamps, it definitely would not survive a snowy New England winter! MACHO FERNS Common Name: Macho Fern, Broad Sword Fern Scientific Name: Nephrolepis biserrata Mature Size: 3-4 ft. tall/long, up to 6 ft. wide Sun Exposure: Partial sun to shade Soil Type: Moist but well-draining Hardiness Zones: 9a-10b Native Area: Florida The name says it all! These big guys like bright morning light and can grow up to 4 ft long and 5-6ft wide! Their fronds have a thicker, leathery appearance and glossy shine, which combined with their size make quite the statement. Compared to a Boston Fern whose smaller leaflets have a shaggy appearance and serrated edges, Macho Fern leaflets are smoother, shinier, and do not have serrated edges. They can also tolerate more sun than a Boston Fern (but still do not like direct, intense sun). They are slightly less likely to shed but still may be tough to overwinter in your house without supplemental humidity. KIMBERLEY QUEEN FERNS Common Names: Kimberley Queen Fern, Kimberly Queen, Kim Queen Fern Scientific Name: Nephrolepis obliterata Mature Size: 2–3 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide Sun Exposure: Sun to part shade Soil Type: Moist, well-drained Hardiness Zones: 9–11 (USDA) Native Area: Australia This fern has more of an upright growth habit and is especially well-suited to porch pots. Out of the three ferns, this is the best choice for an indoor fern, as it sheds little and will over-winter nicely indoors. Additionally, Kimberley Queen ferns can tolerate the most light of those listed (and also survive in very low light!). Kimberley Queen Ferns have more rigid, upright fronds and are perfect in pots flanking a pathway or entrance. CHOOSING THE RIGHT FERN BASED ON LIGHT SHADE TO PART SUN: Boston Ferns PART SHADE TO PART SUN: Macho Ferns PART SUN TO SUN: Kimberley Queen Ferns TIPS FOR GROWING FERNS ROTATE: Whether your fern is hanging on your porch or sitting in a porch pot, it is a good idea to rotate it occasionally. This provides all parts of the plant with equal sun and encourages even growth all around the plant. FERTILIZE: Fertilize your fern once a month throughout the spring, summer, and into the early fall. We like a water-soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. WATER REGULARLY: No fern likes to dry out completely. If your fern is in a hanging basket, remember that baskets tend to dry out more quickly and will therefore need more frequent watering. Our giant ferns are gorgeous, but do typically need daily deep watering to maintain all of that foliage! TEMPERATURE: Watch those nighttime temps! Folks are often itching to purchase their ferns in the springtime before they are ready to live outside on the porch. A good rule of thumb is to wait until it is at least 50 degrees at night before letting them stay out. OVER-WINTERING: Location, humidity, and water are essential for an attempt at overwintering. Remember that even a dormant fern likes moisture, and a heated home can dry out a plant quickly. Give your plant a good soaking in the shower a few times throughout the winter months and consider adding more humidity to the environment with a humidifier. You can also cut back your fern to limit shedding. Find Prices, Sizes, and Availability on our Website. And don't forget to check out our Houseplant Availability to see which reliable houseplant ferns we are carrying right now.

I can’t think of anything more delightful than the taste of summer. And to me this is thick slabs of sliced tomato with a generous chiffonade of fresh basil. My mouth is watering just thinking of it! Often when we are referring to basil, we are referring to its use in western culinary tradition–maybe sweet basil or Genovese basil–but there are so many more varieties to choose from! Each year Painters grows a broad selection. Don’t miss trying a new variety. Ocimum basilicum is an annual herb of the mint family Lamiaceae that is grown for its aromatic leaves. Across many cuisines and cultures (think Italian, Thai, Indonesian, or Vietnamese), the leaves are used fresh or dried to flavor vegetables, sauces, meats, and fish. It can be brewed into tea or used in cocktails or other cool drinks. Because the aromatic compounds vary widely with each cultivar, each of the various basils have distinct scents and flavors. Experiment with new varieties of basil to SPICE up your kitchen! Maybe try a Lemon Basil beverage or cocktail. Make a Red Rubin Basil-infused vinaigrette or Cinnamon Basil shortbread. Whip up a batch of your favorite pesto from the copious leaves of Pesto Perpetuo (or read all the way to the end to find Painter's famous Pesto Recipe)! Beyond the kitchen, basil can also be used medicinally*. All varieties of basil contain vitamins and minerals, as well as antioxidants within the fresh leaves and the essential oils. Holy basil (or tulsi) has been used therapeutically in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries for its anti-inflammatory properties and to reduce stress. Basil essential oil has been shown to reduce the symptoms of migraines. And of course, beyond consumption, many varieties of basil are renowned for their gorgeous foliage or their attractiveness to pollinators! Pesto Perpetuo's variegated leaves add a bright filler in a garden space, and Purple Ruffles Basil's frilly, deep purple leaves give a nice contrast. Siam Queen Basil’s violet-pink blooms are great for pollinators or, my favorite, African Blue Basil is loved for its hardiness and long lasting color (the flowers and the foliage) and will attract bees and butterflies all summer. When growing basil, remember that all basils are very sensitive to frost, so plant in the ground after the last spring frost date. They are best grown in full sun in moderately rich and well-drained soil and require consistent and regular moisture throughout the growing season. While generally basils thrive in warm, sunny sites, some varieties have more tolerance for a bit of afternoon shade. And in our region, do watch out for blight and downy mildew as basils grown in humidity are susceptible to these conditions. Give them plenty of space to air out! *When using herbal medicine, it is important to make informed decisions. Consult your trusted healthcare provider to help review and individualize your use to be sure it is safe and supports your health needs. Varieties of Basil Available at Painters for 2024 Sweet Basil Ocimum basilicum Annual, full sun, 2' tall and wide One of the most popular culinary herbs with marvelously fragrant leaves -- the quintessential scent of summer! Reliable and easy; loves warm, sunny weather and regular watering Pinch back flower buds for continued leaf growth Cinnamon Basil Ocimum basilicum 'Cinnamon' Annual herb, full sun, 18-30'' tall, 12-18'' wide Cinnamon-scented leaves Purple stems, small purple blooms in summer; suitable for container growing Often used in Mexican cuisine; delicious in tea, salads, and cocktails (try it in place of mint -- yummm) Everleaf Basil Ocimum basilicum 'Everleaf Genovese' Annual herb, full sun, 1-2' tall and wide Compact and extremely high-yielding, with large, full, aromatic leaves Slow to flower, disease resistant Robust flavor, perfect for pesto Siam Queen (Thai) Basil Ociumum basilicum 'Siam Queen' Annual, full sun, 2-3' tall and wide Heirloom variety native to southeast Asia with a rich licorice aroma and distinctive flavor Perfect for soups, stir-fries, and spicy Thai cuisine Highly ornamental purple-red stems and violet-pink blooms Red Rubin Basil Ocimum basilicum 'Red Rubin' Annual, full sun, 10-12'' tall, 8-10'' wide Compact, dark-leafed variety that combines ornamental appeal and intense, spicy flavor Striking container or accent plant; excellent for garnishing or flavoring vinegars and oils Sweet Italian Large Leaf Basil Ocimum basilicum 'Sweet Italian Large Leaf' Annual, full sun, 12-15'' tall, 10'' wide Marvelously fragrant leaves up to 4'' long One of the most popular culinary herbs, and the basil of choice for all manner of Italian recipes Reliable and easy; pinch back flower buds for continued leaf growth Tuscany (Lettuce-Leaf) Basil Ocimum basilicum 'Tuscany' Annual herb, full sun, 12-16'' tall and wide Lettuce-leaf variety with very large (3-5'') ruffled leaves Delicious mild basil-anise flavor Large leaves are excellent for salads or wraps Appreciates rich, moist soil Lemon Basil Ocimum basilicum x 'Lemon' Annual herb, full sun, 1-2' tall and wide Refreshing, sweet lemony aroma and flavor -- a delicious finishing touch for countless beverages and dishes Attractive spikes of small, white, fragrant flowers in summer Thrives in rich, well-drained soil with regular, generous watering Note: The next three are similar species within the same genus as other basils and may be commonly called "basil", though they are not varieties of Ocimum basilicum. African Blue Basil Ocimum kilimandscharicum x basilicum Annual, full sun, 2-3' tall and wide Gorgeous, profuse spikes of purple flowers bring bees and butterflies all season Excellent cut flower; sturdy and easy to grow Sterile hybrid with a more camphoraceous taste than most basils; edible, but more highly valued as an ornamental pollinator magnet Holy (Tulsi) Basil Ocimum tenuiflorum Annual, full sun, 1-2' tall and wide Also known as Tulsi, grown as a sacred herb Leaves are strongly scented and contain high amounts of eugenol Most commonly used in teas and in Ayurvedic medicine Pesto Perpetuo Basil Ocimum x citriodorum 'Pesto Perpetuo' Annual herb, full sun, 1-2' tall and wide Non-flowering, sterile cultivar with light green foliage edged in creamy white - the only variegated basil! Produces copious amounts of small leaves for cooking Exceptional culinary and ornamental value The Original Painter’s Pesto Pesto is great served on bread, pizza, pasta, baked potatoes, seafood or poultry, veggies and more! Ingredients: 2 cloves garlic peeled 2 tablespoons pine nuts ¼ teaspoon coarse salt 3 cups/3ounces fresh basil leaves ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided ¼ cup grated parmesan cheese Wash the basil, discard the stems and dry thoroughly. In a food processor or blender, add garlic, pine nuts and salt; process for approximately 15 seconds. Add basil leaves and pulse continuously to shred the leaves. Gradually add the olive oil to create a course mash, then add the parmesan and pulse to combine. Makes approximately 1 cup. Pesto will keep for up to 4 weeks in a covered container in the refrigerator. Pour a thin film of olive oil on top of the pesto to prevent discoloration. For longer storage, do not add the parmesan cheese until ready to use.

Ficus Audrey (Banyan Fig) Ficus benghalensis 'Audrey' Bright indirect light (not tolerant of low light conditions), reaches 6-8' tall when grown indoors Prefers soil evenly, lightly moist - allow the top 2-3" to dry between watering National tree of India, considered to be less fussy than the Fiddle Leaf Fig (though we don't think the Fiddle Leaf is fussy!) Fiddle Leaf Fig Ficus lyrata Bright indirect light, height only limited by pot size (Little Sunshine matures at 3') Huge, glossy, prominently veined leaves; dramatic structural form Highly effective statement plant for that classic 1970s dream lounge vibe Water deeply once every ~10 days, allow to dry between waterings (most failures with this plant are due to too much watering, moving them too frequently, or placing them in an area where they receive continuous drafts of cool air) Painters also frequently carries cultivars such as 'Little Sunshine' Monstera deliciosa Bright indirect light, 4-6' tall and wide Time-honored classic for instant jungle atmosphere; aka Swiss cheese plant or split-leaf philodendron When in a tropical setting, produces fruit that is, indeed, deliciosa (and also a laxative) Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings -- TRIED & TRUE -- Cast Iron Plant Aspidistra elatior Low light, 10-20" tall/wide One of the toughest, easiest houseplants in the history of the world Can handle lower light than most Can go without water for record periods, but would prefer a deep watering every 2-3 weeks Pet safe Snake Plant Sansevieria trifasciata Low to bright indirect light, 8"-4' tall, 1-2' wide (depends on cultivar) Easy care, great for beginners; brings air purification and striking color to your home Allow soil to dry completely between waterings Aka mother-in-law's tongue (ouch) Hoya (Wax Plant) H. krohniana, carnosa, pubicalyx, curtisii, shepherdii, crassiopetiolata... Bright indirect light, climbing or trailing Waxy, glossy foliage; fragrant red-purple flowers bloom when conditions are ideal Appreciates warmth and humidity; allow soil to dry between waterings Pet safe Silver Squill Ledebouria socialis Part shade, 6-10" tall/wide Delicate pinkish white flower stalks are sporadic, resemble tiny orchids A unique and contrasting foliage that takes mid-light levels Allow top inch of soil to dry between waterings Angelwing Begonia Bright indirect light, 2-4' tall and wide depending on variety Easy care; allow soil to dry between waterings Loves humidity Toxic to pets so keep it away from those who love to munch! Angelwing 'Looking Glass' Angelwing 'Sophia' Angelwing 'Polka Dot' Angelwing 'Torch Pink' Blue Star Fern Phlebodium aureum Medium to bright indirect light, 2-3' tall and wide Epiphyte (grows on tree trunks) native to tropical rainforests; appreciates humidity and evenly moist (not wet) soil; can be drought tolerant, especially in larger pots Benefits from bottom-watering, as surface rhizomes like to stay dry (aka prefers not to be watered excessively from above) Pet safe Arrowhead Plant Syngonium podophyllum ('Milk Confetti' is pictured) Medium to bright indirect light, climbing to 6' Responds well to pruning for a bushier habit; if not pruned, will trail out of hanging baskets or climb up supports Easy care, great for beginners; allow soil to partially dry between waterings Aka Arrowhead Vine Grey Star Ctenanthe setosa Bright indirect light Appreciates warmth and humidity; allow top 2'' of soil to dry between waterings Aka Calathea setosa or 'Never Never plant' Just as beautiful but not as fussy as many calathea; very tolerant of missed waterings Peperomia 'Red Edge' Medium to bright indirect light, 6-12'' tall and wide Easy care, low maintenance; can thrive in fluorescent lighting Allow soil to dry between waterings; very tolerant of missed waterings Pet safe Peperomia 'Felted' Bright, direct sunlight (south or west-facing window ideal), 6-12'' tall, 12-15'' wide Heart-shaped leaves are covered in white fuzzy hairs Allow soil to dry out between waterings Also known as 'Amazon Fuzz' Pet safe Peperomia 'Raindrop' Bright, indirect light, 8-12'' tall and wide Glossy, droplet-shaped leaves are elegantly poised Likes humidity; allow soil to dry between waterings Pet safe These are by no means the only plants that thrive on neglect, but based on the experience of several Painters team members who have a 'live and let live' approach, we chose these as our strongest survivors! If you've grown some of these and have had trouble, or have heard rumors of them being challenging (such as the Fiddle Leaf Fig being a challenge), it's likely because you watered or moved them around too frequently. Give them space and let them do their thing!

We can't tell you how often we are asked for the secret to growing lavender. Many people have tried growing it time and again with minimal success, but the beautiful blooms and lovely scent convince us all to give it one more go. So, is there a secret? Sadly, no simple secret (there rarely is with plants!), but learning what this fragrant favorite wants and how to provide it is key. Here are our tried and true tips: LET'S START WITH SOIL Lavender can be planted in containers, raised beds, or directly in the ground. Because lavender is borderline cold hardy in our zone, many people prefer to plant it in the ground as the soil offers insulation and gives it a better chance of making it through the winter (though a pot with amended soil can allow for better drainage, you likely will then have to protect the pot in winter). This plant likes sandy, well-draining soil that allows it to dry out quickly. Unfortunately, the dense red clay of North Carolina does not offer the drainage lavender needs, so you are almost guaranteed to fail if you plant it in the ground without amending the site. We recommend mixing perlite (4 parts soil:1 part perlite) or gypsum (follow directions on bag) into the soil in the hole, and you may even want to replace half of the native soil with a bark-heavy well-draining soil mix in addition. You want to dig a BIG hole. Think 4x larger than the pot, or dig the hole as if you were going to put a fully mature lavender in it (each species and cultivar varies--many Spanish Lavender grow to over 2 feet wide and tall). To set yourself up for success, dig the hole 16-18" deep and fill with the amended well-draining soil until the lavender is sitting with the crown, or base of its stem, slightly above the surrounding ground. Then fill around the sides with the rest of the amended soil. This will help during rainy periods as lavender often dies due to"wet feet", so having good drainage beneath the plant is critical. Avoid adding compost as a fertilizer because it holds moisture, and make sure you space each plant well (considering mature size) to allow for good air flow. Of course, there are some exceptions to heavy clay soil in our region--a few of you may have a spot of bottomland with sandy soil and won't need to be as extreme! WHAT ABOUT SUN EXPOSURE & WATERING? Lavender requires full sun, which means 6+ hours of direct sunlight. Because lavender wants to dry out completely between waterings, if you feel any moisture in the soil, don't water. Better to error on the side of too dry than too wet. You really shouldn't need to water lavender once it is established. SHOULD I FERTILIZE? Lavender is a low feeder, but if you are growing it in a pot it will need a bit more, as nutrients wash out of potted plants quickly. If planted in the ground you will not need to do much feeding. OK, BUT WHAT DO I DO OVER THE WINTER? If you're worried about your planted lavender not making it through the winter, you can add a lightweight mulch. Be careful to leave enough room around the crown for the plant to breathe. Mulch can hold in moisture, and for lavender moisture is a bigger enemy than the cold so do so sparingly. If grown in a pot, try grouping your pots close to a building in a sunny spot and mounding leaves around them for extra insulation. SHOULD I PRUNE MY LAVENDER? The key here is to not allow your lavender to get too woody. We recommend you prune it in the late fall or very early spring, removing older branches and giving it a light shaping. If left unpruned, Spanish Lavender in particular can get very leggy, and you may be left with balder stretches of the woody stems at the base of the new growth and blooms. OK, BUT WHAT VARIETY SHOULD I CHOOSE? Every year Painters researches which lavenders do best in WNC. This research combined with our own experience and customer feedback informs the varieties we sell. Phenomenal Lavender is a tried and true choice in our region, with an excellent shape and prolific blooms. Hidcote Lavender is said to be hardier and more vigorous. Co-owner Dana loves her Spanish lavender, finding it less picky about soil and tougher in the wet and cold winters (despite a lot of sources claiming it is more tender than other species). Painters typically grows Anouk among other Spanish varieties, as it has proven to be hardier than many others we've tried. There are lots of cultivars to choose from, and it may require some trial and error to find which works best for you! Each year we grow a beautiful selection of Spanish Lavender, English Lavender, and/or French Lavenders. Read below for a few favorite varieties and growing information to help you choose the best one! 'La Diva Big Night' Spanish Lavender just beginning to bloom out Spanish Lavender 'La Diva Big Night' Lavandula stoechas 'La Diva Big Night' USDA Growing Zones: 7-9 Sun Exposure: Full sun-part sun Size: 1' tall and wide Cultivar bred to be more compact than most, ideal for containers and small spaces. Long-lasting deep purple flowers, abundantly fragrant, bloom late spring to summer; lightly shear back after initial flowering to encourage rebloom Good tolerance for drought and cold; thrives in well-drained soil Spanish Lavender 'Anouk Spanish Lavender 'Anouk' Lavandula stoechas 'Anouk' USDA Growing Zones: 6-10 Sun Exposure: Full sun 1-2' tall and wide Compact and hardy evergreen with highly aromatic silvery foliage and robust, long-lasting blooms Must have sharp-draining soil and good air circulation to thrive Drought tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant Aka butterfly lavender French Lavender 'Grosso' Lavandula x intermedia 'Grosso' USDA Growing Zones: 6-10 Sun Exposure: Full sun Size: 3' tall and wide Richly fragrant, the variety most often grown for use in perfume making Large, showy flowers attract pollinators all summer; beautiful in cut arrangements, fresh or dried Must have sharp-draining soil to thrive Aka fat spike lavender 'Provence' Lavender. Photo credit: Hope Duckworth CC BY 4.0 Lavender 'Provence' or Provence French Lavender Lavandula x intermedia 'Provence' USDA Growing Zones: 5-8 Sun Exposure: Full sun Size: 2-3' tall and wide A top choice for humid summers, for fragrance, and for aromatic hedging; it's the next best thing to being in the South of France! Vigorous and fast growing, thrives in poor, sharp-draining soil; drought tolerant Phenomenal Lavender, Photo credit: Walters Gardens, Inc Lavender 'Phenomenal' Lavandula x intermedia 'Phenomenal' USDA Growing Zones: 5-9 Sun Exposure: Full sun Size: 2-3' tall and wide Cross between English and Portuguese lavender; exceptional in both winter hardiness and humidity tolerance Thrives in dry, poor, sharp-draining soil (good drainage is essential for winter survival) Excellent aromatic cut flower, fresh or dried English Lavender 'SuperBlue' English Lavender 'SuperBlue' Lavandula angustifolia 'SuperBlue' USDA Growing Zones: 4-9 Sun Exposure: Full sun Size: 1-2' tall and wide Large, full, deep violet-blue summer blooms, soothingly aromatic flowers and foliage Mounded, compact habit; excellent heat and humidity tolerance Thrives in sharp-draining alkaline soil English Lavender 'Hidcote Blue' Lavandula angustifolia 'Hidcote Blue' USDA Growing Zones: 4-11 Sun Exposure: Full sun Size: 12-18'' tall and wide Fragrant, deep purple flower spikes, aromatic foliage Uniform, compact, shrub-like habit; excellent cut flower Prune regularly to encourage fullness; thrives in sharp-draining, sandy, alkaline soil To see what we have in store this season, check our Growing Lists for prices, sizes and current availability: